4K and 8K aren’t just buzzwords—they’re today’s standard for visual storytelling. But what happens when your footage doesn’t measure up? Maybe it’s an old SD clip from a documentary project, now painfully grainy on a modern screen. Or a once-in-a-lifetime wedding moment, ruined by dim lighting and noise.
These aren’t just “what-ifs”—they’re real frustrations. Fast-moving shots (think sports or wildlife) lose critical detail. Telephoto lenses introduce soft edges. Even macro videographers, who rely on capturing delicate textures, fight against lens limitations.
That’s where AI video upscaling comes in. It’s not just about adding pixels—it’s about restoring what your footage was meant to be. Whether you’re rescuing old tapes, fixing low-light shots, or sharpening macro details, tools like VideoProc Converter AI have gone from “nice-to-have” to essential.
Part 2: Why VideoProc Converter AI? The AI Video Upscaler You Can Trust
When quality and efficiency matter, VideoProc Converter AI is the definitive solution for videographers and filmmakers. Unlike basic upscalers that simply stretch pixels, it intelligently reconstructs footage using advanced AI—preserving authenticity while achieving stunning 4K/8K clarity. Here’s why professionals trust it:
Cinematic-Quality Upscaling
Uses deep learning to analyze and enhance details frame-by-frame, transforming SD/HD to true 4K/8K without artificial sharpening or artifacts. Ideal for restoring old footage or meeting broadcast specs.
Smart Artifact Removal
Eliminates compression flaws (blockiness, banding) from streaming rips, DSLR footage, or legacy files—revealing clean, natural textures hidden beneath digital noise.
Dual Denoising Engine
Combats both high-ISO grain and motion blur in low-light scenes (e.g., weddings, concerts), recovering crisp details even in near-darkness.
Frame-Perfect Motion Handling
Ensures smooth slow-motion by compensating for dropped frames or blur in fast-action shots (sports, wildlife), avoiding the “jelly effect” of cheaper tools.
GPU-Optimized Speed
Renders 8K in real-time by leveraging multi-GPU power—cutting processing time by 75% compared to CPU-based alternatives.
Part 3: Easter Special: Elevate Your Toolkit Without Breaking the Bank
Good video software shouldn’t cost a fortune. VideoProc Converter AI delivers pro-level results without the Hollywood price tag.
Your Options:
Annual Plan ($25.95): Full access to every feature—from AI upscaling to stabilization and colorization—for a full year. Perfect if you prefer flexibility.
Lifetime License ($45.95): A single payment unlocks permanent access. The go-to choice for studios and serious creators.
EASTER SPECIAL ALERT! ? For a limited time, upgrade to the Lifetime License for 3 devices at just $39.95—that’s 30% off the regular multi-device price.
This isn’t just software—it’s a long-term solution for your workflow. The offer won’t last, and neither should your compromise on quality.
Bonus Tip
Need to polish the photos too? Grab Aiarty Image Enhancer (1-Year License included) to fix blurry portraits, restore old scans, and prep images for print.
Part 4: From Grain to Glory: How to Upscale Like a Pro
VideoProc Converter AI doesn’t believe in one-size-fits-all solutions. That’s why it offers four specialized AI models, each engineered to tackle specific enhancement challenges with surgical precision:
1. Motion Enhancement Mode Your secret weapon for fast-paced content. It analyzes movement patterns to reduce motion blur and rolling shutter artifacts – perfect for smoothing out sports plays, drone footage, or wildlife action shots.
2. Film Restoration Mode A time machine for vintage footage. While upscaling, it preserves the authentic grain structure of 16mm/35mm film while removing scratches and noise – ideal for archivists and period piece creators.
3. Anime Optimization Mode The animator’s ally. It applies intelligent anti-aliasing to clean up jagged edges in 2D animations and hand-drawn art without softening distinctive artistic lines.
4. Portrait Refinement Mode The interview specialist. It enhances facial details – sharpening eyes, refining skin texture, and maintaining natural tones for documentary subjects or talking-head footage.
Your Step-by-Step Upscaling Guide:
Step 1: Download and Install VideoProc Converter AI
Install VideoProc to your PC or Mac and run it. Select the Super Resolution icon.
Step 2: Import videos and Select Your AI Model Drag and drop your video file directly into VideoProc’s clean interface – it supports everything from vintage. Click the “AI Model” dropdown and choose the mode that matches your content type.
Step 3: Set Output Parameters Specify your target resolution (up to 4K), video/audio codec, and format. Once you’re satisfied with the results, click the RUN button to export.
Part 5: Beyond Upscaling – Your Complete Video Toolkit
VideoProc Converter AI isn’t just an upscaler—it’s an all-in-one powerhouse packed with professional tools that streamline your entire post-production workflow. Here’s what else you can do:
AI Frame Interpolation:
Transform 24/30/60FPS footage into ultra-smooth 120-480FPS slow motion—perfect for cinematic B-roll or reviving vintage clips without expensive high-speed cameras.
Video stabilization
Make handheld camera footage steady, Optimize wobbles in low-light environments, Eliminate shakes in drone videos, Fix shaky GoPro footage, and stabilize jitters from moving objects.
Turn Monochrome Photos into Colorful Images, breathe new life into black-and-white photos by adding vibrant colors, transforming old and faded heritage images into true-to-life modern pictures with restored and sharpened details.
Universal Format Conversion
Support 370+ Input Codecs, 420+ Output Formats, convert 4K/HEVC/C-log/MP4/ XAVC-S/MKV 420+ formats for smooth playback.
Smart Compression
Reduce file sizes by up to 90% (e.g., 2GB ? 0.17GB) without sacrificing quality—ideal for email sharing or storage optimization.
Quick Edits & DVD Digitizing
Crop, resize, rotate, or watermark videos in seconds. Plus, rip DVDs to MP4/ISO/MP3 with 1:1 quality preservation.
Part 6: Don’t Miss This Upgrade
VideoProc Converter AI revolutionizes your workflow with intelligent upscaling that transforms ordinary footage into extraordinary 4K/8K content – preserving authentic details through specialized AI modes while delivering lightning-fast processing. Whether you’re restoring archival footage, perfecting slow-motion sequences, or meeting broadcast standards, this all-in-one solution gives you the precision and efficiency professionals demand.
Ready to future-proof your creativity? Claim Your Discount Now! Get the lifetime multi-device license (3 workstations) for just $39.95 – a 30% savings! This deal won’t last forever.
This week I got an email from a reader who wrote the following question about ‘low light sports photography’.
“I am about to move from Point and Shoot to DSLR. I will receive my Nikon D50 in two days. I want to practice by taking sports photos at my co-workers softball games. They play at night under the lights. Is there anything I should know about that type of lighting. Flash or no flash? White balance? Thanks”
Here’s how I replied:
Hi there (name withheld) – you must be excited! I still remember the days before my Canon 20D arrived!
Ok – my approach to lowlight sports photography:
It’s hard to get right. The combination of distance from your subject (makes flash less effective), the low light and the speed that sports brings to your subject make it very difficult.
Experiment – As a result the key is to experiment lots during the session. I’d say try using flash, try shots without it, try playing with different settings (see below). The great thing about digital cameras is that you can take almost unlimited shots and don’t have to worry about cost. Take loads of shots at different settings and you’ll find yourself learning as you go and honing in on what works best in the situation you’re in.
Try your Flash – I’m not sure if you have an external flash or you’ll just be relying upon the camera’s built in one but the inbuilt one will probably not be too effective unless you’re up close. Give it a go though, you might be surprised. An external flash will be more powerful but I find in most stadiums there is enough light to shoot without flash and that with many sports it’s actually either not allowed or not appropriate to use them as they can distract the competitors.
Shutter Speed – Ideally with sports you need a fast shutter speed to freeze the motion of your subjects. Unfortunately this means less light gets in so depending upon how light the field is you might need to slow it down (and then you’ll get blur). To have some control of shutter speed select your cameras shutter speed priority mode and choose the quickest speed that it will allow you to choose.
ISO – this is probably the feature you’ll want to play with the most. I don’t know if you’ve ever used film cameras and noticed much about ISO but it’s about how sensitive the film is. The higher the number the lower the light you could shoot in. The downside was that the higher the number the grainier your shots turned out. The same applies with digital. You can increase your ISO and this will enable you to shoot at faster shutter speeds. The cost is that you’ll get grainier shots (‘noise) the higher you go. Again – the key if you’re playing with a new camera is to experiment. Learn how to change ISO before you go out and shoot off different shots at different ISO
Lenses – again, not sure what lens you have or if you have more than one but another way to speed up your camera which will enable shooting in low light is to get a ‘fast’ lens( a lens with a larger aperture).
The lower the aperture that you shoot at the more light your lens allows into your camera (and the quicker the shutter speed will be) – and as we know a quick shutter speed makes capturing a moving subject easier).
One of the consequences of shooting a larger aperture is that you’ll get a shallower depth of field which can really add to a photograph but also means you really need to watch your focussing as if you happen to focus slightly off your subject they will appear very out of focus.
This might factor into future considerations for purchases. Often the kit lens that comes with a DSLR is a lower quality lens and not as fast. I’m not sure what D50’s ship with in your part of the world but most ship with something in the f/5.6 aperture range. If you are going to be taking a lot of lower light situation shots you might want to consider buying a second lens at some point that has a lower f/number. I’m not too familiar with Nikon lenses but I know in Canon you can get one that is as fast at f/1.2 (its an 85mm lens) which reportedly will let you shoot in light approaching candle light.
White Balance – shooting in low light usually means you have some sort of artificial light going on which can make your photos come out in all kinds of different shades (you might have noticed sometimes images shot in low light come out with a yellow or greenish tinge to them). ‘White Balance’ is the function in your camera that tells your camera what’s white in your shot so that it can make adjustments to get the right balance in your other colors. Read your camera’s manual on white balance and learn how to experiment with it and you can significantly change the temperature of your photos.
