The term “hot pixels” describes those annoying artifacts caused by pixels that randomly appear as red, great, blue, or even white dots in an image when an individual pixel is significantly brighter than those in surrounding areas within the frame. This tutorial from the Photo Feaver YouTube channel demonstrates how to easily “scan” and remove them in Lightroom.

The problem occurs when a pixel generates more electrical charge or a higher signal than it should. It’s an issue that’s particularly acute when using high ISO settings or when capturing long-exposure photographs and can really spoil on otherwise great shot unless you understand the simple process for cleaning things up.

Instructor James is a successful freelance photographer/filmmaker who posts twice-weekly basic tutorials designed to help beginners elevate their shooting and editing skills. It can be very time-consuming to edit out these image-killing artifacts by conventional means. But James promises that in this installment of his “Two-Minute Tutorials” series you’ll discover a quick fix.

The first step is identifying these unsightly spots and James demonstrates how this is done with a really nice shot of London’s Battersea Power Station that he captured after dark with a 30-second exposure. In other words, “it’s a worst case scenario.” He notes that he turned off the camera’s Long Exposure Noise Reduction setting because doing so can sometime reduce or eliminate the problem.

He begins by going to Lightroom’s Remove tool and zooming in on the image. Even then, the hot pixels can be difficult to see. This is where the Visualize Spots slider comes to the rescue. All you have to do is enable this feature and follow the instructions that James provides, at which point the spots in need of repair will pop into view.

The all-important step once the hot pixels are identified is banishing them with the normal Remove tool and it only takes James a minute to describe the straightforward process. Simply choose the appropriate brush size and paint them away. He notes that the longer the exposure, the more spots you’re likely to confront.

In any case, the technique is clean, effective and super simple. Once the lesson concludes you may want to visit the popular Photo Feaver YouTube channel and peruse the many instructional videos that are available.

And speaking of unsightly annoyances, don’t miss our earlier tutorial in which another post-processing expert demonstrates four powerful Photoshop techniques for eliminating ugly color casts from the photographs you capture in the field.

The first step for capturing breathtaking images in the field is analyzing light intensity and direction to determine the necessary settings for achieving a balanced exposure. One foolproof method for accomplishing this task involves using your camera’s histogram to get the light right every time without time-wasting experimentation.

Today’s tutorial with instructor Alex White covers all the basics by explaining what the histogram is, how it works, and simple methods for taking advantage of this straightforward tool to eliminate unnecessary guesswork. It all happens in the next 12 minutes, and then you’ll want to add this technique to your everyday workflow.

You won’t be left out in the cold if the camera you use doesn’t feature a live-view histogram because White walks you through the simple steps for a quick workaround. He also demonstrates how to make an exposure bracket of multiple images, each at a slightly different exposure, in situations where you can’t capture all a scene’s dynamic range in a single shot. Then simply follow his straightforward instructions for merging these photos in Lightroom.

White explains the game-changing concept like this: “The histogram is basically a representation of every pixel in your scene and the light level of those pixels.” Everything on the far left of the graphic is pure black with no detail at all; conversely, what you see on the far right represents pure white where there’s also no detail to recover.

The lesson includes real-world examples of what White considers photos with good and bad exposures so you’ll understand the process that he recommends. In short, you’ll learn why the histogram should be one of your best friends if your goal is to avoid blown-out highlights, crushed shadows, and improperly exposed midtones.

There’s also an important discussion of how the meter in your camera works to determine an accurate exposure of “average” subjects; namely, those with an overall value of 18% gray. Unfortunately, many complex landscape scenes have a wide-range of tones that simply don’t represent a mix that could be deemed as average. And this is where the easy-to-interpret histogram comes into play. Then White explains how to move forward when working without a live-view histogram.

So what do you do in “impossible” situations where the histogram doesn’t get you where you need to be for capturing a balanced image in a single shot? This ia when the aforementioned exposure-bracketing technique is required, and White demonstrates how to capture the necessary images and stitch them together to create a perfect result.

