The post 9 Tips for Beautiful Museum Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Christina N Dickson.

This article was updated in November 2023 with contributions by Kav Dadfar, Ana Mireles, and Jaymes Dempsey.

Museums offer incredible opportunities for photography; you can capture paintings, sculptures, educational displays, architecture, people interacting with exhibits, and so much more.

Unfortunately, while museum photography can look great, it’s tough to get right. Due to the large crowds, reflective glass, and low light, it’s easy to come home from a museum with a batch full of blurry, muddy, distraction-filled photos.

So how do you capture amazing photos at museums? Simply follow the nine tips I share below, which explain how to handle crowds, how to keep your shots sharp, how to deal with reflections on the glass, and so much more.

Let’s get started!

1. Check the rules

Before planning a photography trip to a museum, I highly recommend you start by checking the rules. Make sure you’re actually allowed to photograph inside the museum – not all museums are so photography-friendly! – and determine whether photography is off-limits in certain areas.

If photography is banned, you can always try contacting the museum and asking for permission, but don’t be surprised if you get rejected; photography can cause safety issues, and the flash can damage works of art, so museum staff likely won’t be so accommodating.

Note: Even if a museum does allow photography, you may not be allowed to capture commercial photos, and you may also encounter certain equipment restrictions. Tripods, for instance, are a big no-no at many museums, so make sure you read the rules carefully. You don’t want to prepare for a museum shoot, only to arrive and have your tripod confiscated.

Bottom line: Before capturing some museum photos, make sure you know what’s off-limits. The restrictions are created for a reason, so regardless of the situation, never intentionally break rules.

2. Consider what you want to convey

When it comes to museum photography, it’s easy to simply walk on through, point your camera at each exhibit, and press that shutter button. However, most folks will get bored after viewing just a few photos of a museum – so instead of trying to document everything, I encourage you to really think about what you want to convey to the viewer.

For instance, do you want to emphasize the movement and engagement that occurs inside a museum? Then use a wide-angle lens to capture the main hall with all of its hustle and bustle. Do you want to impress the viewer with the intricate details of a single artifact? Then get up close and exclude all other objects from the frame.

Every museum is different, and thinking about its key attributes can help you decide what you want to highlight. You might also consider researching the museum in advance; look to understand the architecture, the exhibits, and the overall feeling of the place, then hone in on what interests you most.

That way, instead of producing hundreds of lackluster documentary-type shots, you can come away with two or three key images that really showcase the venue and its exhibits in your own unique style.

3. Don’t forget about the building!

Museums are teeming with incredible works of art, historical pieces, and/or flashy exhibits – so it’s easy to forget that they are often housed in some of the most amazing buildings in the world. Think of the Louvre in Paris, the Natural History Museum in London, or the Guggenheim in New York, and you’ll know what I mean.

In my view, the buildings are as much a part of the experience as the attractions inside, so you should absolutely spend some time exploring the museum architecture in addition to the artifacts and exhibits. I’d recommend doing a little research on the building before you go; that way, you can note any specific elements of cultural or historical importance. These small details are often missed by people (and photographers!) who focus on the main attractions, so by seeking them out, you can capture some uniquely powerful shots.

Make sure to photograph both the museum’s interior and exterior. When working indoors, pay attention to ceilings, columns, and doorways, all of which can make for beautiful images. And when you’re photographing outdoors, try to work during the early morning or late evening, when the light is soft and golden.

You can also try photographing the museum facade after dark, which will give you the opportunity to combine a moody atmosphere with beautiful artificial lighting:

4. Take steps to eliminate reflections

Have you ever tried to photograph a museum display that’s behind glass? It’s tough. If you’re not careful, you’ll end up with reflections in your final shot, and while you can reduce these in post-processing, it’s much better to get it right in the field.

So what do you do?

First, turn off your flash. Otherwise, it’ll bounce off the glass and create an unpleasant white glow somewhere in the image.

Next, make sure you’re using a lens hood. A rubber hood is best, though you can make do with a plastic hood, too (and in a pinch, you can simply drape a coat over the front of your lens).

Finally, move your lens as close to the glass as possible. You’ll want to keep your front lens element parallel to the display, and you’ll want to keep any gap between the lens and the glass covered by the lens hood.

If you follow each of the above steps, you’ll eliminate most (or even all) reflections, and you’ll end up with images like this one here (yes, it was shot through the glass!):

5. Adjust your settings or stabilize your camera

Museum exhibits are sometimes kept dark for added ambiance or for purposes of preservation, and even when exhibits are fully lit, the artificial lighting often isn’t much compared to outdoor lighting. As a result, your museum photography will turn out unpleasantly underexposed or extremely blurry – unless you change your camera settings to compensate for the low light.

Specifically, you’ll want to switch your camera to Aperture Priority or Manual mode, then boost your ISO until you can keep your shutter speed at 1/80s or above. Yes, a high ISO will increase image noise, but most modern cameras can go up to ISO 800, ISO 1600, and beyond without significant reduction in image quality, so as long as you only raise your ISO as necessary, you should be okay. (Also, it’s better to capture a noisy image than a blurry one!)

As I noted above, you’ll want to keep your shutter speed at 1/80s or above – otherwise, your images will likely turn out consistently soft – but you’ll need to take steps to keep your body stabilized. While 1/80s is fast enough for sharp handholding when using a wider lens, it’s important to use proper technique (hold in your elbows, cup your lens with one hand, keep your camera close to your face, etc.).

That said, if the museum does allow tripods, then I encourage you to use one! You can also try resting your camera on a table or a bench, which is another great way to capture sharp shots while using ultra-low shutter speeds.

6. Try to get creative

Museums aren’t exactly new, and museum photography has been going on for decades – so it’s your job, as a photographer, to showcase what people have seen and captured a thousand times from a new perspective.

How can you do this? I’d start by adjusting your viewpoint. See if you can photograph an exhibit or hall from high up (by shooting from a balcony) or from low down (by kneeling down and shooting upward with a wide-angle lens).

I’d also encourage you to look for the little details: shadows, reflections, and even moments of interaction between the visitors and the artifacts. Small details often go unnoticed, yet they can be full of meaning and beauty.

Finally, you can try out various creative techniques. If tripods are allowed in the building, try to capture a long-exposure photo that hints at the movement of the museum’s visitors. If the museum is full of artifacts, try to use shooting-through composition techniques (where you position an out-of-focus element in the image foreground) to give the viewer a sense of immersion within the scene. Make sense?

7. Choose your composition carefully

When photographing art or an artifact in a museum, don’t try to just reproduce it; if all you want is a record shot, it’s generally just better to buy the postcard or the catalog.

Instead, think about what the piece is transmitting to you. Consider going wide: show the architecture of the gallery, make it interact with the other pieces of the exhibition, and try to capture the ambiance.

In other words, make it your own. Notice how in this next example, I didn’t photograph any specific artwork, just the space and the atmosphere:

8. Avoid crowds with research and patience

As any museum photographer knows, one of the main issues when capturing images of exhibits and halls is the crowds.

After all, museums are designed as tourist destinations, and as such, they’re often very busy. Try to capture a photo of a famous sculpture, and you’ll generally end up with dozens of people fragmented throughout the frame.

Fortunately, I have a few handy tips to prevent crowds from encroaching on your shots:

First, head to the museum on days and times when things are quieter. If you attend during the week and take care to avoid school vacations, you can often avoid visitors. And if you come early in the morning, you may get whole rooms to yourself! You might also try heading to the museum between around 11 and 2, as many tour groups eat lunch during these times. (Locals can sometimes offer this kind of insight.)

Second, spend some time photographing the less-popular portions of the museum – the back rooms, the permanent third-floor exhibits, etc. These areas are often quieter, but that doesn’t mean they’re any less worthy of photos!

Third, if you find an area you desperately want to photograph but you can’t seem to shake the tourists, just take a breath. Even in the busiest of venues, if you wait long enough, you’ll eventually find a gap in the flow of traffic. You’ll ultimately capture the shot you want, but you’ll need to give yourself plenty of time; patience is key!