Image Stabilization – the other way to get a lens which will shoot in low light is to look for one with IS (image stabilization). This will let you drop your shutter speed down lower. Of course this isn’t ideal for sports shots as they move too fast, but if you are shooting still subjects in low light it’s very useful.
Sports Mode – most digital cameras come with a built in ‘sports mode’. This usually does a reasonable job of optimizing aperture, shutter speed and ISO to give you the best shot for the conditions you’re in. I find that it works best in well lit situations however and that experimenting manually with the above factors is more effective in low light.
Tripod – lastly, a tripod, monopod or some other stable surface will help a lot also as it’ll help cut down on camera shake if you have to resort to slow shutter speeds.
I’m not sure that really solves all the challenges you face in shooting sports in low light (as I say it’s tricky) but I hope it at least gives you some options to think about and experiment with.
As I say – the key I’ve found is to shoot LOTS of shots at different settings, especially in the early days of your experience with your DSLR.
Ever spent hours painstakingly masking hair strands or fixing jagged edges after removing a cluttered background? What if you could skip the tedious work and let AI handle the heavy lifting—while you focus on creating stunning images?
You know backgrounds can make or break a shot. A messy room, harsh lighting, or an overcast sky can ruin an otherwise perfect portrait. But manually removing backgrounds? That’s time you could spend shooting, networking, or simply enjoying life behind the lens.
Aiarty Image Matting is designed to tackle these very challenges head-on. This isn’t just another “magic wand” tool. It’s an AI-powered background remover. No more wrestling with Photoshop’s Quick Selection Tool or drawing manual trimaps. Aiarty Image Matting delivers precision on tricky details (think frizzy hair, lace veils, or water droplets) and speed for batch-editing thousands of images—all with one-click simplicity.
Special Offer: Ready to ditch the tedious background removal grind? Aiarty Image Matting offers a 1-Year License Giveaway so you can test its power firsthand. For photographers ready to level up their workflow, unlock unlimited access at an unprecedented low price. Or you can directly grab our AiMeida package here!
Let’s face it: not all background removal tools are created equal. Aiarty’s AI is built to tackle the unique challenges photographers face daily. Here’s how it simplifies your workflow while delivering pro-level results.
Flawless Edges, Even on Tricky Details
Struggling with frizzy hair, lace veils, or splashing water? With the unique Alpha Matting, Aiarty handles semi-transparent edges and fine details effortlessly. No more jagged halos or lost textures—just clean, natural blends that look like you spent hours masking (but you didn’t).
One-Click Simplicity, Pro-Level Results
Why waste time on complicated tools? Aiarty offers four models trained for different image types. Import your image, choose a model, and let Aiarty work its magic. It’s that easy, making advanced techniques accessible to photographers of all skill levels.
Refine with Control, Not Complexity
Need a quick tweak? Aiarty’s smart editing brush tools let you refine edges or restore details in seconds. Think of it as a digital eraser—but one that actually understands your subject. In addition to the precise AI detection, you can use Manual Selection to adjust the area you want to keep.
Batch Process Thousands in Minutes
Shooting a wedding or product catalog? Aiarty edits loads of images at once, so you can focus on what matters: capturing moments, not clicking buttons. Edit 3,000+ wedding or product photos in one go. Ideal for high-volume projects. It’s faster than brewing your morning coffee.
How to Use Aiarty Image Matting
Editing doesn’t have to be a headache. With Aiarty Image Matting, you can go from raw image to polished masterpiece in just a few simple steps. Here’s how it works:
Step 1: Import Your Image
Drag and drop your photo into Aiarty Image Matting—whether it’s a single portrait or a folder of 3,000 product shots. The software supports raw and high-resolution files, so your 4K edits stay crisp and professional.
Step 2: Choose Your AI Model
Aiarty offers four specialized AI models to match your subject:
AlphaStandard V2: For hair, lace, and semi-transparent edges.
EdgeClear V2: For sharp, detailed subjects like jewelry or wildlife.
AlphaEdge V2: For mixed edges needing both softness and clarity.
SolidMat V2: For solid objects like furniture or gadgets.
Select the model that fits your needs, and then click Start to launch AI reference.
Step 3: Refine (If Needed)
Not quite perfect? Use Aiarty’s smart brushes to tweak edges or restore details:
Eraser Tool: Fix stray hairs or halos.
Brush Tool: Enhance edges or add softness.
Dodge/Burn Tools: Adjust lighting for seamless blending.
Step 4: Export and Publish
Once your edit is flawless, export the image as a PNG with transparency or layer it into a new background in the software. Aiarty’s high-quality output ensures your work looks professional, whether it’s for a client portfolio, social media post, or e-commerce listing.
Where Aiarty Shines in Real-World Photography
Aiarty Image Matting isn’t just a tool—it’s a game-changer for photographers across genres. Whether you’re shooting portraits, products, or wildlife, Aiarty solves real-world challenges and unlocks creative possibilities. Here’s how it transforms your workflow.
For Personal Projects & Hobbies
For portrait photographers, delivering studio-quality headshots is now easier than ever. Cluttered backgrounds can ruin an otherwise perfect shot. With Aiarty Image Matting, you can replace messy backdrops with clean, neutral tones or custom designs in seconds. It excels at handling tricky details like frizzy hair, flyaways, or translucent fabrics, ensuring your subject blends naturally into the new scene.
For Professional Creatives
For travel and wildlife photographers, Aiarty Image Matting helps you isolate birds, animals, or landmarks from cluttered foliage or crowds. You can even replace dull skies with vibrant sunsets for a dramatic finish.
Wedding photographers know that every detail matters. From lace veils to tulle skirts, Aiarty ensures flawless edits for semi-transparent fabrics and flowing hair. Batch-process hundreds of ceremony and reception photos in minutes, and create dreamy composites by layering subjects into new scenes.
For E-commerce & Business
If you are a product photographer or a business owner, Aiarty Image Matting is your secret weapon for e-commerce success. Marketplaces like Amazon demand pure white backgrounds, and manually editing hundreds of product shots can be a nightmare. Aiarty delivers crisp, razor-sharp edges for gadgets, jewelry, or furniture, even under challenging lighting. Plus, its batch processing feature lets you edit 3,000+ images in one go. Swap uneven studio backdrops for consistent and client-ready results.
Why Photographers Trust Aiarty’s Tech
Aiarty Image Matting is designed to handle the toughest editing challenges. Here’s why photographers rely on Aiarty for precision, speed, and creative freedom.
Four AI Models for Every Editing Scenario
Aiarty doesn’t rely on a one-size-fits-all approach. Instead, it offers four specialized AI models, each optimized for different types of images.
AlphaStandard: Perfect for semi-transparent edges like hair, lace, or water. It preserves soft transitions and delicate textures, making it ideal for wedding photographers or portrait artists.
EdgeClear: Tackles sharp, detailed subjects like jewelry, wildlife, or furniture. It enhances edge clarity while retaining fine details, so your edits look crisp and professional.
AlphaEdge: Prioritizes edge sharpness over smooth transparency variations. Balances softness and sharpness for mixed-edge subjects, like flowing dresses with intricate lace. It’s the go-to model for fashion photographers or creatives working with layered textures.
SolidMat: Handles complex image structures for better matting accuracy and detail preservation. Delivers clean, precise cuts for solid objects like gadgets, shoes, or buildings. It’s a lifesaver for product photographers or real estate professionals.
Matting vs. Segmentation
Traditional background removal tools often leave harsh, jagged edges—especially around tricky details like hair, glass, or water. Aiarty Image Matting uses alpha matting, a sophisticated technique that blends edges like a soft brush, not scissors. This means your subjects transition seamlessly into new backgrounds, with no unnatural halos or lost details.
How Aiarty Stacks Up Against Traditional Tools
When it comes to background removal, not all tools are created equal. Here’s how Aiarty compares to traditional options or online background removers across key areas.
Ease of Use: Compared to the steep learning curve of traditional image editors, Aiarty is designed for photographers of all skill levels. No advanced editing knowledge required—just import, click, and refine.
Performance: Photoshop is powerful but time-consuming. Online tools often struggle with accuracy, especially with semi-transparent or fine details. Aiarty Image Matting handles complex edges (hair, glass, water) with AI-powered precision. Delivers natural blends and sharp details in seconds.
Upscaling Capabilities: Aiarty Image Matting comes with an AI Enhance feature to enhance image quality and resolution. With three built-in AI models, you can enhance the original image quality to extreme detail and upscale the resolution by up to 2X. This is a bonus feature you can’t find in most background removers.
Batch Processing: Aiarty Image Matting can edit thousands of images at a faster speed in one go—perfect for weddings, events, or e-commerce catalogs.
Elevate Your Photography with Aiarty
You didn’t become a photographer to spend hours hunched over a computer, wrestling with clunky tools. You became a photographer to create—to capture moments, tell stories, and deliver images that leave clients speechless.
Aiarty Image Matting is here to help you do just that. With its AI-powered precision, batch processing speed, and photographer-first design, it’s more than a tool—it’s your new creative partner. Whether you’re editing hair-flyaway portraits, polishing product catalogs, or crafting dreamy wedding albums, Aiarty handles the tedious work so you can focus on what matters: your art.
Why Wait? Join our Free License Giveaway and start your free trial from today. Your next masterpiece is just a click away.
UPDATE: Because the team at Synology have given us one of their BRAND NEW models for this giveaway, we have a couple of weeks to wait for the NAS, and, as such, we are extending the deadline for entry to April 11th – Follow, Comment, Share and Tag! ENTER HERE
A lesser known celebration for a day that, as a photographer / content creator / filmmaker / regular person that takes photos of their kids on their phone.. (everyone!) SHOULD be at the top of your calendar! World Backup Day! – March 31st!
March 31st each year, we all encourage each other to BACKUP! In my case it’s to make sure my directly attached external drive is backed up to my NAS (I’ve been using Synology NAS for years, and that’s how we arrived here!) and, I also use it to remind my wife to do her once-a-year backup of her ageing laptop! (trust me, I try…)
This year, we’ve joined forces with the team at Synology to award one lucky person with a FANTASTIC 4-Bay Synology NAS and matching Synology Drives to make sure that they’re BACKED UP properly going forward!
