Well, yes and no. I believe that if you’re simply a hobbyist and you’re not to worried about ever losing data on a card then it’s not going to make much difference if you get a pricey card or a cheap card. Though I would also suggest if you always get cheap cards, get small ones that don’t store too much data, that way, when, not if they fail, you don’t lose too many photos or videos.
There is an old saying, that goes “there are too kinds of digital storage, those that have failed and those that haven’t failed yet”. Cheaper and more expensive cards can both fail, they are both physical manufactured things. But the difference I have often found is that with some products that cost more, you’re not just paying for how they perform but also how the company that makes them performs when something goes wrong.
I have been exceptionally luck over the years, that I haven’t had more than 2-3 horror stories of hard drives or memory cards failing on me. Though most of the times when they have failed it hasn’t been a huge horror story as I am fanatical about backup, but that is for another article.
I got my first set of ProGrade memory cards back in 2020. I was sent them for long term review and I think 5 years later definitely counts as long term. I got sent 1x V90 128gig and 1x V90 256gig and have been using them solidly for 4 or so years since. Not only that, but those two worked so well for me that I also bought 3 more of the 256gig cards.
I’ve have used them on countless projects for my production company as well as my Youtube channel over these last few years, they have captured probably thousands of hours of 4K and 6K high bitrate content, in some pretty challenging conditions and never missed a beat.
I’ve used them in cameras ranging from Sony, Panasonic, Canon and Nikon.
Even though I’ve never really needed to make use of ProGrade’s support, they have some pretty useful features. They have a free app you can download for Mac or Windows called PreFresh Pro which you can use to check your cards health. After all my cards have been though they all still show as 99.9% healthy. The app suggests that if you card gets down by 10% then you should look at replacing it as soon as possible.
You can also “Sanitise” your cards with the ReFresh app which will wipe then clean, but also optimise them for best speed and use. Though I’ve never really noticed the cards having any issues with speed on read or write. Please note that you do need to use a ProGrade card reader in order for the app to recognise your cards and work with them. Also even though the software is free, you do need to “order it” via their website. I am assuming they do this to limit the bandwidth of people downloading it over and over again from them website.
ProGrade also sell a $49 USD app called Recovery Pro for recovering lost data from a card. Of course this will depend on what has gone wrong with the card if you can get anything off it or not. So your mileage will vary, but it’s nice that they sell an option for this. Also note the purchase price is for a one year licence only, but they do have a free evaluation copy you can use to scan your files and see if they app thinks it can recovery anything you can use before you buy.
Thankfully, I’ve never had the need for that app and fingers crossed I never will.
In conclusion, even though I generally hesitate to ever outright recommending something, I have no hesitation outright recommending the ProGrade SD cards. I’ve not used any of their other cards, but from the last 5 years of my experience with these cards, they work every time and have never given me any issues. Which is pretty much all you want from a memory card, isn’t it?
Memory cards are an essential part of digital photography. They record your precious files and keep them safe until you’re able to transfer them to your (hopefully) full-fledged storage solution – which means that it’s essential that you understand how to use memory cards correctly.
After all, a properly cared-for memory card will often perform flawlessly for years – while a poorly looked-after card will be prone to errors, corruption, and loss of files.
In this article, I share 18 tips for keeping your memory cards in good condition. I explain how you should correctly eject your cards, how often (and when) you should format your cards, and more.
Let’s dive right in!
1. Carry backup cards whenever you shoot
Card failure is unpredictable, and the last thing you want is to miss a once-in-a-lifetime shot because your only card decided to act up.
Therefore, I’ve made it a habit to carry at least three cards with me on every shoot. And while it might seem excessive, it’s better to be safe than sorry!
Imagine you’re capturing a breathtaking sunset or a candid moment at a child’s birthday party. Suddenly, your camera stops working due to a card error. If you have a backup, you just switch cards and continue shooting. But without a backup, that moment is lost forever. (Of course, it’s not just about having extras; it’s also about ensuring you have enough storage to keep shooting without worries.)