Fourth, don’t be afraid to include people in your photo. Just be sure to wait until the right moment so that they complement your image!

9. Keep copyright considerations in mind

Last but not least, there is something that you won’t see on the museum signs, but it exists and it’s very important: the issue of copyright.

While getting inspiration from others is great, remember that you are photographing the work of a fellow artist, so it is covered by copyright. This can apply to artwork being exhibited as well as to the architecture of the museum, so it can be a very complicated issue to understand.

I encourage you to inform yourself in greater depth. A general rule of thumb is that you can’t use an image for commercial purposes without permission from the creator. And if you’re using the image for educational purposes, you should always give credit to the creator. Let’s be respectful of one another!

Museum photography tips: final words

Museums are often beautiful and are certainly key sights in most areas, so they should be on every photographer’s shot list.

And while museum photography can be tough for beginners, just remember the tips I’ve shared, approach each new museum carefully, and stay creative. You’re bound to capture some amazing photos!

Now over to you:

What museums do you plan to photograph? Which of these tips will you use? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post 9 Tips for Beautiful Museum Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Christina N Dickson.

The post Negative Space in Photography: The Essential Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Peter.

This article was updated in November 2023 with the contributions of five expert photographers: Sandra Roussy, Meredith Clark, James Brandon, Andrew S Gibson, and Jaymes Dempsey.

What is negative space in photography, and how can you use it for beautiful compositions?

The term negative space may sound strange, but it’s actually an essential component of almost every great image. In fact, if you want to create gorgeous photos, you must master negative space; that way, you can take shots that feature balanced, harmonious, eye-catching arrangements. (You can also capture wonderfully minimalistic compositions, as I discuss down below.)

In this article, I’ll explain everything you need to know about negative space, including:

• What negative space actually is
• Why negative space is important
• Simple tips and tricks to use negative space in your images, whether you shoot landscapes, portraits, street scenes, or architecture

Ready to become a compositional master? Then let’s get started.

What is negative space?

The negative space of an image is anything other than the subject. It’s the foreground, the background, and the visual “breathing room” all around the scene.

Check out this next image, where the foggy sky and the empty water act as negative space:

In photography, negative space is often made up of certain elements:

• Water
• Sky
• Walls
• Sand

Note that all of these elements tend to fade easily into the background, and that’s why they make such great negative space. An empty sky does not draw the eye, any more than a blank white wall, a stretch of empty sand, and so on.

Now, some photos are full of negative space. These compositions are often very abstract, such as a stretch of empty blue sky, or a sand dune stretching off in every direction. Such negative-space-centric compositions can also be minimalistic, with a single eye-catching element surrounded by emptiness.

Other photos, however, feature plenty of non-negative space, also known as positive space:

Positive space versus negative space

Positive space is the complete opposite of negative space. Negative space rejects the eye, while positive space steals the spotlight. You see, positive space is the area of a photo that includes elements of interest, the area that includes the main subject, the area where the viewer’s eye goes first.

In the photo below, there is plenty of positive space but very little negative space. The flag, the buildings, and the trees all act as positive space. Even the clouds provide some positive space thanks to their interesting arrangement and texture. The biggest patch of negative space is the sky, which takes up a tiny portion of the shot.

Now, positive space can be anything, but here are some common examples:

• Faces
• People
• Buildings
• Birds
• Wildlife
• Mountains

So which is better, positive or negative space?

Neither.

In photography, the goal is to combine both types of space to create a balanced composition. You want negative space, yes, but you also want positive space. That’s how you can get consistently stunning photos!

Negative space and minimalism

Technically, negative space is present in nearly every image, even if the compositions are chaotic, messy, and otherwise overwhelming. But when you think of negative space, you might associate it with minimalism. Why?

Minimalism in photography heavily emphasizes negative space to create a tranquil effect. This type of image uses lots of negative space to give the viewer plenty of room to breathe and focus on the subject.

Think of a lone tree or a solitary figure in a field, surrounded by emptiness. It makes for an eye-catching composition, and that’s primarily due to the power of negative space!

But there’s an essential point that I want to emphasize: Not all images with negative space are minimalistic. Minimalism uses negative space in a unique way, and you can go for striking results by taking a minimalistic approach, but you don’t have to. You can always compose with a balanced combination of positive and negative space for a different effect.

The best genres for negative space photography

Negative space isn’t confined to a single genre. In fact, you can apply this concept across various types of photography.

Take landscape shooting, for instance. The wide expanses of sky, beach, mountains, and desert often lend themselves to heavy use of negative space. And this allows the main subject, such as a mountain or a tree, to truly stand out.

Here’s an example of a landscape photo that uses negative space in the composition. It works because the blue and orange colors in the sky add atmosphere and mood:

Travel photography also benefits from negative space. Imagine a road stretching through an empty landscape, or a person standing at the edge of a lake; the results are meaningful and striking at the same time.

Even certain forms of street photography can look great with lots of negative space. A lone figure crossing a wide-open plaza can speak volumes about urban life and isolation.

On the flip side, portrait photography, event photography, documentary photography, and sports photography often focus more on positive space. The aim here is to convey information about a person, setting, or story, and positive space generally communicates more details.

But don’t let that limit you! If you feel inspired to shoot documentary images with lots of negative space, go for it. Creativity knows no boundaries, and it’s always refreshing to try new approaches.

The genres and ideas I shared above are merely suggestions. The beauty of photography lies in personal interpretation and experimentation. Dive into different subjects and see how negative space can enhance your style.

Negative space in portrait photography

While negative space is often ignored when discussing portrait photography – as I mentioned above, positive space is discussed more frequently here – it’s actually an essential aspect of good portrait photos.

How does negative space work with portraiture?

In portraiture, negative space is the area around the main subject of your photograph. The portrait below has negative space – it is the dark area around the model. I’ve highlighted it below in green so you can see exactly what I mean:

There’s a quote in photography attributed to photojournalist Robert Capa: “If your photographs aren’t good enough, you’re not close enough.”

A lot of the time, that’s good advice – many portraits can be improved by getting in closer to the subject, either physically or with a longer lens, so the model dominates the frame. When it comes to photographing people, it also helps to get closer emotionally to your models, by establishing a rapport or connection that enables you to take deeper, more insightful portraits.

But there are also times when the environment around your model can contribute to the composition. Sometimes the subject needs room to breathe. This is when you can create an interesting image by backing off and including more negative space.

There is nothing to stop you from getting in close to your model and making a portrait, and then stepping away and including more of the environment to make use of the negative space. This is called working the subject and is the process of exploring the photographic possibilities by varying focal length, shooting distance, and other factors.

In addition to making the portrait above, I also got in close during our shoot. Here’s a close-up portrait, side-by-side with the first so you can see the difference. See how the close-up also uses negative space, just in a different way:

Please note there is no right or wrong here, no simple rule to tell you what to do. You have to take each situation on its merits and find the best way to make a good portrait of your model. But it always helps if you keep the composition as simple as possible. In the examples here, the negative space is empty. There is detail if you look closely, but nothing to distract attention away from the model.

Why does negative space matter in photos of people?

Now that you know how to create images of people that utilize negative space, it’s also helpful to understand why negative space images are important and why you should consider incorporating at least a few into every photo session.

1. It helps emphasize scale

Using negative space when you’re photographing people can help to emphasize the size of the person you’re photographing. For example, if you’re photographing a newborn and fill the frame in every image you take, you may have missed the ability to convey just how small newborn babies are relative to their surroundings.

By including varying degrees of negative space in your images, you will be better equipped to emphasize the scale of a newborn. Similarly, you could also consider using negative space images to convey how small a bride and groom are compared to the vast beach they were married on.

2. It gives your clients options

If any part of your business plan includes offering digital images to your clients, keep in mind that many of your clients will want to post the images you’ve taken on social media. Many of the popular social media platforms are not very conducive to typical “fill the frame” portraits, forcing your client to either cut off the top of their head or cut off their shoulders (leaving them looking rather like a floating head as above).