All you need to do to enter is to head over to our Instagram post linked below…
Tag a friend in the comments that REALLY needs to back up!
Losing your photo archive because you stored it all on your laptop and some clumsy mate spilled his coffee in your keyboard? The dog chewed it? Aliens… The list goes on! But with it being SO easy to back up these days, what’s stopping you?
29% of data loss is caused by accidents! Don’t be part of the 29%, click here, enter now.
Terms & Conditions for Instagram Giveaway
Eligibility: Open to legal residents of Australia aged 18 and over. No purchase necessary.
Entry Period: Starts March 28, 2025 and ends on April 4th at 12:59 PM [Melbourne zone].
How to Enter: Follow @digitalps and @synology.official on Instagram, like the giveaway post, and comment as per instructions.
Winner Selection: A random draw will take place on April 5th at 1:00 PM
Prize: One Synology 4-Bay NAS with matching hard disk drives. Prize is non-transferable, no cash alternative.
Winner Announcement: The winner will be announced on @digitalps Instagram and contacted via DM. The winner must respond within 72 hours to claim the prize. We will NOT message you from any other account or DM you from any other account – anyone else claiming you’ve won is a scammer and should be… well, use your imagination, I don’t like scammers…
Shipping & Delivery: The prize will be shipped to the winner at no cost within Australia. We are not responsible for any customs fees or lost packages.
Disqualification: We reserve the right to disqualify entries that do not follow the rules or are deemed fraudulent.
Not Affiliated with Instagram: This giveaway is not sponsored, endorsed, or administered by Instagram.
Well, yes and no. I believe that if you’re simply a hobbyist and you’re not to worried about ever losing data on a card then it’s not going to make much difference if you get a pricey card or a cheap card. Though I would also suggest if you always get cheap cards, get small ones that don’t store too much data, that way, when, not if they fail, you don’t lose too many photos or videos.
There is an old saying, that goes “there are too kinds of digital storage, those that have failed and those that haven’t failed yet”. Cheaper and more expensive cards can both fail, they are both physical manufactured things. But the difference I have often found is that with some products that cost more, you’re not just paying for how they perform but also how the company that makes them performs when something goes wrong.
I have been exceptionally luck over the years, that I haven’t had more than 2-3 horror stories of hard drives or memory cards failing on me. Though most of the times when they have failed it hasn’t been a huge horror story as I am fanatical about backup, but that is for another article.
I got my first set of ProGrade memory cards back in 2020. I was sent them for long term review and I think 5 years later definitely counts as long term. I got sent 1x V90 128gig and 1x V90 256gig and have been using them solidly for 4 or so years since. Not only that, but those two worked so well for me that I also bought 3 more of the 256gig cards.
I’ve have used them on countless projects for my production company as well as my Youtube channel over these last few years, they have captured probably thousands of hours of 4K and 6K high bitrate content, in some pretty challenging conditions and never missed a beat.
I’ve used them in cameras ranging from Sony, Panasonic, Canon and Nikon.
Even though I’ve never really needed to make use of ProGrade’s support, they have some pretty useful features. They have a free app you can download for Mac or Windows called PreFresh Pro which you can use to check your cards health. After all my cards have been though they all still show as 99.9% healthy. The app suggests that if you card gets down by 10% then you should look at replacing it as soon as possible.
You can also “Sanitise” your cards with the ReFresh app which will wipe then clean, but also optimise them for best speed and use. Though I’ve never really noticed the cards having any issues with speed on read or write. Please note that you do need to use a ProGrade card reader in order for the app to recognise your cards and work with them. Also even though the software is free, you do need to “order it” via their website. I am assuming they do this to limit the bandwidth of people downloading it over and over again from them website.
ProGrade also sell a $49 USD app called Recovery Pro for recovering lost data from a card. Of course this will depend on what has gone wrong with the card if you can get anything off it or not. So your mileage will vary, but it’s nice that they sell an option for this. Also note the purchase price is for a one year licence only, but they do have a free evaluation copy you can use to scan your files and see if they app thinks it can recovery anything you can use before you buy.
Thankfully, I’ve never had the need for that app and fingers crossed I never will.
In conclusion, even though I generally hesitate to ever outright recommending something, I have no hesitation outright recommending the ProGrade SD cards. I’ve not used any of their other cards, but from the last 5 years of my experience with these cards, they work every time and have never given me any issues. Which is pretty much all you want from a memory card, isn’t it?
Memory cards are an essential part of digital photography. They record your precious files and keep them safe until you’re able to transfer them to your (hopefully) full-fledged storage solution – which means that it’s essential that you understand how to use memory cards correctly.
After all, a properly cared-for memory card will often perform flawlessly for years – while a poorly looked-after card will be prone to errors, corruption, and loss of files.
In this article, I share 18 tips for keeping your memory cards in good condition. I explain how you should correctly eject your cards, how often (and when) you should format your cards, and more.
Let’s dive right in!
1. Carry backup cards whenever you shoot
Card failure is unpredictable, and the last thing you want is to miss a once-in-a-lifetime shot because your only card decided to act up.
Therefore, I’ve made it a habit to carry at least three cards with me on every shoot. And while it might seem excessive, it’s better to be safe than sorry!
Imagine you’re capturing a breathtaking sunset or a candid moment at a child’s birthday party. Suddenly, your camera stops working due to a card error. If you have a backup, you just switch cards and continue shooting. But without a backup, that moment is lost forever. (Of course, it’s not just about having extras; it’s also about ensuring you have enough storage to keep shooting without worries.)
For different shoots, the backup cards you choose can vary. For a casual day out, a couple of smaller capacity cards might suffice. But for a professional gig, you might want to carry a handful of larger, high-speed cards. These backups will be your photography lifeline.
By the way, one thing I’ve noticed that’s true, at least for myself: having backup cards provides immense peace of mind. When you’re focused on getting the perfect shot, the last thing you want is to worry about storage space or card failure. The backups serve as a guarantee that no matter what happens, your photography can go on uninterrupted.
2. If disaster strikes, stop shooting
If you’re in the middle of a photoshoot and you run into a memory card problem – for instance, you accidentally delete your images or see a card error message – then stop photographing immediately.
Turn off your camera, eject the card, and store it in a safe place. When you run into one of these problems, all is not lost, and you may still be able to recover the images. However, it’s important that you stop using the card; otherwise, you might overwrite the files. Data recovery services and other tools are often very effective, especially when recovering accidentally deleted files, but once an image is overwritten, then it’s often lost forever.
If you do have a memory card issue while shooting, you can always continue the session with another card. The key is to safely remove the problematic card as soon as possible.
3. Treat your cards well
It’s crucial to treat your memory cards with care, especially when you’re out in difficult conditions. In the heat of the moment, switching cards quickly might seem necessary, but it’s also essential to take the time to handle them properly. I’ve seen too many instances where a little negligence led to big problems. A few tips here:
First, always ensure your hands are clean when handling memory cards. Dirt and oils don’t mesh well will the delicate connectors. And hold the cards gently by the edges, avoiding the gold contacts. This might sound like overkill, but it’s these small habits that can prolong the life of your cards.
Another key point is to be focused when handling your cards. Distractions can lead to accidental drops, especially in outdoor environments. I’ve heard of photographers dropping cards into puddles. Don’t let that be you!
Proper storage is also vital. When not in use, keep your cards in a protective case to shield them from dust, moisture, and physical damage. Avoid extreme temperatures and magnetic sources as these can damage the data. Think of your memory cards as fragile; that way, you’ll have the best shot at preserving the images they hold.
4. Avoid deleting files one by one on your camera
Did you know that repeatedly deleting images from an in-camera card while the card is still in your camera can actually shorten that card’s life? It’s true.
The rule is that the fewer times you add or remove data on your card, the better. So instead of selectively deleting files as you shoot, aim to erase all the images at once after uploading them to your computer. That way, you delete the files in a single cycle, not one at a time.
(Or better yet, use the Format function on your camera to wipe the card before each new photoshoot!)
5. Remove cards safely from your computer
It’s tempting to connect a memory card to your computer, transfer the images, and then pull it out of the card reader slot.
But that’s an easy way to cause problems, so after uploading images to your computer, make sure you take the time to eject the card before removing it from your card reader.
(If you use a Mac, you’ll probably need to right-click the relevant drive and hit Eject. If you use a Windows PC, you’ll need to use the Safely Remove Hardware option in your system tray.)
6. Multiple small cards can be better than one big card
These days, you can grab memory cards that store 128 GB, 256 GB, and beyond. But while these products do offer significant advantages – you need to carry far fewer cards, for one! – they also come with a significant drawback: You’re reliant on one (or a few) cards to get you through lengthy photoshoots and even week-long photo adventures.
I myself learned this lesson on a recent trip; I had a memory card die on me, and if I only owned one huge card, I would’ve been unable to continue using my camera. That’s why it’s at least worth considering multi-card storage solutions (plus, if you do lose the data on one card, not all of your images from a shoot will be lost).
7. Keep your cards organized
With memory cards, a little organization can go a long way! It’s easy to mix up cards when you’re juggling multiple shoots or locations. You don’t want to reach for a card during an important shoot, only to find it full. Or worse, realize that you just formatted a card that holds valuable images.
I’ve found that a clear system can be incredibly helpful. I use a memory card case for this purpose. My fresh cards always go on the left side, and the used ones on the right. It’s simple but effective. When I’m in the field, this system saves me from second-guessing. I always know exactly where my empty cards are.
Of course, what works for me might not work for you. Some photographers prefer labeling their cards with stickers or using different colored cases. The key is consistency. Stick to your chosen method so it becomes second nature.
8. Avoid filling your cards completely
My friend recently had an issue with a memory card. When he took it into the store, the clerk asked if he’d completely filled the card with images – and when he nodded, he was told that this could occasionally cause problems with some types of cards.