There are many more behind-the-scenes shooting and post-processing videos like this one on White’s instructional YouTube channel.

And don’t miss the eye-opening tutorial we featured recently with another Adobe expert who demonstrates several “must know” image-editing tricks that will streamline your Lightroom workflow while delivering very impressive photographs.

Today’s interesting tutorial with pro Scott Davenport demonstrates how strategic cropping can dramatically enhance the impact of landscape images when less-than-ideal composition compromises the impact of a beautiful scene. As he says, “a tight crop can remove distractions and direct the viewer’s attention straight to the most important part of an image.”

Davenport is a very accomplished shooter whose portfolio is full of outstanding landscape, nature, and seascape imagery. This episode is powerful but brief because he demonstrates the concept of tight cropping with a single image that provides the only inspiration you need to dig through your files and apply the technique to significantly improve photos that you captured in the past.

The sample image is beautifully lit, with gorgeous colors and appropriate focus. Unfortunately, there’s too much dead space in the top of the frame. This framing might work great for a book cover but for other standard purposes, well, not so much. But watch what happens when Davenport changes the aspect ratio to eliminate unnecessary details to enhance emotion and storytelling.

In other words, a tighter crop will help define the message of a photo by accentuating subtleties like the soft glow of sunlit mist or silky fingers of water that might otherwise be lost in a larger frame. Or as Davenport puts it, “By homing in on such elements, landscape photographers can craft more intimate, compelling images that draw views in and make a lasting impression.”

There’ no need for us to summarize the lesson further because Davenport illustrates everything you need to understand in barely two minutes. If you’re interested in the gear he prefers, there’s a complete list in the description beneath the video. Bottom line: Forget about adhering to standard aspect ratios, and crop to your heart’s content.

There are many more straightforward shooting and post-processing how-to videos on Davenports popular YouTube channel, so be sure to pay a visit when you have time to explore.

And on a related note, be sure to watch the tutorial we featured recently in which notable a British outdoor shooter demonstrates how he creates artistic landscape photographs by removing the horizon line during post processing.

Printing and framing your best photographs is a great way decorate a home or office and present thoughtful gifts to family members and friends. Today’s tutorial from an expert shares his time-proven technique while debunking what says are “the most common photo printing myths.”

Instructor Adam Karnacz is an accomplished British pro who specializes in landscape, nature, and macro photography and insists that “printing is the final most-exciting step in photography even though many photographers either avoid it or don’t see the value of this practice at all.” In the next 15 minutes you’ll learn his list of best practices for getting the job done to perfection.

Karnacz begins with a bold claim that may appear controversial until you hear him out; namely that when it comes to printing “megapixels are a lie.” In other words, you don’t really need big resolution to make excellent prints. He’s owned and used camera’s with mammoth resolution and medium-format sensors, and he says there’s only one practical reason for this “insane” capability; namely, “if you want to make huge prints that maintain high detail when viewed very closely.”

There’s no doubt that prints like this are amazing, but here’s the rub: Under normal circumstances there’s no need for massive resolution, because as you step back to an appropriate viewing distance a gigantic level of detail is no longer required. And your expensive high-capacity hard drive will fill up more quickly.

Another misguided complaint is that printing is far too expensive when you factor is the cost of consumables; namely ink and high-quality paper. Here’s how Karnacz responds to this familiar refrain: “While printing is certainly not cheap, I think what people mean when they say this is that printing their photos isn’t valuable enough to justify the cost.”

He quickly debunks this silly claim by discussing the value and satisfaction that occurs “when we bring our photos into the physical world.” Karnacz then provides several tips for keeping your costs under control.

The other myths described in this lesson are equally unfounded, like the claim that ordering prints from lab is preferable to outputting images at home. He also addresses  the notion that glossy prints are always more appealing than those made on other types of media.