Similarly, if a client requests a certain image printed on a canvas, images with negative space allow you to accommodate that request without worrying about part of the image getting cut off by the gallery wrap. By including negative space in a few images, you’ll be giving your clients more options and less frustration!

3. It gives you options

Not only do images with negative space give your clients flexibility, but they give you additional flexibility as the photographer.

Want to submit your image for the cover of a local magazine? Many editors want images with plenty of negative space to accommodate headline text. Want to start offering a Christmas card design to your clients? Negative space images help make that easier. Want to advertise mini sessions on Facebook? Try placing the text in the negative space of one of your favorite images.

Making an effort to utilize negative space every time you photograph people will give you more ways to use your images!

Negative space photography tips and tricks

Hopefully, you now feel ready to capture some negative space images of your own. To that end, here are my favorite tips and techniques for working with negative space:

1. Let the scene dictate your negative space and positive space combination

Every scene has a different ratio of negative space to positive space.

And while you, as the photographer, can zoom in, change perspective, and crop to emphasize certain parts of the scene, you need to be flexible; you need to be able to embrace a scene that’s full of negative space, just the same as you embrace a scene filled with positive space.

So don’t try to force a scene in a certain direction. Instead, ask yourself: What is the scene already like? And work with what you’ve got.

For example, a few years ago, I stood at a popular lookout, observing an iconic rock sitting in the Atlantic Ocean in Eastern Canada. It was early morning and some fog had rolled in, covering most of the impressive structure. The woman standing next to me turned to me and said, “It’s so sad, we’re driving by today, and I wanted to get a photo of the Percé Rock. But due to the fog, it seems it won’t be possible.”

She left, disappointed that she didn’t get her shot. But I stayed, and I stood for a long time, examining the fog and the way it draped the rock like a heavy blanket. I thought it was one of the most amazing things to happen that day. I felt so lucky to be there at that exact moment to capture the wonder unfolding. I embraced the negative space, and I captured a beautiful, minimalistic image.

Bottom line:

Be adaptable. Be flexible. If negative space dominates a scene, let it, even if you generally prefer to avoid minimalistic compositions. Make sense?

2. Use negative space to balance out positive space

A key goal of photographic composition is to achieve visual balance. You want your images to feel whole, complete, satisfying.

And one way to achieve balance is by identifying your positive space, then countering it with negative space.

For instance, look at the image below. You can see the positive space – the clenched fist. It’s a powerful, eye-catching subject, but it’s countered by all the surrounding negative space. It creates an overall balance, as you can see:

By the way, it’s important to recognize how lots of negative space can balance out just a little positive space. Positive space is aggressive and powerful. Negative space is much more subdued, even soothing. So unless you’re specifically after a very in-your-face image, positive space should come in small doses.

Some photographers practice a “2:1” negative space rule, where you add two parts negative space for every one part positive space. I don’t like to restrict myself in this way, but it’s a good guideline to bear in mind.

3. Experiment with minimalism

As I explained above, minimalistic compositions use negative space to great effect. They’re all about negative space; they take lots of negative space, include a touch of positive space, and create an eye-catching result.

Here’s an example of a minimalist image, where the shadow acts as positive space, while the bricks provide some empty negative space:

If you like the minimalistic look, I highly recommend you try it out. It’s pretty simple to pull off.

Here are my recommendations:

1. Start by identifying a main subject, like a tree, a person, or a building. This will be your positive space.
2. Adjust your positive, focal length, and camera angle until your main subject is all alone, surrounded by nothing but negative space. (A low perspective is great for this; by dropping down to the ground, you can frame your subject against the sky.)
3. Eliminate as much color as possible. You want uniformity, if you can get it: just one or two colors in a highly harmonious scene.
4. Position your main subject toward the edge of the composition. You can try putting the subject at a rule of thirds power point or along a gridline, but you might also consider moving it closer to the edge of the frame.

The tree photo below is highly minimalistic. It includes a small tree positioned in the corner as positive space, while the rest of the photo is (for the most part) negative space, for a nice overall balance.

4. Use negative space to convey emotion

Negative space tends to be bleak, even melancholy, especially in black and white images.

Use this fact. Tell a story with your composition – a story that’s laced with sadness, or loneliness, or quiet pleasure.

Of course, you should let the scene guide you, as I emphasized above. But you can also carefully add more negative space to your composition by zooming out, or by finding a uniquely empty background, etc.

Check out this negative-space-filled image. Is it full of emotion?

Yes, it’s an emotional shot, at least to my eye. The empty sky, sprinkled with a bit of positive space, tells a captivating, haunting story.

5. Look to the sky

Finding lots of negative space in a scene can sometimes be a challenge. But if you feel your composition lacks negative space, you might just need to look up.

The sky, with its generally flat appearance, provides an excellent canvas for negative space, and it can certainly help push the viewer’s attention toward your subject. In other words, the sky isn’t intrusive or distracting; it’s just there, and it can effectively balance out the positive space in your compositions.

How do you bring more sky into your shot? Try changing your angle. Get down low. Aim your camera upward. Suddenly, the sky becomes a major part of your composition, and an ordinary snapshot becomes something far more interesting.

This technique can turn a crowded, messy street scene into a calm, serene image, and it can make a flower in a field seem profound and significant. So next time you’re struggling with negative space, remember to look to the sky. It’s always there, just waiting to help you create that perfect photograph.

6. Try a black-and-white conversion

Did you know that black-and-white tones can transform your images? It’s true! A black-and-white conversion can take what counts as positive space and turn it into negative space.

You see, when you work with colors, certain areas feature a variety of hues, which generally ensures they appear as positive space. But strip away those colors, and suddenly, you’re left with a lot of near-identical grays – and an abundance of negative space.

In other words, by converting a shot to black and white, distracting colors vanish. This can turn a once chaotic area into a serene negative space, adding a whole new layer of elegance to your image.

Of course, this technique doesn’t work every time. It depends on the existing tones in the photograph. But when it does work, the results can be breathtaking. Minimalistic black-and-white images, brimming with negative space, have a timeless appeal that’s hard to resist.

7. Eliminate distractions

Imagine capturing a perfect scene, only to notice a stray object in the background later.

Distractions can ruin a composition. They draw attention away from the subject and clutter the image, leaving the viewer’s eye confused and wandering. In negative space photography, this can be especially detrimental.

You see, distractions always add positive space to an image. They interrupt the emphasis on the subject that negative space aims to create. Whether you’re going for a minimalistic image or a balanced composition, distractions can throw everything off-kilter.

Before you press that shutter button, take a moment to scan the entire frame. Look for anything that doesn’t belong and adjust your composition to exclude it. This might mean changing your angle, repositioning your camera, or waiting for the right moment. With a distraction-free frame, you’ll be more likely to achieve that perfect harmony between positive and negative space.

8. Go wide

Ever felt constrained by your lens?

Wide-angle lenses open up a new world of possibilities. They expand your field of view, allowing you to include vast backgrounds filled with negative space. Imagine a landscape with a lone tree, backed by a seemingly endless sky. Or imagine a few flowers in a field, backed by a stretch of grass that goes on forever. That’s what a wide-angle perspective can capture.

But what if you don’t have a wide-angle lens? Don’t worry; you can still capture the same effect. Simply take some steps back, find a new vantage point, and shoot from there. It might take a bit of trial and error, but with some patience, you’ll find the right spot.

Wide-angle or not, going wide with negative space can lend your images a sense of grandeur and simplicity. It’ll emphasize the subject while creating a wonderful sense of scale.

9. Share your photos on Instagram

Sharing your work is a rewarding part of the creative process, and I think that Instagram is an excellent platform for showcasing negative space photography.

Why does negative space work so well on Instagram?

Well, the simplicity of negative space captures the viewer’s attention. Instagram, being a platform generally viewed on phones, presents images briefly as users scroll through their feeds. Photos that have lots of negative space are simpler to process, allowing even a casual viewer to be stunned by the thumbnail-sized file.