Let me be clear: I’ve not heard this advice before, and I’m somewhat skeptical about it myself, but it’s probably worth keeping in mind. The advice would be to regularly take images off your cards rather than only removing images when the cards are full; this is a good idea anyway because it’ll prevent significant heartbreak if you lose the card or the files are corrupted.
9. Periodically reformat your cards
This memory card tip is quick but essential:
Reformat your memory cards every so often, and do it with your camera, not your computer. This will clean the card and get it ready for a new batch of images. Of course, you should only do this after you’ve downloaded all files – otherwise, you’ll lose them!
10. Format your memory cards in the right camera
As I discussed in the previous tip, it’s a good idea to format your memory card in a camera. But you shouldn’t format the card in just any camera; instead, make sure you format it in the camera you plan to shoot with.
For instance, if you’ve been using your card in your Canon DSLR but want to start using it in your Canon mirrorless camera, you should safely store all the images, then reformat the card when you put it in the mirrorless camera for the first time.
11. Switch off your camera before removing the memory card
Years ago, it was said that a camera could give a card “voltage shock” when the card was pulled out of the camera without first turning the camera off. But while manufacturers seem to have since made improvements in this area, it’s better to be safe than sorry! That’s why I recommend you always turn off your camera before you remove a card.
(Additionally, if your camera is on, it might still be in the process of writing images – and if you remove the card, those images may become corrupted or go unwritten.)
12. Transfer photos as soon as you can
There’s a simple rule I follow: transfer your photos as soon as possible. Why? Memory cards are reliable, but they’re not infallible. The longer your images sit on a card, the higher the risk of loss, either through card failure or misplacement.
I’ve made it a habit: every time I return from a shoot, I transfer my images to my desktop hard drives. Then, once the images are safely transferred and backed up, I delete them from the card. This routine ensures I always have a fresh card ready for my next adventure.
But there’s another reason for this habit: untransferred images are easily forgotten. You might capture an amazing moment, only to forget about its impact and relevance when it sits unseen on a card for months.
13. Keep your camera up to date
Every so often, camera manufacturers will release firmware updates, which keep your camera up to date and include fixes for errors or problems that are identified with the camera.
Some of these fixes can relate to the camera’s interaction with the memory card, so I encourage you to check for camera firmware updates every few months and download them as needed.
14. Periodically update your cards
Memory cards can last a long time – even years. However, like all electronics, they wear down with constant use, so it’s important that you update your set of cards periodically to prevent issues.
Fortunately, memory card prices are always dropping, so updating your cards has become a surprisingly inexpensive task!
15. Replace batteries before they die
When you’re on a photoshoot, it’s important that you keep an eye on your battery levels – and if the battery does get low, either pause for a recharge or swap it out for a fresh one.
You see, when a battery runs out just as you take a shot, it can prevent your camera from writing the image to your card. This can also cause card errors, so make sure you keep an eye on those batteries!
16. Don’t switch off your camera too quickly after shooting
This one really depends on your camera model. If you fire off a burst of photos, your camera will need a little time to write all of the data to the memory card – and if you switch the camera off during this process, some cameras will simply lose the images and even end up with errors.
However, recent models will continue buffering even after you switch them off (thus avoiding the problem). If you’re not sure how your camera handles the issue, check the manual or do some Googling.
17. Keep your memory cards safe
Perhaps this memory card tip should go without saying, but whenever you’re shooting, do what you can to keep your cards safe.
Make sure the cards stay dry and clean – a dedicated memory card case is perfect for this – don’t expose them to extreme temperatures, don’t drop, bend, or puncture them, and don’t expose them to electromagnetic currents.
That way, your cards remain in good condition for years!
18. Prepare your cards in case they’re lost
This last one is optional, but if you’re afraid that you might lose your camera and/or memory card, you might try taking a picture of a luggage tag or business card complete with your contact details, then keep it as the first image on each of your memory cards.
Then lock the image so it’s not deleted. If you lose your camera or card and an honest person finds it, they’ll hopefully see the image and get in touch!
How to use camera memory cards: final words
Now that you’ve finished this article, you know how to take care of your memory cards – and you’re well-equipped to prevent common card errors.
Bottom line: Having backup cards, organizing them effectively, transferring photos promptly, treating them with care, and more – these aren’t just recommendations, they’re necessities for any photographer who values their work. Implementing these habits will save you from the heartache and frustration that come with memory card mishaps.
So remember the tips I’ve shared, keep your memory cards safe, and (with a bit of luck) you won’t run into any issues.
Now over to you:
Do you have any memory card tips that I missed? Share them in the comments below!
If you’ve never participated in a photo walk before, then you’re missing out. I love photo walks, I think they’re a great idea for a host of reasons: they challenge you to use your photographic skills in a new way, they help you meet people with similar interests, and they’re a ton of fun.
The great thing about enjoying a photo walk is that it doesn’t have to be a formal, structured occasion. You can be by yourself or with a group of friends. You can wander familiar streets, or you can explore an area that is brand new. The whole point is to get you out there, explore your surroundings, exercise your creativity, and take some pictures.
Below, I delve into the photo walk – what it is, how it works, and how you can find (or create) one near you. So whether you’re planning to attend an upcoming photo walk and you’re looking for some tips to make the most out of it, or you want to better understand how you can start participating, this is an article you don’t want to miss.
What is a photo walk?
Simply put, a photo walk is an organized outing where a group of photography enthusiasts journeys through a specific area to take pictures. But it’s more than a casual stroll with a camera. These walks are an adventure in observation, a chance to see the world in a new light—quite literally.
Photo walks have become a staple activity for many photography clubs and individual photographers alike. These are communal events, attracting lens-lovers from various corners of a city or even from different cities altogether. And the settings are as diverse as the photographers themselves. While urban areas often serve as popular backdrops, given the wealth of architectural and human subjects, photo walks aren’t confined to city limits.
You can just as easily find photo walks meandering through parks filled with the colors of changing seasons or the soft, dappled light of a late afternoon. Residential areas, with their unique blend of personal and public spaces, can offer a different yet equally enriching canvas. Whether it’s the pulse of a bustling market or the serenity of a secluded nature trail, each setting offers its own set of challenges and rewards. The locale dictates the mood, and the possibilities are endless. So, whether you’re a city slicker who thrives on street photography or a nature lover aiming to catch a bird in flight, there’s a photo walk out there for you.
How to find a photo walk near you
So you’re intrigued and ready to dive into the photo walk experience. Great! But where do you start? Locating a photo walk in your vicinity is often easier than you might think. A fantastic place to begin your search is Meetup.com. This platform caters to all sorts of interests, including photography. Search for photography groups in your area and check their events calendar. Even if they don’t advertise a specific photo walk, you can always reach out to the group’s leaders. A quick message can unveil hidden opportunities.
Another method to find a nearby photo walk is a good old Google search. Try keywords like “camera clubs near me” or “local photography groups.” Once you identify a few, a short email to inquire about photo walks can go a long way. Don’t hesitate to take this step; photography communities are generally friendly and open to newcomers.
And what if your search comes up empty? Well, that might be a sign for you to take the reins and start your own photo walk. All you need is a couple of interested photographers to get the ball rolling. Use social media or photography forums to connect with local photographers. You’d be surprised how many people are interested in something like this but just need someone to take the first step. Over time, your small get-together can evolve into a larger, thriving community of avid photographers.
10 tips for the best photo walk experience
If you’re embarking on a photo walk for the first time, it’s worth taking some time to prepare. As someone who’s attended quite a few photo walks, here are my top tips for enhancing your experience:
1. Be comfortable
You’re going to be on your feet for a few hours – at least. Wear supportive shoes, weather appropriate clothing, and dress in layers in case you need to warm up or cool off.
Put on sun block (I usually leave my hat and sunglasses behind since I’m never comfortable shooting with them on), and make sure you have access to water.
2. Reduce your profile
A cumbersome bag can weigh you down both physically and creatively. Opt for pants with roomy pockets and leave the big camera bag at home. Your extra batteries? Tuck them into a pocket.
Some photographers even ditch lens caps and filters to trim down further. A cross-body strap for your camera can be a real game-changer, giving you the freedom to use your hands when you need to. Basically, just do your best to avoid carrying lots of stuff.
3. Bring only the absolute essentials
This relates to the previous photo walk tip, but it’s so important that it deserves its own section. Photo walks often last longer than a standard photoshoot session with a client – but the pressure isn’t as high, and you won’t be photographing the whole time, so keep your equipment simple.
One or two spare batteries should suffice if your camera’s battery is fully charged. A couple of memory cards should be more than enough to capture the day’s inspirations. Toss a lens cleaning cloth in your pocket, and you’re good to go. Remember, the idea is to focus on your surroundings, not fuss over gear.
4. Be confident enough to bring only one lens
Traveling light often means making choices, and the lens you choose can be a game-changer. A zoom lens with a diverse focal range, like a 70-200 or an 18-135, offers flexibility without the fuss.
And don’t worry: You won’t lose out on that dream shot. You’ll simply challenge your composition abilities. If a unique shot eludes you, mark the spot mentally. You can always return later with a different lens.
5. Leave the camera on
It may feel counterintuitive, especially if you’re concerned about battery life. But while you’re out shooting, keep your camera on to capture spontaneous moments. Those split-second opportunities often result in the most memorable shots, and some photo walk groups can move pretty fast, so it’s important to be ready at all times.
Of course, if you do plan to follow this tip, make sure you carry extra batteries. That way, you don’t have to constantly think about whether you’re going to run out of charge.
6. Bracket your shots
A tip I picked up from Jay Maisel helps ensure you nail the exposure every time. Bracket your shots. This technique minimizes the need for heavy post-processing. The closer you get it in-camera, the less time you’ll spend in front of your computer later.
Sure, this method uses more memory, so just bring extra cards. If you’re sure of your skills, consider shooting in high-quality JPEG. It saves space and eliminates the need for RAW conversion, depending on how much post-editing flexibility you’re after.
7. Walk a lot, and sit a lot
Variety is key in photography. Some shots require agility and a keen eye for details you can only spot while moving. Other shots demand stillness, giving you the chance to deeply observe from a fixed vantage point. Don’t rush. Spend some time walking and scanning your surroundings.