And if you’re interested in monetizing the love of photography, forget what you’ve heard from those who say, “prints don’t sell.” There’s also the fact that one of the best ways to elevate your shooting skills is by carefully scrutinizing good-sized prints of your best work. There’s much more of interest to photographers on Karnacz’ instructional YouTube channel.

Of course you can’t make a silk purse out of a sow’s ear, just like you can’t make great prints from lousy photos. So be sure to check out the earlier tutorial we posted, explaining four methods for banishing ugly color casts during post-processing to achieve perfectly balanced and realistic tones.

Skillful composition is an essential attribute of all amazing photographs; especially when shooting complicated scenes in the field. Do things right and you’re headed for success, but thoughtless framing will ruin an otherwise great scene.

Today’s tutorial from pro Steve Arnold explains what he says are “five huge composition mistakes that that are easy to fix.” And it only takes him eight minutes to demonstrate his remedial steps. Arnold is an Australian landscape photographer and post-processing expert who specializes in quick-and-easy tutorials for inexperienced shooters.

Arnold begins with a stark warning that these unfortunate errors “can lead to a devasting feeling of disappointment and regret.” Got your attention? He explains what they are, illustrates how each one can spoil different types of photos, and provides his recommendations for taking a more thoughtful approach.

At the top of Arnold’s list is a problem that’s most likely to rear it’s ugly head during stunning sunrise and sunset conditions, although it may crop up when there’s dramatic light of any kind. Arnold admits that he was guilty of this faux pas earlier in his career, until he realized the importance of using the foreground of a scene to advantage when framing up a shot.

The last thing you want to do when coming upon a spectacular golden-hour scene is waste even a second “scurrying around trying to find a solid composition” before the fleeting magic disappears. Thus, you need to understand how to skillfully frame the scene quickly. And that’s the secret to fixing the four remaining composition mistakes on Arnold’s list.

Tip number two involves a familiar composition problem that may occur when photographing expansive vistas with a wide-angle lens, and sometimes the remedy is as simple as switching your camera angle and perspective or the vantage point from which you shoot.

The other composition tools you’ll learn in the remainder of the video are equally destructive and avoidable. Best yet, Arnold’s recommendations are easily achieved with whatever gear you own and don’t require any advanced skills. The key is a difference in the way you perceive the natural world.

There’s much to learn, especially for inexperienced shooters, on Arnold’s very popular and informative YouTube channel, so make it a point to pay a visit and explore.

And on a related note, be sure to watch the tutorial we featured with a post-processing expert who demonstrates seven common Lightroom mistakes that will compromise the quality of photographs and slow down your workflow.

Smartphone camera technology has advanced to the point that it’s now long past time to stop looking down on photographers who pursue our craft with a mobile device in their hand. After all, with four billion smartphones capturing 73% of all images, it’s time to embrace the power of your Apple or Android phone, and that’s the topic of today’s tutorial from the My Photo Journey YouTube channel.

Today’s instructor is a notable British outdoor photographer who goes by the handle Dawley Lad. This behind-the scenes episode takes you on a picturesque stroll through Lincoln’s charming Cathedral quarter where Dawley demonstrates a number of techniques as he captures excellent images of Little Read Gallery, charming Olivares Café, and Steep Hill’s iconic Norman House at the base of a historic hill.

Dawley’s vibrant and artistic images are all you need to be convinced that his straightforward methods deliver awe-inspiring photos when shooting after the sun drops below the horizon. He shares a variety of tips for using the Pro mode on your phone just like you employ various techniques with a DSLR or modern mirrorless camera.

The discussion includes  the most appropriate smartphone settings for shooting after dark, like adjusting highlights and shadows to make the most of different nighttime scenes even when shooting images in Jpeg mode. Thoughtful composition is part of the process, and you’ll learn about framing tools that are readily available with most phones.