Basically, negative space adds an artistic touch that stands out in the fast-paced world of social media. Your followers will appreciate the ease with which they can understand and connect with the image.

And consider using specific hashtags that cater to negative space and minimalism. Engage with communities that appreciate this style. You’ll be surprised at the connections you can make and the feedback you can gain!

Negative space photography: final words

Photography is a world filled with endless possibilities, and negative space is one powerful tool in your creative arsenal. By now, you should have a rich understanding of what negative space is and how it can be applied across various genres of photography.

Remember, negative space isn’t limited to minimalistic shots. It’s a way to direct the viewer’s attention, create harmony, and even tell a deeper story within your images. Whether you’re capturing breathtaking landscapes, engaging street scenes, or intimate portraits, negative space can be a subtle yet profound element to explore.

I encourage you to consider this the next time you go out shooting. Incorporating negative space into your images can be very rewarding, though it can also be quite challenging. Sometimes situations will present themselves where a solid approach is clear. Other times you will have to get creative with a subject to find the proper framing to create an image with lots of negative space.

Don’t be afraid to share your work on platforms like Instagram, where your negative space photography can resonate with viewers. From landscapes to street photography, negative space has its place, and even in genres that focus more on positive space, there’s room for experimentation.

So remember this article. Memorize the advice. And good luck!

Now over to you:

What do you think about negative space? Do you plan to use it in your images? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Negative Space in Photography: The Essential Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Peter.

The post 8 Tips for Beautiful Impressionist Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Peter.

A note on authorship: This article was updated in November 2023 with the contributions of three expert impressionist photographers: Eva Polak, Anne McKinnell, and Erin Fitzgibbon.

Unlike conventional photography – which focuses on capturing crisp and detailed images – impressionist photography challenges us to see the world through a different lens, one that is less concerned with sharpness and more with the emotional and visual impact. Impressionist photos aren’t just about what is directly in front of the camera, but about the story you choose to tell through colors, shapes, and even blur.

I love capturing impressionistic shots, and in this article, I share the techniques that’ll allow you to paint with your camera – so you can create the kind of artwork that resonates deep down. My methods encourage you to embrace movement, play with focus, and celebrate abstraction.

So whether you’re a seasoned photographer looking to break the mold or a beginner eager to explore, prepare to capture some amazing images!

What is impressionist photography?

Impressionist photography is a style where the photographer tries to convey the feeling or suggestion of a scene, rather than a literal description. In other words, it’s about capturing a scene’s overall atmosphere by presenting the essence of a subject through shapes and colors rather than sharp, realistic representations.

In impressionist and abstract photography, the focus is on eliciting emotion through the interplay of texture, form, and color. This style encourages the use of vibrant hues, distinct shapes, and lines to craft visually stimulating compositions.

Imagine briefly observing a scene and then turning away before your eyes can fully comprehend the details. What remains is a vague memory of colors and forms, a distilled essence of the original scene – and that is what impressionist photography is all about.

Tips for amazing impressionist images

Ready to start capturing some stunning impressionist photos of your own? Here are the tips and techniques to get you started!

1. Look for shapes, patterns and textures

As you go about your daily activities, notice the shapes around you. Even a standard house or apartment is full of interesting shapes, patterns, and textures that can be used to make impressionist photos.

Look closely at different objects around you and consider whether there are any reoccurring shapes or themes. Then use them to your advantage.

Lines, for instance, can be used very effectively in a photograph, as the eye will tend to follow them through the shot. Look at the undulating pattern the wave makes as it comes to shore:

And if you like to walk in the city, look for patterns formed by the buildings.

Basically, the more interplay of form you can find, the better!

2. Use intentional camera movement

Intentional camera movement is an excellent technique for creating impressionist landscape photography, especially when you’re faced with prominent lines, such as the horizontal expanse of a beach or tall trees in a forest.

The method requires practice to master, but the process is part of the creative enjoyment, and each shot is practically guaranteed to produce unique results. Here’s what I recommend:

1. Set your camera to Shutter Priority mode.
2. Select a slow shutter speed between 1/20s and 1/2s.
3. Aim your camera at the center of the scene, and press the shutter button halfway to set the exposure.
4. Pan your camera so it moves parallel to any dominant lines in the scene.
5. While panning, fully depress the shutter button. Continue the motion even after the shutter has closed for a fluid effect.
6. Experiment with different shutter speeds for different results!

3. Look for reflections

Reflections are one of the best ways to create impressionist photography – and if you look carefully, you’ll see they are everywhere.

As you walk around, seek out smooth surfaces. Think about how you can use each surface to capture a viewpoint that you simply couldn’t have shot otherwise.

Pay special attention to colorful reflections in rain-soaked streets; they will create shimmering scenes with an impressionistic quality.

Also, lakes and rivers can create some wonderful reflective surfaces.

And always bear in mind that when a surface is textured or shaped, unusual and interesting reflections can appear.

4. Try zooming

A zoom burst, or zoom blur, is another technique that is simple, fun, and easy to achieve. It involves changing the focal length of your lens (zooming in or out) while you take a photo, causing the shot to blur from the center outward, as if the scene is bursting toward you.

To use this technique, you’ll need a camera with a zoom lens (one that includes a zoom ring). Set your camera to Shutter Priority, and dial in a shutter speed of around 1/10s.

Compose your photo as you normally would, then zoom the lens as you press the shutter. The key to success with this technique is to get the amount of zoom burst right. Experiment with zooming speed and direction, and also experiment with different shutter speeds.

5. Use selective focus

Selective focus involves isolating a small portion of your frame to be in sharp focus while letting the remainder of the image be rendered in a soft, painterly manner. This technique is most effective when using a lens with a wide aperture (for example, f/1.8 or f/2.8).

For optimal results, use a telephoto lens to zoom in on the point of interest, or grab a macro lens and get up close to your subject.

Set your camera to Aperture Priority mode and choose the widest aperture available. Manual focus may be necessary to ensure the desired area of the frame is in sharp focus.

(Pro tip: For particularly striking results, include vibrant colors in the frame!)

6. Deliberately defocus your lens

Pulling the lens out of focus is a quick way to give a scene an impressionistic look, like this:

Use Aperture Priority mode and set your lens to the widest aperture (small numbers such as f/2.4 or f/4). This is critical because you want a very shallow depth of field.

Then switch your lens to manual focus and start looking at things through the camera. Turn the focus ring until everything is blurry.

And try varying the point of focus; this will create different amounts of blur, which can suit different subjects.

7. Use the focus-through technique

This technique is especially effective with flowers due to their semi-translucent nature, which allows light to pass through them. To execute it effectively, focus your lens on a flower that is a few feet away while positioning another flower so close to the lens that it becomes impossible to focus on.

This creates a layered effect, with the foreground flower providing a colorful, blurred overlay that frames the sharply focused flower in the distance.

A few more tips for this impressionist technique:

• Employ a telephoto lens to ensure a decent amount of foreground blur
• Choose a semi-transparent object to place near the front of the lens (rather than a fully opaque object)
• Use manual focus to prevent your camera from mistakenly focusing on the foreground object

8. Have fun with panning

Panning is a fun technique to learn, and although it takes some practice, it’s relatively easy to get started. You can use panning to capture running people, bicycles, cars, or just about anything else that’s moving.

Once you’ve chosen a moving subject, set your camera to Shutter Priority mode, and choose a shutter speed between 1/10s and 1/60s. As your subject comes close, focus on it in advance and start tracking with your camera until you are confident that you are moving your lens in sync with the subject.

The trick to a successful impressionist-panning image is to find a suitable subject. Strong vibrant colors are ideal, and lines that appear throughout the frame will keep the colors distinct and separated.

How to capture impressionist photos: final words

By embracing the methods I’ve discussed, you can essentially reinterpret the world around you! Impressionist photography really does allow you to capture scenes in a way that stirs the soul and ignites the imagination. Ultimately, you can help your audience experience a world that is at once familiar and fantastically new.