But also pause. Sit for a while and immerse yourself in one location. The blend of movement and stillness enriches your experience and diversifies your photo collection.
8. Bring some business cards
Networking is a big part of any creative endeavor, photography included. You never know who you might bump into while you’re out capturing the world through your lens. So, make sure to carry business cards or mini cards with your name, email, and website. (Moo offers cost-effective options for creating personalized mini cards.)
As you wander the streets clicking away, people are naturally going to be curious. They’ll want to know why you’re so focused on that rusty gate or those vibrant flowers. Let these encounters pave the way for future collaborations or simply help people reach you to request photos.
9. Be aware of your surroundings
It’s easy to get lost in the world you see through your camera’s viewfinder. I get it; it’s a captivating, almost hypnotic experience. But life is still bustling around you. Traffic flows, pedestrians rush by, and there may even be some curious wildlife.
Always keep one eye on your surroundings to ensure you’re not obstructing anyone’s path or putting yourself in a precarious situation. This awareness is not just about safety; it’s also about courtesy. A polite photographer is a remembered photographer.
10. Know your rights, and know the rules
The laws differ in every country regarding photographers and the photos you can and cannot take. Chances are you’ll never be confronted by anyone regarding the photos you’re taking, but it’s better to be educated beforehand.
Look up a civil rights or professional photography organization for your area or country and see what they have to say about a photographer’s rights. For example, in the United States, the American Civil Liberties Union has put together this page to educate photographers on their rights.
A guide to photo walks: final words
By now, you should have a solid understanding of what photo walks are and how to find or start one. Remember, photography is as much about the journey as it is about the final image. Photo walks offer an enriching blend of social interaction, skill-building, and pure, unadulterated fun.
So why wait? Grab your camera, reach out to potential photography buddies, and embark on an adventure that promises to sharpen your skills while broadening your social circle. Trust me, your camera—and your soul—will thank you.
This guest post was written by Tiffany Joyce from Beyond Megapixels and updated in October 2023 by dPS’s Managing Editor, Jaymes Dempsey.
The sky is the single most abstract and dynamic canvas that a photographer could ever encounter; for me, it’s an endless source of inspiration. Plus, the sky is ultra-accessible, and photographing clouds is just a lot of fun.
But cloud photography isn’t without its difficulties. Given how bright the sky often appears, it can be tough to nail the exposure. And your camera will often struggle to focus on clouds, especially when the sky is low in contrast.
Fortunately, there are several easy solutions to these problems, which I share in this article – along with a handful of additional tips and techniques to help you photograph clouds like a pro.
So if you’re ready to make use of the gorgeous photo opportunities that exist right above your head, then let’s dive right in!
1. Deliberately overexpose the clouds
Clouds tend to be bright white, which generally causes camera meters to go haywire. Your camera sees the bright white tone, thinks it should look a medium gray, and then dramatically underexposes the clouds in response, resulting in dull, unpleasant-looking photos that lack pop.
So instead of letting your camera do all the work, make sure you’re set up in Aperture Priority mode or Manual mode. Point your camera at the clouds, note your camera’s exposure recommendation, then boost the exposure by one to two stops.
If you’re shooting in Aperture Priority mode, simply dial in positive exposure compensation. If you’re shooting in Manual mode, then you can technically choose whether to increase your ISO, widen your aperture, or lower your shutter speed – but in general, I recommend making adjustments to your shutter speed and nothing else.
2. Seek out areas of contrast to focus
Camera AF systems often struggle to get clouds in focus. On overcast days, for instance, skies tend to be very flat and low contrast; this is an absolute nightmare, and your camera’s autofocus system will spend long seconds hunting for perfect focus (and often failing to find it).
So what do you do? You have a few options.
First, as I mentioned above, the real difficulty with autofocusing in cloud photography is contrast. If you don’t have contrast, your AF system won’t know what to do, which will lead to lots of frustration and out-of-focus photos.
So set your AF mode to AF-S (also known as One-Shot AF); this tells your AF system to find focus and then lock it. And set your AF area mode to its single-point option. You want to be able to carefully target areas of contrast.
Next, take a long look at the sky and see if you can identify any clear contrast. Carefully position your single AF point over the high-contrast edge, then half-press the shutter button to lock focus.
Finally – while keeping the focus locked! – adjust your composition until you get the result you want. When you’re ready, take the shot!
Another approach is to switch your lens over to manual focus, then carefully adjust your lens’s focus ring until the clouds look sharp. This option depends on your ability to focus manually, but if you zoom in on the LCD and you use a narrower aperture for a slight depth-of-field buffer, you can get consistently great results. It’s the slower method of focus, sure, but if your AF system is causing problems, it won’t let you down.
3. Always carry a camera
Clouds are visible everywhere, and they’re constantly changing – which means that you often have great photo opportunities forming right above your head.
So whenever you head out, make sure there’s a camera in your bag, in your car, or around your neck. You don’t want to be driving along, only to see an amazing set of clouds and be unprepared to capture it!
You can technically use any camera and lens combination for cloud photography. But if you want to capture detailed cloud shots, I’d recommend grabbing a DSLR or mirrorless camera (any recent model will be fine, and many older models will also get the job done). I’d also recommend using a telephoto lens, like a 55-200mm kit lens or a 70-200mm f/4 zoom.
The higher-quality camera will ensure that your cloud photos include plenty of beautiful color and detail, while the telephoto lens will let you zoom in and out for a mix of tighter and wider cloud shots.
4. Look for powerful compositions
If you want to capture the best cloud photography, you can’t just notice an interesting cloud, fire off a shot or two, then call it a day. Instead, you must think carefully about the composition. In particular, ask yourself:
What is it about this cloud scene that I find interesting? How can I highlight it?
How can I create a frame that feels balanced overall?
How can I change my framing to add flow?
Composition is a complex topic, but when just starting out, I encourage you to think carefully about what makes the scene feel special. Then do what you can to emphasize those features.
You can also use the rule of thirds, which encourages you to position key elements a third of the way into the frame. While the rule of thirds isn’t really a rule and it’ll occasionally give you bad results, it offers a simple layout to create balance and flow within the scene.
By the way, composition isn’t just about studying theory; it’s also about experimentation! Don’t ever feel hemmed in by composition rules and guidelines. If you notice an interesting composition, then try it and see what you can create.
5. Try a minimalist approach
Minimalism is often associated with modern art or lifestyle choices, but it has a firm place in photography, too. In cloud photography, less is often more – so instead of filling the frame with complex elements, focus on simplicity.
A few clouds set against a vast sky can be incredibly impactful. You’re not just capturing the clouds; you’re capturing a balance of clouds and negative space, which helps emphasize the subject while giving the viewer’s eye a place to rest.
Note that minimalist cloud photography can evoke a sense of calm, grandeur, or even isolation. So next time you’re out with your camera, see if you can capture just one or two clouds in a sky full of emptiness.
Pro tip: Tinker with your composition to see how positioning the clouds in different areas changes the feeling of the images. A slight reframe can turn a good photo into an unforgettable one!
6. Think about geometry
We’ve all been children once, staring at the sky and identifying cloud figures – maybe a dragon or a human face. While this is a fun exercise, I’d actually recommend you take your cloud photography in the other direction. That is, instead of thinking about objects in the clouds, think about shapes; that is, try to view them as lines, circles, or even swirls.
This geometric approach can elevate your photography from mere representation to a form of visual poetry. With practice, you’ll find yourself arranging the geometric shapes in ways that are not only visually pleasing but also emotionally resonant.
And if you’re not sure how to arrange shapes within a frame, that’s okay! Start by using the compositional techniques I described above – utilize the rule of thirds to make the geometries pop, work with negative space to make certain shapes stand out, and so on. Imagine you’re an abstract painter and the sky is your canvas. Whether you’re creating tension or harmony, your photograph will elicit more than just a cursory glance. It’ll invite viewers to pause and feel.
7. Shoot at sunrise and sunset
It might seem obvious, but if you want cloud photos that are bursting with color, make sure you head out to catch the sunrise and sunset.
As you’re undoubtedly aware, at sunrise and sunset, skies turn red, orange, purple, blue, and everything in between. It’s a great time to photograph abstract, detailed shots with a zoom lens – but it’s also a great time to shoot wider images that capture the entire scene.
Some sunrises and sunsets are more spectacular than others. In my experience, you want a decent number of clouds in the sky, but not too many. I recommend checking the weather forecast in advance, and if the sunrise or sunset times promise partly cloudy conditions, make sure to head out with that camera!
8. Photograph beams of light
Capturing light beams in your cloud photography can make such a difference. These beams, often referred to as crepuscular rays, are created when light filters through gaps in the clouds and hits dust and other particles on its way through the atmosphere. The visual result? Shafts of sunlight that pierce the sky, providing a dramatic effect.
It’s not just about randomly stumbling upon these light beams, though. You should actively seek them out. Sunrise and sunset are the best times to find crepuscular rays, plus the light during the golden hours really makes the beams pop. The sky often has a range of colors during these times, which further enhances the effect.
Note that cloud cover plays a huge role here. If the sky is too clear, there won’t be any gaps to produce the beams. On the other hand, if it’s completely overcast, the light can’t break through. Aim for a sky that’s mostly cloudy but not fully covered. You want those little gaps!
And when you do spot a light beam, be sure to act quickly. The rays last for fleeting moments, and you often have only a few minutes – or even seconds – to capture that perfect shot before the clouds move and the beam disappears. Ready your camera settings in advance so that you’re not fumbling around when an opportunity appears.
9. Photograph before and after storms
While breathtaking sunrises and sunsets are great, you can also capture amazing cloud shots in other weather.
In particular, stormy skies look amazing and offer up all sorts of cloud photography opportunities. You can create gorgeous shots before the storm begins – when the clouds are still brewing in the distance – and you can also capture amazing shots after the storm has passed through. (Maybe you’ll even get to photograph a stunning rainbow!)