In other words, the goal is to expand your expectations beyond capturing images that could be generously described as mere snapshot photography. We suggest having your phone handy so you can experiment with your newfound knowledge as Dawley describes his favorite camera settings and techniques.

All modern smartphones include a Night mode, and you’d be excused for assuming this is the best approach to take for this specific task. But Dawley demonstrates why the Pro mode is usually preferable because it provides far more control for adjusting various key parameters like ISO, shutter speed, and EV compensation.

Dawley even uses this advanced mode to alter focus point and white balance. He also explains the benefits of other helpful tools like a phone’s self-timer that can really help when using low ISO settings to minimize noise and achieve maximum image quality under low-light conditions. Another important tool enables you to match the aspect ratio to the particular subject at hand.

If you’re unconvinced that your smartphone IS a real camera, this lesson will change your mind in the next 14 minutes. The My Photo Journey YouTube channel offers many more instructional videos for beginners and experienced photographers alike.

You may also benefit from watching the recent tutorial we featured with another accomplished shooter who demonstrates several unconventional shooting techniques that enable you to capture dramatic wide-angle outdoor photographs with an uncommon look.

This post-processing tutorial explores some of the most useful (and underutilized) sliders in both Lightroom and Lightroom Classic. If you’re in the habit of skipping over Lightroom’s Classic’s Basic panel, or Lightroom’s Light and Color panels in search of more advanced tools you’ll want to pay close attention to this tutorial with pro Forest Chaput de Saintonge.

Forest is a professional photographer, educator, and the former Director of Rocky Mountain School of photography. He introduces today’s 14-minute episode like this: “In my opinion these oft-ignored sliders are among the most important tools in the entire Lightroom ecosystem, as they give us the ability to transform our Raw files into what we saw with our eyes.”

Another important topic is the importance of applying these sliders in a specific order because each one builds on the previous adjustment to create a compelling edit with a controlled workflow. It’s a concept we’ve stressed repeatedly in the past that’s definitely worth repeating.

Here’s another key consideration: “I really believe that to get the most out of Lightroom or Lightroom Classic you should be shooting Raw.” Forest also urges you to remember that Raw files aren’t meant to look amazing straight out of the camera. Or as he says, the job of Lightroom’s Basic panel, or Lightroom’s Light and Color panels, is to enhance a Raw photo with a realistic look that faithfully represents the scene you witnessed through the viewfinder.

Forest begins with tonal controls for perfecting exposure and contrast. He explains why the first tool he employs in virtually every edit, regardless of subject matter, is the Exposure slider. To demonstrate how this works he recommends dragging the slider to the right and to the left without focusing on a specific area within the frame. Instead, “we’re looking for the entire image to appear as properly exposed as possible.”

Doing this often means that some areas will initially appear too bright, while others are overly dark. Forest then demonstrates how the Black slider can be employed to quickly refine tonal balance throughout the frame. In essence, this adjustment enables you to determine exactly how dark you want the darkest elements in a photo to appear.

Forest turns his attention to other straightforward tone controls before moving on to simple sliders that enable you to perfect color balance while retaining a natural look. They’re all super simple to use and punch far above their weight. So don’t fool yourself into thinking that you are too “advanced” to make use of these basic tools.

Once you’re done watching head over to Forest’s popular YouTube channel where there are many more how-to videos for improving your shooting and post-processing skills.

We also recommend watching a tutorial we featured with another image-editing expert who demonstrates several “must-know” post-processing hacks that will speed up your Lightroom workflow and deliver eye-catching photographs.

We’ve all marveled at spectacular photos of the nighttime sky, and the Milky Way is one of the major attractions. Unfortunately, many photographers take a pass on this epic opportunity because of the misconception that exotic gear is required or they lack the necessary skills.

This comprehensive guide from the B&H Photo Video YouTube channel explains everything necessary for capturing beautiful images without fumbling around in the dark, and then enhancing your Milky Way images with a straightforward post-processing workflow. Instructor Matt Zefi promises that after watching today’s 19-minute episode you’ll be able to nail amazing images every time.