Whether you seek to integrate these methods into your existing practice or you’re just dabbling for the joy of discovery, remember that the essence of photography lies in the way you see the world. Let impressionist photography be a celebration of your unique vision, a testament to the beauty that exists in the blur, and a bold statement that every scene is a canvas waiting for your distinctive touch!

Now over to you:

What methods do you plan to use to capture impressionist photos? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post 8 Tips for Beautiful Impressionist Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Peter.

The post Program Mode: Everything You Need to Know (Ultimate Guide) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

This article was updated in January 2025 with contributions from Simon Ringsmuth, Rick Ohnsman, Steve Gandy, and Jaymes Dempsey.

What is Program mode on your camera, and when should you use it?

Program mode is one of those “odd one out” camera settings – something that most folks never try because they simply don’t understand how it can help their photography.

Yet once you get the hang of it, Program mode is actually pretty darn useful. That’s why, in this article, I aim to share everything you need to know about this mode, including:

• What it actually is
• How it works
• How to use it for great results

So if you’re ready to become a Program mode master, then let’s get started.

What is Program mode?

The camera mode dial operates on something of a continuum. On one end, you have Manual mode, which gives you complete control over the three elements of exposure: shutter speed, aperture, and ISO. On the other end, you have Auto mode, which gives you almost no control over exposure.

As you can see in the diagram above, other modes exist in the middle of the spectrum. These modes – Shutter Priority, Aperture Priority, and Program mode – give you some degree of control, but your camera does significant work, as well. For instance, Aperture Priority lets you control the aperture and ISO while the camera determines the proper shutter speed for a good exposure.

So what about Program mode? What does it do?

Program mode exists somewhere between Aperture/Shutter Priority and Auto mode, and it works like this:

You set the ISO, while your camera sets the aperture and shutter speed.

(Remember: The ISO refers to the sensitivity of your camera sensor, the aperture refers to the lens diaphragm size, and the shutter speed refers to the length of time the shutter captures light.)

Program mode also gives you control over other camera features, such as exposure compensation, but I’ll discuss that in a later section. For now, just remember that Program mode gives you ISO control, but leaves the aperture and shutter speed up to your camera.

(In fact, Program mode is sometimes referred to as “ISO Priority.”)

When is Program mode useful?

While Program mode isn’t nearly as popular as Aperture Priority or Shutter Priority, it can make a big difference to your photography – you just have to know when to use it.

In essence, Program mode works best when you care about the ISO, but you don’t care about the shutter speed and the aperture. This is either because you know that your camera will automatically give sufficient shutter speed and aperture values or because these settings won’t affect the final result in a meaningful way.

So if you’re shooting outdoors and you want to produce minimal noise in your photos, you might select Program mode, dial in a low ISO, and then let your camera do the rest.

Or if you’re photographing under powerful artificial lights, you might tell your camera to keep the ISO low, then trust it to nail the remaining exposure variables.

Bottom line:

If all you want to do is adjust the ISO, you’re set. Put your camera in Program mode, change the ISO, and focus on composing and framing your shots rather than thinking about the aperture, shutter speed, and overall exposure.

But that’s not Program mode’s only use. You see, Program mode is also a great transition mode. If you’re aiming to improve your photography skills but you’re still stuck on Auto mode, you might try leveling up to Program mode; you can then use it as a stepping stone to Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, and beyond.

How to shoot in Program mode

Back in the 35mm film days, you would often choose the film you used based on the shooting conditions you planned to work in.

ISO (or before that, ASA or DIN) was a function of the film. ASA speeds of common film types might be 25, 64, 125, 200, 400, and maybe up to 800. You could go a little higher with special processing. The rub was that, whatever film type you chose, you worked with the same ASA for the entire roll (be it 12, 24, or 36 exposures).

Working with Program mode can be a little like shooting film – in that the first thing you do is pick your ISO setting.

This could be ISO 100 for good outdoor light, ISO 200 or 400 for lower lighting conditions, and ISO 800 or higher for dim conditions (or perhaps for when you will be shooting action and need to use fast shutter speeds).

Some photographers call Program mode “ISO Priority,” because once you dial in the ISO, it will remain set, even as the shutter speed and aperture change. (Of course, the big difference from film is that you can change the ISO from shot to shot if you so choose).

So you start by setting your ISO.

Then, unless you have a special reason not to, I suggest you use the averaging metering modes: Evaluative on Canon, Matrix on Nikon. These will consider the entire image and calculate the exposure.

If your camera is set to Program mode, you will now see that it has selected both aperture and shutter speed settings. Depending on the available light, these will usually be toward the middle of the settings range – perhaps something like 1/125s and f/5.6. You may want to change these, and we’ll get into that in a minute, but if not, you’re good to go. Nail the focus and take the shot.

You can shoot all day like this, with your camera pretty much working as a point-and-shoot machine. As a beginner, rather than puzzle over what your settings should be for each shot, you can use Program mode to concentrate on more important things – chiefly composition – and let the camera figure out the exposure. Take away the clutch and the gearshift, and driving is so much easier, right?

Program mode: beyond the basics

At this point, you should be comfortable with the Program mode basics: You set the ISO, and your camera does the rest.

But if you dig a little deeper, you’ll find more useful features to unlock. Many of these can help you get the shot you want, instead of the shot your camera thinks you want. In this way, Program mode is like the late-night infomercial version of Auto; it handles all the nitty-gritty complicated stuff for you, but ends with a “Wait, there’s more!”

First, Program mode allows you to use exposure compensation to correct any exposure mistakes. By adjusting the exposure compensation in one direction, you can force your camera to take brighter images, and by adjusting it in the other direction, you’ll get the reverse.

Say you take a photo of snow and it turns out too dark. With a little exposure compensation, you can bring back the snow’s natural brightness (note that you can’t do that in Auto mode).

And you can adjust plenty of other camera settings while in Program mode, including white balance, metering mode (full/center/spot), point of focus, and whether your camera should use its flash.

(Contrast this with Auto mode, and you should start to see the usefulness of the humble little “P” marker on your camera’s mode dial.)

Of course, Program mode isn’t always the way to go. Sometimes, you’ll want to independently adjust your shutter speed or your aperture, in which case one of the Priority options, or even Manual mode, is the right choice.

But when ISO is all that matters, give Program mode a try.

Program Shift and some Program mode examples

You now know that Program mode allows you to set the ISO while your camera sets the aperture and shutter speed – but what if you want a narrower aperture and don’t mind lengthening the shutter speed? Conversely, what if you want a faster shutter speed and don’t mind widening the aperture?

That’s where Program Shift comes into play. This option lets you adjust the aperture and the shutter speed together – so the exposure doesn’t change, but the specific settings allowing you to achieve the exposure do.

The specifics for how to use Program Shift depend on your camera model, but I’d like to walk you through an example scenario where it can help you achieve top-notch results.

1. It’s an overcast day, so you set the ISO to 800.
2. Your camera is in Program mode, and it suggests an exposure.
3. You decide you want a deeper depth of field, so you use Program Shift to set the aperture to f/22.
4. Your settings are now ISO 800, 1/20s, and f/22. (Note that you’ll need to be on a tripod if you’re using a 1/20s shutter speed.)
5. You focus, then take the shot.

You take a look and decide it might be better to isolate the foreground leaves with a shallow depth of field. Still in Program mode, you use Program Shift to put the aperture at f/4. Your camera automatically adjusts the shutter speed to 1/640s to maintain proper exposure. You take another shot.

Easy, huh? The ISO stayed locked in at 800, and as you adjusted the aperture, the shutter speed adjusted itself.

Suppose now you want to see the effect of shutter speed on a moving object. Still in Program mode, you leave the ISO at 800. To freeze the droplets of a fountain, you use Program Shift to set a 1/1600s shutter speed. You take the shot.

Now, what if you want to get a little motion blur on those drops? Use Program Shift to set a slower shutter speed of 1/50s. The aperture automatically adjusts.