You can even try shooting during the storm, but make sure you stay safe at all times, and also take steps to protect your camera equipment. If you want to capture storm clouds in peak action, consider shooting through the window of your house; that way, you get plenty of photo opportunities, but you don’t have to worry about lightning or rain.
10. Try a long-exposure technique
If you like the idea of cloud photography but want to take that abstract, fine-art look to the next level…
…then long exposures are the way to go. You see, long exposure techniques will create stunning cloud streaks, which look absolutely gorgeous.
Unless you want to shoot at night, you’ll need a neutral density filter (the darker, the better). You’ll also need a sturdy tripod and a remote release to keep your camera steady as you expose each shot.
Here’s how it works:
First, mount your camera on your tripod and select your composition. (Bear in mind that clouds will move, so once you’ve chosen a composition, you’ll need to work quickly.)
Switch your camera to Manual mode. Then dial in a longer shutter speed to capture the cloud movement. Next, set your camera’s lowest ISO; finally, pick your aperture based on exposure considerations. (In other words, choose the aperture value so that you can capture a bright – but not too bright! – image.) Then use a remote release to trigger the shutter.
What shutter speed is ideal? That depends on the speed of the clouds and your focal length, so you’ll need to do some experimentation. However, 20 seconds is a good starting point; I encourage you to take a few shots, check the results on your camera LCD, then adjust the shutter speed accordingly. Eventually, you’ll hit on a speed that works, and you’ll end up with some amazing fine-art cloud photos!
11. Don’t be afraid to include foreground subjects
We often get so engrossed in capturing clouds that we forget the rest of the frame, and this often works great – it allows the viewer to focus on the clouds with zero distractions. That said, it’s okay to sometimes include other elements. By including a foreground subject, you can make your cloud photography not just about the sky but also about its relationship with the earth, and you can also elevate your compositions.
For instance, a solitary bird flying through the sky can add depth to a shot. It gives the audience an anchor point, a place to rest their eyes before they wander back to the clouds. So if you spot a bird soaring through the sky, don’t hesitate. Capture the moment!
Objects on the ground can also add flair to your cloud images. Think tree branches or flowers waving in the wind. They make the clouds look grander and more expansive, though caution is key. You’re still aiming to capture the beauty of the clouds, so make sure the foreground elements don’t dominate the frame. It’s all about balance!
12. Post-process your cloud photography
While it’s always important to nail the exposure, select the composition, and optimize the image quality in-camera, you can also dramatically improve your cloud photos with some careful processing.
I’d recommend using a program like Lightroom, but any basic editing software will do. Once you import a new image, make sure you:
And those are just the basics! You can also adjust specific colors using an HSL tool, add interesting hues via a color-grading or split-toning panel, and even dodge and burn with adjustment brushes. At the end of the day, you have to decide how much you actually want to tweak your photos, but a little editing can go a long way.
13. Learn about the different cloud formations
Imagine enjoying a glass of wine without knowing its origin or blend. Sure, it might be tasty, but knowing the details enriches the experience, and the same goes for cloud photography. Understanding what you’re capturing elevates it from a visual experience to a more in-depth one.
You don’t need a degree in meteorology to appreciate the difference between cloud formations, and you don’t need to read dozens of textbooks, either. Instead, just spend some time looking at cloud ID guides, and see what you can learn!
And as you study, think about what each cloud type adds to your shots. Cloud formations can indicate specific weather patterns, but they can also dramatically change the mood of your photos.
So get curious. Learn the basics. I guarantee that the more you know about clouds, the more you’ll want to spend time photographing. Plus, once you get the hang of identifying different types of clouds, you can start to predict the kinds of clouds that will appear in advance, which can certainly come in handy!
Cloud photography tips: final words
I love photographing clouds – and I’m guessing you do, too! (If you don’t already, you will soon!) Clouds are amazing subjects, and they offer plenty of breathtaking photo opportunities.
So remember the tips I’ve shared. Spend plenty of time practicing. And appreciate the sky!
Now over to you:
What type of cloud photos do you plan on taking? Do you have any additional tips that I missed? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
Ryan Cooper is the founder and president of jitZul.
jitZul is an online resource and company dedicated to helping aspiring artists market and monetize their creative talent so that they can turn their passion into a career.
This article was updated in January 2025 with contributions from Kaspars Grinvalds, Karen Quist, and Darlene Hildebrandt.
Want to know how to pose men so your portraits consistently shine? Posing men isn’t especially difficult, yet many beginner portrait photographers struggle to produce nice, clean, high-quality results – and that’s where we come in.
In this article, we share 21 male posing ideas, ranging from simple, beginner-focused ideas to complex options for experienced photographers. We include a mix of styles, including corporate, informal, fashion, and more – so no matter your preferred genre of photography, you’re bound to find a pose or two that works.
Plus, we offer a handful of expert tips for male portrait photography; that way, you can confidently handle your future photoshoots!
Let’s dive right in.
How to pose men: 21 ideas
Without further ado, here are 21 outstanding male poses that practically guarantee stunning results:
1. Upper body with crossed arms
Let’s start with a very simple male pose:
Ask your subject to stand up straight, cross their arms, turn one shoulder slightly away, bring their chin toward the camera, and smile.
It works for plenty of portrait styles: informal (e.g., family portraits or senior portraits), business portraits, and even fashion shots.
Two things to watch: The shoulders should be pulled back a little, and the stomach muscles should be kept in check.
2. Full body with crossed arms
Crossed arms work in full-height shots, as well.
So use the same posing guidelines as above, then ask your subject to cross one leg in front of the other. But make sure the body weight is not supported equally on both legs; that will look awkward!
This pose is especially nice for informal photoshoots, such as a family portrait session.
3. One hand on a hip
A recurring question from your subject might be, “Where should I put my hands?”
But while hands are often a point of confusion and awkwardness, the solution is actually quite simple. There are four places a subject can position their hands, and they can be mixed and matched in any combination:
Loosely by the side
On the hips
In the pockets
Crossed on the chest
Note that hands should always be relaxed, which means no muscle pressure (unless you’re photographing a bodybuilder!)
For this pose, the man should put one hand on his hip, stand square to the camera, and let the other hand dangle loosely – though feel free to experiment with different hand positions, too!
4. Full body with hands in the pockets
Here’s another casual pose for a man standing upright.
Ask your subject to square his body to the camera, with his weight equally distributed on both legs and his nose pointed at the lens. In general, I recommend that the hands go in the pants pockets, thumbs out; this is a surefire way to achieve a natural and relaxed pose. However, you can use jacket pockets, too!
5. Clothes over the shoulder
This pose is a bit edgier and fashion-conscious. It can work for corporate or fashion shots but should be avoided during family and senior portraits.
Ask your subject to cross one leg over the other, look at the camera, hook a thumb in their pocket, and throw an item of clothing – such as a suit jacket – over their shoulder. The more casual and relaxed they look, the better!
6. Sitting with one ankle on the knee
Sitting poses tend to be pretty casual, and this one is no exception. Provide your subject with a block or a chair, then ask them to cross their arms and lift one ankle over their knee.
For the best results, shoot slightly from above.
7. Leaning back against the wall
This is one of my favorite upright poses, simply because it’s ultra-easy and looks really great.
Just have your model put their back to a wall and casually recline. Their hands can go in their pockets, and – for a bit of additional flair – ask them to put one foot against the wall (while the other stays flat against the floor).
8. Leaning sideways against the wall
This is a variation on the above pose. Simply ask your model to turn so one shoulder presses against the wall, then encourage them to cross their legs.
While you can certainly use a hands-in-the-pockets look, try asking your subject to cross their arms instead. Crossed arms are more formal and work well for business portraits.
9. Upper body with an item in the hand
This one’s a very simple pose for a business portrait. Ask your subject to face the camera with one hand in their pocket and the other dangling freely, an item held in the hand (e.g., a laptop, a book, or even a tool).
(If possible, ensure that the items are clear indicators of the subject’s occupation.)
10. Sitting on a desk
Here, you’ll need a relatively sturdy desk. Ask your subject to sit firmly on the edge; you’ll get a very relaxed, yet professional, result. You can experiment with different hand positions, but hands in the pockets or resting on top of the legs works great.
11. Sitting at a desk
Here’s another simple male pose for a business portrait: A man sitting at a desk.
Ask your subject to sit forward slightly. You might also have him rest his chin on his hand while letting the other arm sit on the desk surface. Alternatively, you can have him place his hands together for a more relaxed look.
To reveal the subject’s profession, place work-related items around his arms, such as books, charts, or tools.
12. Sitting at a desk, one arm up
This is another business-style portrait, but with a little extra flair. Ask your subject to sit at a desk and lean forward slightly – but one arm should come across the desk in a V-shape, while the other should fade back.
When done properly, your subject’s shoulder should tilt toward the camera, and their nose should follow.
13. Turned in a chair (away from a desk)
To show the work environment while removing the distance created by a foreground desk, flip the shot around. Ask your subject to sit in their desk chair, but spin around so that they face the camera.
One hand can go on the desk, while the other arm can dangle off the chair. The result?
Formal and inviting.
14. Arms crossed on a desk
Continuing with the desk theme, this composition puts the desk off to the side, with your subject leaning forward, arms crossed on the desk surface.
Ask your subject to tilt one shoulder toward the camera, while pointing their nose at the lens. Again, you could place work-related items on the desk to hint at the subject’s profession.
15. Standing next to a chair
Chairs are great props, and they can easily make a portrait both engaging and interesting. So ask your subject to stand upright with their legs crossed. Add in the chair, then encourage them to place one hand on its back, the other in their pocket.
Professional looking? Yes. But also fun, eye-catching, and a little bit suave.
16. Relaxed in a chair
If you’re taking corporate or even fashion portraits and your subject is struggling to get comfortable in front of the lens, why not make them comfortable – literally?
Just ask them to sit in a chair, lean back, smile, and cross one leg. Later, you can move on to more complex poses, but you’re bound to get a good shot or two out of this simple idea!