Zefi is an accomplished NY-based photographer and instructor known for his ability to simplify seemingly complicated tasks. In this behind-the-scenes lesson from the Great Smoky Mountains you’ll follow Zefi in the field as he provides numerous “foolproof” techniques from planning to post so that you can get in on the action.

Thoughtful planning is especially important for all sort of astrophotography, and that’s where Zefi begins. As he says, “You want to make sure that you’re in the right spot at the right time and this depends upon the hemisphere you’re in and the specific location you choose.” Zefi reveals a useful app that provides this information at glance.

It’s also important to understand the phase of the moon and be aware of light pollution while aiming for a new moon when you’ll benefit from the darkest sky and the brightest stars. Zefi moves on to a discussion of gear and why a fast lens is very helpful, and then he illustrates a few simple techniques for attention-grabbing composition.

Configuring the camera properly is also an essential part of the equation and Zefi walks you through the camera settings he recommends. These are different from those you use for other photographic tasks, and they’re dependent upon the specific lens in use.

The popular Photopills app mentioned above is a big help is this regard too. Zefi plugs in his focal length and other basic information, and the app recommends the best shutter speed to use as a starting point before experimenting with other effects.

Zefi concludes this very helpful primer by pulling up his images on the computer and demonstrating a simple post-processing technique that anyone can master in minutes. Once you set side your apprehension and follow Zefi’s advice, we guarantee that you’ll own the night from now on.

Be sure to visit the popular B&H Photo Video YouTube channel where there are many more helpful lessons on popular shooting and image-editing techniques.

And don’t miss another eye-opening tutorial we featured recently in which an English pro demonstrates how to create stunning “fine art’ landscape photographs by eliminating the horizon line during post processing.

Many of us spend hours meticulously editing a set of photos, all the while wishing we were back out in the field with a camera doing what we love most. Today’s tutorial with instructor Rob Dryburgh will grant that wish by demonstrating “eight must-know shortcuts that will boost your workflow and make post processing a breeze!”

Dryburgh is an accomplished pro based in beautiful Newfoundland, Canada with the goal of helping others “unlock their passion for photography” with straightforward shooting and editing tips that anyone cam master in minutes. The helpful hacks in this seven-minute episode span the gamut from automatic adjustments to helpful before-and-after views.

These timesaving techniques are all about more efficient ways to use common Lightroom tools and a few keyboard shortcuts that you’ll want to start using today. He begins with a trick for adjusting sliders, explaining that “if you hold the Shift button and double-click on a slider Lightroom will automatically adjust the slider to what it thinks is the proper adjustment.”

Next on the list is a simple way to automatically invoke the Crop tool by tapping the “R” key. And once the Crop guides appear you can hit the letter “O” to cycle through various cropping options from the Rule of Thirds, Golden Ratio and other helpful aids for switching up composition.

Dryburgh moves on to a discussion of Lightroom’s oft-ignored Solo mode, describing what it does and the most-efficient method for using it to accelerate your workflow by collapsing unnecessary panel to simplify the workspace and keep you on track. There’s another cool trick that enables you to adjust exposure by clicking on the histogram and dragging left or right.

The foregoing shortcuts are just half of those you’ll learn by watching this lesson until the end. Other tricks include an easy method for syncing multiples photos, dimming the interface by hitting the letter “L” and accomplishing fine slider adjustments. The lesson concludes with a quick tip for comparing before/after images in a split screen by simply tapping the letter “Y” on your keyboard.

Dryburgh’s popular YouTube channel offers a variety of how-to videos that will help level up your post-processing skills.

And on a related note, don’t miss the earlier tutorial we posted with another pros’s advice for avoiding seven image-killing mistakes that may disrupt your Lightroom workflow and compromise the quality of your photographs.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=YFh2ajCR14Q