(Exposure compensation is also an option should you need to make your images a little lighter or darker.)

Then make the leap

Program mode can help you get good exposures. And if you pay attention to the settings your camera chooses, you’ll begin to understand the relationship between aperture, depth of field, shutter speed, and motion capture. Program mode can also give you a good jumping-off point to work with a mode such as Aperture Priority.

Say that after making a shot in Program mode, you see the camera chose f/11 as the aperture, and you like the amount of depth of field that resulted. You can then switch over to Aperture Priority mode (Av on Canon, A on Nikon), dial in an f/11 aperture, and start shooting. The camera will stay locked at f/11 while adjusting the shutter speed for various lighting conditions.

The same goes for shutter speed. If your Program mode shot shows a nice amount of motion blur at 1/5s and you want to make subsequent images with that amount of blur, switch to Shutter Priority mode (Tv on Canon, S on Nikon), dial in 1/5s, and shoot away.

The camera will stay locked on the shutter speed you chose and alter the aperture as needed.

Back to the safe spot

If you play around enough with your settings, you may eventually mess things up so that you create a bad exposure or become totally confused about why things are not working for you. That’s when Program mode comes to the rescue.

Put the camera in Program mode, put the ISO to a setting appropriate for your lighting situation (ISO 200 might be a good starting point), and it’ll be like hitting the reset button: you’ll be back to letting the camera choose exposure settings.

Regardless of what mode I choose to shoot in, even Manual, I always put the dial back to Program mode before turning off the camera and putting it back in my bag. Then, if that once-in-a-lifetime shot presents itself and I must grab the camera, quickly power up, and shoot, I can be assured I will get a reasonably well-exposed shot.

I hope you will not take this article to mean you shouldn’t learn to shoot in Aperture Priority mode or Manual mode, because it’s true that a great number of professionals use these settings. But if you are new to photography and are confronted with more information than you can immediately absorb, working in Program mode might just be the helping hand you need.

Concentrate first on learning good composition. And make sure your images are well-focused, because blurry shots are impossible to fix in editing.

For now, let your camera help you with exposure until you begin to wrap your head around all there is to know. Even if you are a more experienced photographer, you might occasionally find that turning the mode dial and working in Program mode is the right choice for a given situation.

Program mode: final words

Program mode is a handy little option, even if it’s often eclipsed by Manual, Aperture Priority, and Shutter Priority.

So the next time you don’t want to give up all control over your camera but also don’t want to do everything yourself, consider Program mode. You might ask yourself, “Do I need to adjust the aperture? And do I need to adjust the shutter speed?”

If the answer is “No,” then Program mode is probably your best option!

Now over to you:

Do you use Program mode? Do you plan to start using it? Why or why not? What do you think of it? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Program Mode: Everything You Need to Know (Ultimate Guide) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

The post 15 Questions to Ask a Photographer (to Improve Your Images) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Guest Contributor.

If you meet a photographer, what questions should you ask them? What questions about photography will help you understand what they do? How can you use their knowledge to improve your own photography?

I’ve spent a lot of time interviewing photographers, and I’ve developed a list of essential questions for photographers that I highly recommend you commit to memory. These are the types of questions that will give you the best, most useful advice, and they’ll also help you understand how the photographer approaches their own photography.

That way, the next time you run into a photographer you admire or you simply engage with a photographer on a website or forum, you know how to come away with the most helpful information.

Let’s get started with my first question:

1. What is the one thing you wish you knew when you started taking photos?

Every photographer struggles when they start out – and improves as they gain experience. Which means that every photographer has one, or two, or even dozens of things they wished they had known at the beginning.

Advice you receive might include:

• Composition
• Lighting
• Gear
• Scouting
• Motivation
• And much, much more!

So it’s a great question to ask a photographer right off the bat. Plus, it’s very open-ended, so it can lead to lots of interesting tips and conversation.

2. How did you get good at photography?

No matter how skilled a photographer might be, they didn’t begin as a photographic genius. Camera settings, composition, light, post-processing; it all takes effort to master, which means that every photographer has experienced some journey.

So ask them about it. Ask them how they went from beginner status to professional (or skilled amateur, semi-professional, etc.). What did they do that helped them most? Was it reading books about photography? Photography courses? Viewing photography? Practicing? Some type of magic bean?

(Bonus: Plenty of photographers love this question, because it’s clearly flattering! So you’re likely to get a good, long, helpful answer.)

3. What essential resources do you recommend?

Every photographer has their go-to resources. These are the books, courses, or tools that they swear by. If you’re talking to a professional, don’t forget to ask them about the resources they find indispensable. This can be your shortcut to leveling up your skills.

Courses, books, documentaries, and workshops come in all shapes and sizes. Some might recommend a YouTube channel that offers quick photography hacks. Others may point you toward a comprehensive online course that dives deep into the technicalities. The point is, each photographer has their own set of recommendations that can offer you unique perspectives.

And if they’re in the photography education space, don’t be surprised if they recommend something of their own. Many of these photographers create their own courses or write books to share their expertise. This could be your chance to get an insider’s view. Learning from their curated material could provide you with tips that are hard to find elsewhere.

Bottom line: The right resources can help you refine your craft. Investing in the right books or online courses can provide you with practical skills that you can apply right away.

4. How do you get honest feedback on your work?

Feedback is a cornerstone of growth, not just in photography but in any creative endeavor. If you’ve ever wondered where to get an unbiased critique of your work, you’re not alone. Professionals have been through this and can guide you to platforms or communities where you can get constructive criticism.

Not all feedback is created equal. While friends and family might offer praise, they often lack the expertise to give you a detailed critique. Professionals can point you to online forums, photography clubs, or even specific social media groups where your work can be critically assessed.

How do you get people to be honest? There’s an art to soliciting constructive feedback, and a professional can teach you how. Maybe it’s about asking the right questions or maybe it’s about creating an environment where people feel comfortable being candid. Learn these techniques to get the most out of your feedback sessions.

5. What gear do you use?

I don’t recommend you start off with this question, because it comes off as a bit superficial; after all, it’s the photographer, not the gear, that makes great photos.

That said, gear does make a difference, and understanding a photographer’s setup can help you in two key ways:

1. It’ll offer recommendations for your own kit (after all, if a photographer you admire shoots with a certain lens and achieves tack-sharp images, the lens is undoubtedly capable glass!).
2. It’ll give you an understanding of the necessary equipment for different photography genres. For instance, a panoramic landscape photographer will need a certain type of tripod – but if you’ve never shot panoramas, you may not know this. Same with a macro photographer who uses a focusing rail, a long exposure photographer with a 10-stop neutral density filter, etc.

By the way, when you question a professional photographer about gear, don’t limit yourself to cameras and lenses. Accessories are often amazingly helpful and less well known, so I highly recommend you discuss tripods, tripod heads, filters, flashes, camera bags, and even rain covers.

6. Which lens is your favorite? Why?

This question about photography continues on the gear theme, except it attempts to understand why a photographer uses the lenses that they do – and what makes certain lenses better than others. Again, it’s worth emphasizing here that a great photographer can make images with any lens, but focal length, maximum aperture, autofocusing speed, and more can all affect your photos (potentially a lot more than you think!).

By the way, when it comes to choosing from among high-level lenses, it’s not so much about determining which lens is the sharpest. Instead, it’s about determining which lens fits your particular preferences and requirements, so that you can achieve the shots you’re after. Make sense?

7. When you go out to shoot, do you take any essential items other than a camera and lens?

Most photographers have an interesting accessory or two they can’t live without, like a cleaning kit, a portable charger, or even certain hiking boots.

And these items vary from photographer to photographer, depending on their shooting genre and style.

It can be a lot of fun to ask a photographer about their essentials. Be sure to find out why they carry the items that they do. And pretty soon, you’ll have a handful of items to add to your own gear wish list!