17. Sitting on the ground
For business-style portraits, this type of pose is best avoided. But if you’re doing family photo sessions, senior portraits, or another type of informal shot, you’ll love the casual, relaxed images you can capture.
Simply ask your subject to sit on the ground, one arm holding them up from behind and the other dangling over the knee. You might also try a leg cross (as pictured below), as well as other shooting directions and angles.
18. Reclining on the ground
Here’s another variant of a man’s pose while sitting on the ground. Ask your subject to sit, then to lie back while supporting his weight with one arm.
Unlike the male pose displayed above, the subject’s second arm should dangle behind. And make sure the upper arm is completely hidden – otherwise, the shot may turn out a tad awkward.
19. Sitting on the ground with arms over knees
This one’s an easy and relaxed pose for a sitting man. It works well for family portraits, senior photoshoots, and other informal purposes, though it’s best avoided for serious corporate photos.
Ask your subject to sit on the ground with one leg out (knee bent!) and the other leg tucked slightly under the opposite calve. Have them bend forward and rest their forearms on their knees.
20. Reclining against a wall
Here’s one final informal male posing idea, and while it may feel overly relaxed for certain situations (even senior portraits), it’s a great fit for more carefree subjects.
Ask your subject to sit on the ground, supporting their back against a wall, a rock, or even a tree. Encourage them to lean back in a resting pose and bring one leg back while leaving the other straight. You can experiment with different hand positions, though I’d recommend using the illustration as a starting point:
21. Close-up headshot
This is a male pose that never fails, no matter your intent. Corporate, senior portrait, website shot – the close-up headshot won’t let you down.
Ask your subject to sit forward and rest their elbows on a solid surface such as a desk. The hands should overlap loosely and rest comfortably next to your subject’s chin. Test out different head positions, though begin with a look straight toward the camera.
Oh, and one last tip: Never be afraid to crop around your model’s face!
Tips for posing and photographing men
Of course, even once you have plenty of ideas for posing men, you need to know how to approach a male photography session – and you also need to know how to think about posing more generally. In this section, I share my best tips and tricks for great shots, including:
How to create flattering male poses
How to keep men engaged in the photography process
How to get the best results when retouching your portraits
Much more!
1. Include him in the consultation process
One of the most common complaints I encounter on portrait photography forums is that men tend to be very reluctant when involved in family photoshoots. They turn up to the family shoot looking like it’s the last place on earth they want to be, and their crankiness is infectious. Pretty soon, everyone is annoyed, and it makes your job of capturing all those joyful family connections close to impossible.
I confess that this was also one of my bugbears – until I realized a problem. You see, I was often leaving male partners out of the consultation process. And in every grumpy dad case I encountered, I mistakenly assumed that the woman I spoke with during the consultation would communicate everything to their partner and communicate any concerns their partner might have.
Following a major light-bulb moment, I started to include men in the consultations, and it made a world of difference. As it turned out, my male clients just wanted to be heard! The more you engage with men before the shoot, the more comfortable they will be when you’re wielding a camera, and the better the photos will turn out. (This applies whether you’re photographing a paying client, the guy next door, or your brother.)
So before you conduct a photoshoot that involves a man, talk with him. Ask him if he has any features he’s sensitive about (a prominent nose, a double chin, acne scarring, and a bit of a tummy are common sensitive areas). Allow him to express his insecurities without feeling silly, and reassure him that you can work around these via posing, camera angles, lighting, and post-processing.
Ask him what kind of clothes he feels good in, and make sure he understands how these may work for or against him in photographs. Tread gently; if it’s a family session, there’s a good chance his partner is already on his case.
Finally, if a man makes the effort to dress well for your photoshoot, show him the same respect by paying attention to detail in the editing process. Zoom in close and check for stray hairs his razor may have missed, loose threads, and even smudges left by a child’s fingers.
2. Find purpose and meaning
Before conducting your session, ask the man why he wants the photos taken. If it’s an individual portrait, what is he using it for? If it’s for professional purposes, what kind of work does he do? What kind of look does he want? Then tailor your compositions accordingly.
If he’s a passionate kite-surfing instructor, he may not appreciate a moody black-and-white portrait; instead, he’s much more likely to want an image full of color and action. On the other hand, a budding author may love the black-and-white look!
If you’re doing a family shoot, ask him questions about the family. It sounds like a no-brainer, but you’d be surprised at how often this important step is missed. What does the family like to do together? What is special about his partner? What does he love most about his child or grandchild? Dig deep, and listen to his answers. You’ll appreciate what he reveals, and you can incorporate the insights into your photos.
The image below shows dad with my eldest daughter, and it’s one of my personal favorites. He told me he loves the fact that, even though she is a teenager, she still takes his hand or his arm when they go for walks together through the forest near his home. I like how the arch of the trees frames them. To me, it suggests they are walking toward the future together.
The man in the photos below told me that he marvels at the smallness of his new daughter’s hands and feet. Like many young dads, he is at a very busy stage in his professional life. Often his baby is asleep by the time he gets home at night, so he cherishes the quiet moments they get to spend together.
The photo below features two cousins. They played together as children but have lived on separate continents since their families emigrated from their native country when they were young. I was astonished by how similar their gestures and body language were despite having lived apart for most of their lives, and I wanted to capture that in a photograph. The ocean is symbolic in this photo; though it usually separates them, when I pressed the shutter, they were both on the same side of it.
3. Give him something to lean against or sit on
Regardless of the amount of time you spend preparing, many men are profoundly uncomfortable in front of a camera, especially at the start of a shoot. And if your subject feels uncomfortable, that will come through in the photos, resulting in stiff, awkward, less-than-optimal shots.
So start by asking your subject how they feel in front of the camera. Observe their body language, too, as you take your first few shots. If your subject does seem awkward just standing, ask them to lean against a vertical surface such as a wall, fence, lamppost, or car. It will help them feel anchored and will allow them to angle their body without looking unnatural.
Another option is to find something for them to sit on, like a chair, a bench, or even a rock. You’ll be surprised by how easily it helps your subject relax.
4. Minimize a double chin, a prominent nose, or heavy jowls
Men often have certain features they prefer to deemphasize. It’s important to ask them about this in the consultation process; encourage them to be honest, and ensure that they feel safe sharing these insecurities with you. Often, the list will include double chins, prominent noses, and heavy jowls, so you should take steps to minimize these in your photos.
One way to hide a double chin is to shoot from above eye level with your subject leaning slightly forward. If he’s seated, ask him to rest his forearms on his thighs and angle his knees 45° away from you.
You can also use lighting to your advantage. Strong, directional light can visually slim a face or a torso – it’s a trick that often comes in handy!
The photo on the left was shot from below eye level (the subject was taller than me and was standing) with light falling on both sides of his face. But the photo on the right, where my subject was seated and leaning forward with their head angled away from the camera, is more flattering. Note how strong light reflected off a wall in the late afternoon casts his neck and the left side of his face into shadow.
5. Give him something to do with his hands
When people are facing a camera with their arms hanging down at their sides, they suddenly become self-conscious. “What should I do with my hands?” they ask. And they’re onto something: Dangly hands generally don’t look good! So what do you do?
Instead of letting the hands hang awkwardly, ask him to put one or both hands in his pockets or loop his thumb over his belt. If he’s sitting, have him interlink his fingers or clasp his hands together. If you’re doing a family photoshoot, have him hold a baby or clasp a child’s hand.
You might also consider adding props (depending on the type of male photoshoots you’re conducting). For instance, your subject could hold a book (if he’s an author), a guitar (if he’s a musician), or even an umbrella (if you’re going for a moodier image).
6. Pay attention to the little details
Details such as eyes, lips, and hands help tell a story, and they often depict the connections between people. Of course, you should make sure to get all the wider shots – but don’t forget to zoom in every so often (a close-focusing lens is a big help here) and capture the details, even if they don’t seem like showstopping portrait material.
Hands are a personal favorite of mine. They’re a powerful expression of emotional connection and tenderness, and because of their size, men’s hands are often visually striking when placed side by side with the hands of children.
The portrait below shows a tender and playful moment between father and daughter. His hand is large next to hers, and she smiles as he kisses milk froth from her fingertips.
7. Don’t forget about retouching
Let’s face it: Cameras can be brutal. They do a great job of capturing all those little imperfections the naked eye generally doesn’t see, and they hold it in a static image for the eye to contemplate.
In some styles of male portraiture, this is actually useful. Elderly men with craggy faces are popular subjects for travel photographers and photojournalists. However, wrinkles and blemishes are not something you want to highlight in family photos or corporate headshots, so it’s important that you spend some time removing or minimizing these items in the editing room.
Men will give you hints during the consultation and the shoot. If he cracks jokes such as, “Can you Photoshop me to make me look 10 years younger?” or “Can you make me look like George Clooney?” he’s probably only half-kidding. Just because he’s a man doesn’t mean he’s okay with acne or out-of-place nose hairs.
Now, when it comes to editing, much will depend on your personal style. While I’m not a fan of heavily edited portraits, I still follow a careful Lightroom workflow. With men, I use the Brush tool to soften skin, but the effect is always subtle (his skin probably shouldn’t appear softer than a woman’s or child’s skin in the same photo).
When it comes to blemishes, my rule of thumb is to remove anything that is temporary. Pimples, scratches, stray hairs – if it’s going to be gone from his face in a couple of weeks, I’ll remove it from his face in the post-processing stage. But unless the client specifically asked me to, I wouldn’t remove a mole or a birthmark.
Additional resources for posing men
Looking for additional advice on creating amazing male poses? First, check out this hands-on video from Adorama; in it, expert portrait photographer Emily Teague walks you through the basics of masculine posing:
In this second video by Creative Live, instructor Jeff Rojas talks about body language and things to watch for, and also to avoid when posing males. Do you know what clenched fists or hands below the belt line mean? Watch this clip and find out.
Finally, give this Jerry Ghionis video a watch. Yes, it’s long, but the tips that Jerry provides are invaluable, and he does an amazing job of showing exactly what you need to do for top-notch male poses.
How to pose men: final words
Hopefully, you now have a starting point for your male poses! Remember that there are no absolutes; each sample pose might and should be adjusted depending on your shooting environment and scenario. There is no need to overdo anything.
In reality, all you need for good people portraits is simplicity:
Simple backgrounds, simple clothing, simple poses, and natural expressions.
Now over to you:
Do you have any tips for posing men that I missed? Any favorite male poses? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
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Give him something to lean against or sit on”},{“id”:”minimize-a-double-chin-a-prominent-nose-or-heavy-jowls”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”4. Minimize a double chin, a prominent nose, or heavy jowls”},{“id”:”give-him-something-to-do-with-his-hands”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”5. Give him something to do with his hands”},{“id”:”pay-attention-to-the-little-details”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”6. Pay attention to the little details”},{“id”:”dont-forget-about-retouching”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”7. Don’t forget about retouching”},{“id”:”additional-resources-for-posing-men”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”Additional resources for posing men”},{“id”:”how-to-pose-men-final-words”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”How to pose men: final words”}] };
This article was updated in November 2023 with contributions by Kav Dadfar, Ana Mireles, and Jaymes Dempsey.
Museums offer incredible opportunities for photography; you can capture paintings, sculptures, educational displays, architecture, people interacting with exhibits, and so much more.
Unfortunately, while museum photography can look great, it’s tough to get right. Due to the large crowds, reflective glass, and low light, it’s easy to come home from a museum with a batch full of blurry, muddy, distraction-filled photos.
So how do you capture amazing photos at museums? Simply follow the nine tips I share below, which explain how to handle crowds, how to keep your shots sharp, how to deal with reflections on the glass, and so much more.
Let’s get started!
1. Check the rules
Before planning a photography trip to a museum, I highly recommend you start by checking the rules. Make sure you’re actually allowed to photograph inside the museum – not all museums are so photography-friendly! – and determine whether photography is off-limits in certain areas.
If photography is banned, you can always try contacting the museum and asking for permission, but don’t be surprised if you get rejected; photography can cause safety issues, and the flash can damage works of art, so museum staff likely won’t be so accommodating.
Note: Even if a museum does allow photography, you may not be allowed to capture commercial photos, and you may also encounter certain equipment restrictions. Tripods, for instance, are a big no-no at many museums, so make sure you read the rules carefully. You don’t want to prepare for a museum shoot, only to arrive and have your tripod confiscated.
Bottom line: Before capturing some museum photos, make sure you know what’s off-limits. The restrictions are created for a reason, so regardless of the situation, never intentionally break rules.
2. Consider what you want to convey
When it comes to museum photography, it’s easy to simply walk on through, point your camera at each exhibit, and press that shutter button. However, most folks will get bored after viewing just a few photos of a museum – so instead of trying to document everything, I encourage you to really think about what you want to convey to the viewer.
For instance, do you want to emphasize the movement and engagement that occurs inside a museum? Then use a wide-angle lens to capture the main hall with all of its hustle and bustle. Do you want to impress the viewer with the intricate details of a single artifact? Then get up close and exclude all other objects from the frame.
Every museum is different, and thinking about its key attributes can help you decide what you want to highlight. You might also consider researching the museum in advance; look to understand the architecture, the exhibits, and the overall feeling of the place, then hone in on what interests you most.
That way, instead of producing hundreds of lackluster documentary-type shots, you can come away with two or three key images that really showcase the venue and its exhibits in your own unique style.
3. Don’t forget about the building!
Museums are teeming with incredible works of art, historical pieces, and/or flashy exhibits – so it’s easy to forget that they are often housed in some of the most amazing buildings in the world. Think of the Louvre in Paris, the Natural History Museum in London, or the Guggenheim in New York, and you’ll know what I mean.
In my view, the buildings are as much a part of the experience as the attractions inside, so you should absolutely spend some time exploring the museum architecture in addition to the artifacts and exhibits. I’d recommend doing a little research on the building before you go; that way, you can note any specific elements of cultural or historical importance. These small details are often missed by people (and photographers!) who focus on the main attractions, so by seeking them out, you can capture some uniquely powerful shots.
Make sure to photograph both the museum’s interior and exterior. When working indoors, pay attention to ceilings, columns, and doorways, all of which can make for beautiful images. And when you’re photographing outdoors, try to work during the early morning or late evening, when the light is soft and golden.
You can also try photographing the museum facade after dark, which will give you the opportunity to combine a moody atmosphere with beautiful artificial lighting:
4. Take steps to eliminate reflections
Have you ever tried to photograph a museum display that’s behind glass? It’s tough. If you’re not careful, you’ll end up with reflections in your final shot, and while you can reduce these in post-processing, it’s much better to get it right in the field.
So what do you do?
First, turn off your flash. Otherwise, it’ll bounce off the glass and create an unpleasant white glow somewhere in the image.
Next, make sure you’re using a lens hood. A rubber hood is best, though you can make do with a plastic hood, too (and in a pinch, you can simply drape a coat over the front of your lens).
Finally, move your lens as close to the glass as possible. You’ll want to keep your front lens element parallel to the display, and you’ll want to keep any gap between the lens and the glass covered by the lens hood.
If you follow each of the above steps, you’ll eliminate most (or even all) reflections, and you’ll end up with images like this one here (yes, it was shot through the glass!):
5. Adjust your settings or stabilize your camera
Museum exhibits are sometimes kept dark for added ambiance or for purposes of preservation, and even when exhibits are fully lit, the artificial lighting often isn’t much compared to outdoor lighting. As a result, your museum photography will turn out unpleasantly underexposed or extremely blurry – unless you change your camera settings to compensate for the low light.
Specifically, you’ll want to switch your camera to Aperture Priority or Manual mode, then boost your ISO until you can keep your shutter speed at 1/80s or above. Yes, a high ISO will increase image noise, but most modern cameras can go up to ISO 800, ISO 1600, and beyond without significant reduction in image quality, so as long as you only raise your ISO as necessary, you should be okay. (Also, it’s better to capture a noisy image than a blurry one!)
As I noted above, you’ll want to keep your shutter speed at 1/80s or above – otherwise, your images will likely turn out consistently soft – but you’ll need to take steps to keep your body stabilized. While 1/80s is fast enough for sharp handholding when using a wider lens, it’s important to use proper technique (hold in your elbows, cup your lens with one hand, keep your camera close to your face, etc.).
That said, if the museum does allow tripods, then I encourage you to use one! You can also try resting your camera on a table or a bench, which is another great way to capture sharp shots while using ultra-low shutter speeds.
6. Try to get creative
Museums aren’t exactly new, and museum photography has been going on for decades – so it’s your job, as a photographer, to showcase what people have seen and captured a thousand times from a new perspective.
How can you do this? I’d start by adjusting your viewpoint. See if you can photograph an exhibit or hall from high up (by shooting from a balcony) or from low down (by kneeling down and shooting upward with a wide-angle lens).
I’d also encourage you to look for the little details: shadows, reflections, and even moments of interaction between the visitors and the artifacts. Small details often go unnoticed, yet they can be full of meaning and beauty.
Finally, you can try out various creative techniques. If tripods are allowed in the building, try to capture a long-exposure photo that hints at the movement of the museum’s visitors. If the museum is full of artifacts, try to use shooting-through composition techniques (where you position an out-of-focus element in the image foreground) to give the viewer a sense of immersion within the scene. Make sense?
7. Choose your composition carefully
When photographing art or an artifact in a museum, don’t try to just reproduce it; if all you want is a record shot, it’s generally just better to buy the postcard or the catalog.
Instead, think about what the piece is transmitting to you. Consider going wide: show the architecture of the gallery, make it interact with the other pieces of the exhibition, and try to capture the ambiance.
In other words, make it your own. Notice how in this next example, I didn’t photograph any specific artwork, just the space and the atmosphere:
Rijksmuseum van Oudheden, Leiden, the Netherlands. (Image by Ana Mireles)
8. Avoid crowds with research and patience
As any museum photographer knows, one of the main issues when capturing images of exhibits and halls is the crowds.
After all, museums are designed as tourist destinations, and as such, they’re often very busy. Try to capture a photo of a famous sculpture, and you’ll generally end up with dozens of people fragmented throughout the frame.
Fortunately, I have a few handy tips to prevent crowds from encroaching on your shots:
First, head to the museum on days and times when things are quieter. If you attend during the week and take care to avoid school vacations, you can often avoid visitors. And if you come early in the morning, you may get whole rooms to yourself! You might also try heading to the museum between around 11 and 2, as many tour groups eat lunch during these times. (Locals can sometimes offer this kind of insight.)
Second, spend some time photographing the less-popular portions of the museum – the back rooms, the permanent third-floor exhibits, etc. These areas are often quieter, but that doesn’t mean they’re any less worthy of photos!
Third, if you find an area you desperately want to photograph but you can’t seem to shake the tourists, just take a breath. Even in the busiest of venues, if you wait long enough, you’ll eventually find a gap in the flow of traffic. You’ll ultimately capture the shot you want, but you’ll need to give yourself plenty of time; patience is key!
Fourth, don’t be afraid to include people in your photo. Just be sure to wait until the right moment so that they complement your image!
9. Keep copyright considerations in mind
Last but not least, there is something that you won’t see on the museum signs, but it exists and it’s very important: the issue of copyright.
While getting inspiration from others is great, remember that you are photographing the work of a fellow artist, so it is covered by copyright. This can apply to artwork being exhibited as well as to the architecture of the museum, so it can be a very complicated issue to understand.
I encourage you to inform yourself in greater depth. A general rule of thumb is that you can’t use an image for commercial purposes without permission from the creator. And if you’re using the image for educational purposes, you should always give credit to the creator. Let’s be respectful of one another!
Museum photography tips: final words
Museums are often beautiful and are certainly key sights in most areas, so they should be on every photographer’s shot list.
And while museum photography can be tough for beginners, just remember the tips I’ve shared, approach each new museum carefully, and stay creative. You’re bound to capture some amazing photos!
Now over to you:
What museums do you plan to photograph? Which of these tips will you use? Share your thoughts in the comments below!