8. Among the photography gear that you’ve purchased, is there something you wish you hadn’t bought? Why?

It’s not a question that often comes up, which is part of what makes it interesting. As a photographer, what wouldn’t you buy?

You’ll get plenty of different answers here, and that’s great – encourage the photographer to be as broad or specific as they want. Photographers might talk about lenses that sit in their camera bag getting dusty, tripods that shake on windless days, lights that broke after five uses, or something else entirely.

Note each item, but don’t let it stop you from buying the equipment yourself; what works for one person might not work for another!

9. What are some common photography pitfalls?

We all make mistakes. In photography, some missteps can lead to poor results, but knowing what to avoid can make all the difference. So, why not ask a professional what to watch out for? The answer might just save you from falling into common traps.

Let’s talk about composition, for example. It’s easy to get caught up in the moment and snap a shot without properly framing your subject. Another common error is investing too much in gear, without dedicating equal time to learning the craft. This unbalanced approach can stall your progress significantly.

There are also more nuanced pitfalls. Some photographers get so caught up in achieving technical perfection that they forget to develop a unique style. Other mistakes are conceptual, like taking photos without a clear intent or message. These pitfalls can divert you from your artistic path.

Being aware of these mistakes isn’t just about avoidance. It’s also about knowing what to focus on for improvement. By asking this question, you’re not just collecting cautionary tales; you’re building your own guidebook for success. You’re armed with the knowledge of what not to do, which is just as valuable as knowing what to do.

Gathering advice on common pitfalls offers you a fast track to improvement. It’s like having cheat codes for a video game. You get to bypass the errors that could have slowed you down, ensuring a smoother journey in your photography career.

10. What are your favorite settings?

I recommend you leave this question open-ended because you don’t want to know the precise settings that a photographer uses every now and again; instead, you want to know the best settings for specific occasions, as well as the can’t-live-without settings a photographer always needs.

These settings might include:

• Aperture
• Shutter speed
• ISO
• White balance
• Focusing modes
• AF area modes
• Image formats (RAW vs JPEG)
• Image aspect ratio (3:2 vs 1:1 vs 4:3)
• Image style (do they shoot in black and white or do they convert later?)
• Button customizations

Some photographers are very particular about their settings, whereas others tend to leave things on Auto and focus on lighting, composition, and processing. So don’t push the photographer if they don’t give you much (and don’t restrict the photographer if they talk about settings for hours!).

11. What kind of tools do you use for post-processing? What’s your workflow like?

Post-processing is very unique to individual photographers, plus it can be daunting for beginners – so if you struggle in that area, it’s a key question to ask.

You might start by determining the software the photographer uses, but then dig deeper. Ask about specific tools and techniques. (Do they color grade? Do they have any favorite sliders? Do they dodge and burn?) And if they seem open to it, ask about their workflow. In other words, how do they go from start to finish on an image? What does the process look like?

Be sure to listen carefully; the key to a photographer’s style is sometimes hidden in the smallest of details!

12. Out of all your photos, which one is your favorite? Why?

Photographers generally love talking about their own work, so this is a great icebreaker question and a great way to get even the shyest of photographers talking.

It’s not a useless question, either; if you ask a photographer about their favorite work, they’ll often explain how they approached the composition, why they like the shot, and potentially even the techniques they used to create it. It’s an information goldmine!

13. How do you stay focused on your art?

In today’s digital age, external validation is everywhere. Social media has made it easier than ever to seek approval through likes and comments. But is that why you got into photography? If you ask a seasoned photographer, you’ll find they have specific methods to stay focused on their art.

Personal projects are a great example. These are the endeavors that fuel a photographer’s passion. They are not for likes or follows but for the joy and satisfaction that comes from creating something meaningful. Another strategy might be to set aside “creative time” apart from your regular shooting schedule. This is time reserved purely for experimenting and developing your artistic voice.

You might also discover that professionals use tangible tools to stay focused. Mood boards, journals, or even a dedicated workspace can serve as daily reminders of what you’re striving for. These aren’t just physical objects but symbols of your commitment to your art.

By asking this question, you open the door to strategies you might not have considered. These tactics can help you strike a balance between seeking external validation and maintaining your artistic integrity. They remind you why you picked up a camera in the first place.

14. What do you think about social media for photographers?

Ah, social media, the blessing and the curse of modern-day photography. On one hand, platforms like Instagram or Facebook can get your work out there. On the other hand, they can be massive time sinks. Getting a balance is key, and who better to ask than a professional photographer?

Different platforms suit different styles. Instagram may be great for portrait photography, while Pinterest could be more suited for showcasing landscapes. Asking a seasoned photographer about their preferred platform can give you a new perspective on where to showcase your work.

How much time should you spend on social media? The answer varies. But finding out how a professional manages their time online can offer you invaluable insights. Maybe they have a set schedule or perhaps they outsource their social media management. Whatever their strategy, it can serve as a useful reference point for you.

Of course, the big question: art or likes? Social media can skew your focus towards getting validation rather than improving your craft. It’s important to hear from someone who’s navigated these waters successfully. They can offer advice on how to maintain your artistic integrity while still engaging with an online audience.

15. Whose work has influenced you most?

Out of all the questions to ask photographers on this list, the “influence” question is the most difficult to answer – but if you have the time and the photographer is willing, it can lead to outstanding insights into their work.

See, all photographers have influences. And while most work is original to some extent, by understanding how a photographer developed, you can nail down certain aspects of their thought process, such as:

• What they’re trying to say with their photography
• How they approach composition
• How they think about light

And asking about influences will often give you a few new photographers to follow!

Questions to ask a photographer: final words

Well, there you have it: 15 questions about photography to improve your knowledge, skills, and more.

These questions aren’t just a one-time checklist. They form a guide that you can revisit whenever you’re looking for a boost in inspiration or skill. And don’t hesitate to go back to these questions as you continue to grow and evolve in your photographic journey.

Now it’s up to you. Take these questions and go start conversations with photographers who inspire you. Your passion, combined with their wisdom, can lead to remarkable growth. These dialogues could very well be the catalyst for taking your photography to the next level.

Now over to you:

Do you have any key questions to ask photographers that I missed? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

About the author: Anees K A is a photography enthusiast who likes to explore the wild. He tweets as @aneeskA.

The post 15 Questions to Ask a Photographer (to Improve Your Images) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Guest Contributor.

The post Moon Photography Settings: A Guide for Gorgeous Results appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

The moon is a wildly popular photography subject – it has a certain magic that captures nearly every photographer’s imagination – but choosing the right moon photography settings can be quite tricky.

While it’s definitely possible to capture sharp, well-exposed moon images, many beginner photographers don’t use the right approach. As a result, they often just give up in frustration. That’s where I can help.

You see, capturing great moon shots isn’t too difficult once you wrap your head around a few basic elements. Just follow the camera settings advice I share below, and with a little patience and practice, you’ll be taking excellent photos of the moon in no time at all.

Let’s dive right in!

Moon photography settings: the basics

If you want a simple answer to the question of what moon photography settings to use, here’s my advice:

• Shoot with a fast shutter speed of at least 1/180s.
• Use a small aperture like f/8.
• Keep your ISO low – so that when you crop, your picture will remain clean and not noisy.
• Use a telephoto lens.
• Always shoot in RAW; that way, you have plenty of room to edit the colors, sharpness, and other elements of your photo afterward.

Why these settings? Let me offer a short explanation:

The first thing to know about shooting the moon is that it’s deceptively bright. You might not think of this giant ball of rock as particularly luminous when compared to the sun, but it puts out way more light than you might think. This makes it tricky to calculate exposure and get your other moon photography settings just right.

The other important item to keep in mind is that the moon is not a slow celestial body. In Greek mythology, Selene, the goddess of the moon, speeds across the night sky in a glowing chariot. Our ancient ancestors knew what they were talking about! If you take a picture of the moon, you have to keep its constant movement in mind; otherwise, you’ll never get a great shot.

The final part of the equation to remember is that the moon, while relatively close in a galactic sense, is pretty far away when you look at it from the perspective of a photographer. If you want a good picture of the moon, you need at least a 200mm lens – and even then, it’s best to use a crop-sensor camera for a bit more reach. So a focal length of 300mm or greater is recommended, and photographing the moon is one time when megapixels really do matter. Unless you have a very long zoom lens, you’ll be cropping your images quite a bit.

While the above advice is a good starting point, you will need to experiment and figure out which settings are right for you. It’s a good idea to dive a little deeper into aperture, shutter speed, and ISO – as well as different focal lengths, focusing modes, and file types – to find out what effect they have on your moon photos; that way, you can get the shots you’re aiming for.

Choosing the perfect moon photography camera settings: 10 practical tips

The good news? Choosing the right moon photo settings isn’t rocket science. If you read the previous section, you already have a strong foundation – and below, I delve into all the key details, including the power of Manual mode, effective focusing techniques, and more.

1. Use Manual mode

This might be intimidating if you’re used to letting your camera make exposure decisions for you, but moon photography is a great way to learn Manual mode.

Your camera knows what to do in most well-lit situations, but shooting the moon isn’t one of them. You have to take control, and Manual mode lets you choose the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO – all of which are critical to getting good pictures of the moon. You must be very specific about your exposure settings, and Manual mode lets you dial in the precise values you need.

2. Shoot in RAW

You have enough to worry about when taking pictures of the moon: exposure settings, weather concerns, cloud cover, foreground obstructions…and that’s just the beginning.

Setting the right white balance and making sure your highlights and shadows are perfectly captured is almost impossible to do in the moment. Thankfully, RAW can save the day.

Shooting in RAW gives you ultimate flexibility when editing your moon photos in a program such as Lightroom. You can adjust the exposure, tweak the sharpening, bring out details you might have missed, and of course, adjust the white balance to your heart’s content.

The JPEG format is fine for many photographic situations, but not moon photography. For best results, use RAW.

3. Use a fast shutter speed

Shutter speed is a good place to start when thinking about moon photography settings because of how fast the moon moves across the sky. Similar to sports photography, you’ll need a fast shutter speed to freeze the motion.

1/180s is a good starting point, but if you can go higher without increasing your ISO, I recommend doing so. 1/250s is good and so is 1/320s (go beyond that, and you start to get diminishing returns).

4. Keep your ISO low

Cameras have come a long way, and what used to be considered a crazy high ISO – like 3200 or 6400 – is now easily achieved without a huge loss in image quality. Things are a bit different when taking photos of the moon, though. Lower ISOs are always preferable, and that holds doubly true for photos of our nearest celestial neighbor.

ISO 100 or 200 is best, but that might not be realistic given the lens you’re using. Generally speaking, you should be fine with ISO 800 or lower, partly because you will get a cleaner image, but also because you will have more leeway when editing your RAW files afterward.

5. Use a (reasonably) small aperture

Most lenses have what’s known as a sweet spot, where the image isn’t too soft and chromatic aberration is well-controlled. This sweet spot isn’t usually at the widest or smallest aperture, but somewhere in the middle.

For that reason, I like to take pictures of the full moon at an aperture between f/4 and f/8. However, the optimal aperture will depend on your particular lens and the type of photos you’re taking.

Honestly, of all the moon photography settings to worry about, I would put aperture at the bottom of my list. Before you consider the aperture, make sure you have a fast shutter speed and the lowest possible ISO. Finally, adjust your aperture until you get a picture you like.

Even if your photos are not tack-sharp because you had to shoot wide open, it’s a trade-off I recommend making. I would rather have a slightly blurry result than a higher ISO setting that will result in noise, especially in the deep blacks of the night sky.

6. Work with a long lens

Let’s get straight to it: you’ll want a telephoto lens for your moon photography venture. With a longer focal length, you’re not just photographing a tiny white circle in the sky; you’re capturing craters, shadows, and all those mesmerizing details.

Starting at around 200mm can yield decent results, especially if you’re using an APS-C camera, but I’d really aim for 300mm or even higher. A 400mm or 500mm lens is even better, and 600mm is better still. Assuming you use a sharp lens, the longer the focal length, the more detail you’ll get in your shots, and the less you’ll need to crop while editing.

But what if you don’t have a long lens? Well, it’s not the end of the world. Shorter lenses can work too, but you’ll be sacrificing detail. Expect to spend more time cropping to make the moon the star of your shot (and expect reduced sharpness as a result of your crops).

Bottom line: whether you invest in a top-of-the-line lens or make do with what you have, the lens is a critical piece of the puzzle. Longer is generally better and will save you time and effort later on!

7. Underexpose slightly

It might seem counterintuitive, but when taking pictures of the moon, you don’t want your images to be as bright as possible. I get my best results when underexposing by one stop or more, depending on the situation.

The easiest way to do this is to set your aperture, shutter speed, and ISO so your light meter indicates a properly exposed picture. Then drop the exposure by one or two stops. The result is a picture without any blown highlights and plenty of room for editing (as long as you make sure to shoot in RAW).

I also recommend using spot or center-weighted metering when doing moon photography. The moon is extraordinarily bright compared to the dark sky around it, which causes all sorts of confusion for your camera’s light meter. Telling your camera to meter based on one small portion of the scene (i.e. the moon) will help you get a better initial exposure value, one that you can then fine-tune.

8. Get creative

Taking pictures of the moon is enthralling, especially if you have never done it before. But after a few shots of that big bright ball of light in the sky, start thinking of a new approach. Try putting trees, buildings, or other objects between you and the moon. Experiment with taking pictures during the waxing or waning crescent phase.

Also, try getting shots at dawn or dusk when you can catch the sky in a rich blue or purple. These are simple, fun ways of taking pictures of the moon that can produce some unexpected results.

9. Manually focus on the moon

Autofocus is convenient, but it often struggles when it comes to moon photography. That’s when manual focus saves the day. This may seem daunting at first, but trust me, it’s easier than you might think.

The goal here is to set your lens to focus at infinity. This is crucial because the moon is really, really far away. However, be careful. Turning your focus ring to the farthest point can sometimes go beyond infinity, making the moon blurry instead of sharp.

So, here’s a pro tip: use your camera’s LCD screen as a focusing aid. Magnify the moon on the LCD, and then adjust the manual focus ring. Keep tweaking until the moon’s surface looks crisp.

Mastering manual focus might take a bit of practice, but it’s worth it. Once you get the hang of it, you’ll find it invaluable not just for moon photography but for other genres as well.

10. Tweak your results afterward

You’ve got your shot. Now what? Well, the truth is that capturing the moon is only part of the journey. Post-processing is where you bring your moon photograph to life, and you adjust tones and colors to complement your settings choices.

You’ll likely need to add some sharpening and contrast, both of which will make those craters pop, revealing the moon in all its intricate detail. Software like Adobe Lightroom or Photoshop offers excellent tools for this! Also, remember that even a slight adjustment can make a world of difference.

But what about color? You might want to adjust the white balance for a natural result – and you can even make some temperature or tint tweaks for aesthetic reasons. Maybe you want a cooler image with bluish tones or perhaps a warmer look. The choice is yours, and color correction tools can help.

Last, don’t forget about exposure. If your image is underexposed, you’ll want to bring up the shadows or overall exposure to reveal lots of detail. And if the shot is overexposed, not all is lost. If you shot in RAW, you can likely recover some of those blown-out highlights!

Moon photography settings: final words

There’s no magic or secret sauce when it comes to getting great shots of the moon. The only real trick is to get the right moon photography settings and to keep practicing until you’re happy with the results.

And remember: The moon isn’t going anywhere, and every lunar phase offers a new opportunity to perfect your skills. Missed a shot? There’s always another night. Moon photography is an ongoing learning process, and the more you shoot, the better you’ll get.

Try some of these settings as a starting point, and then branch out and see what you can come up with. You might be surprised at the pictures you’re able to take!

Moon photography settings FAQ

The post Moon Photography Settings: A Guide for Gorgeous Results appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.