For different shoots, the backup cards you choose can vary. For a casual day out, a couple of smaller capacity cards might suffice. But for a professional gig, you might want to carry a handful of larger, high-speed cards. These backups will be your photography lifeline.
By the way, one thing I’ve noticed that’s true, at least for myself: having backup cards provides immense peace of mind. When you’re focused on getting the perfect shot, the last thing you want is to worry about storage space or card failure. The backups serve as a guarantee that no matter what happens, your photography can go on uninterrupted.
2. If disaster strikes, stop shooting
If you’re in the middle of a photoshoot and you run into a memory card problem – for instance, you accidentally delete your images or see a card error message – then stop photographing immediately.
Turn off your camera, eject the card, and store it in a safe place. When you run into one of these problems, all is not lost, and you may still be able to recover the images. However, it’s important that you stop using the card; otherwise, you might overwrite the files. Data recovery services and other tools are often very effective, especially when recovering accidentally deleted files, but once an image is overwritten, then it’s often lost forever.
If you do have a memory card issue while shooting, you can always continue the session with another card. The key is to safely remove the problematic card as soon as possible.
3. Treat your cards well
It’s crucial to treat your memory cards with care, especially when you’re out in difficult conditions. In the heat of the moment, switching cards quickly might seem necessary, but it’s also essential to take the time to handle them properly. I’ve seen too many instances where a little negligence led to big problems. A few tips here:
First, always ensure your hands are clean when handling memory cards. Dirt and oils don’t mesh well will the delicate connectors. And hold the cards gently by the edges, avoiding the gold contacts. This might sound like overkill, but it’s these small habits that can prolong the life of your cards.
Another key point is to be focused when handling your cards. Distractions can lead to accidental drops, especially in outdoor environments. I’ve heard of photographers dropping cards into puddles. Don’t let that be you!
Proper storage is also vital. When not in use, keep your cards in a protective case to shield them from dust, moisture, and physical damage. Avoid extreme temperatures and magnetic sources as these can damage the data. Think of your memory cards as fragile; that way, you’ll have the best shot at preserving the images they hold.
4. Avoid deleting files one by one on your camera
Did you know that repeatedly deleting images from an in-camera card while the card is still in your camera can actually shorten that card’s life? It’s true.
The rule is that the fewer times you add or remove data on your card, the better. So instead of selectively deleting files as you shoot, aim to erase all the images at once after uploading them to your computer. That way, you delete the files in a single cycle, not one at a time.
(Or better yet, use the Format function on your camera to wipe the card before each new photoshoot!)
5. Remove cards safely from your computer
It’s tempting to connect a memory card to your computer, transfer the images, and then pull it out of the card reader slot.
But that’s an easy way to cause problems, so after uploading images to your computer, make sure you take the time to eject the card before removing it from your card reader.
(If you use a Mac, you’ll probably need to right-click the relevant drive and hit Eject. If you use a Windows PC, you’ll need to use the Safely Remove Hardware option in your system tray.)
6. Multiple small cards can be better than one big card
These days, you can grab memory cards that store 128 GB, 256 GB, and beyond. But while these products do offer significant advantages – you need to carry far fewer cards, for one! – they also come with a significant drawback: You’re reliant on one (or a few) cards to get you through lengthy photoshoots and even week-long photo adventures.
I myself learned this lesson on a recent trip; I had a memory card die on me, and if I only owned one huge card, I would’ve been unable to continue using my camera. That’s why it’s at least worth considering multi-card storage solutions (plus, if you do lose the data on one card, not all of your images from a shoot will be lost).
7. Keep your cards organized
With memory cards, a little organization can go a long way! It’s easy to mix up cards when you’re juggling multiple shoots or locations. You don’t want to reach for a card during an important shoot, only to find it full. Or worse, realize that you just formatted a card that holds valuable images.
I’ve found that a clear system can be incredibly helpful. I use a memory card case for this purpose. My fresh cards always go on the left side, and the used ones on the right. It’s simple but effective. When I’m in the field, this system saves me from second-guessing. I always know exactly where my empty cards are.
Of course, what works for me might not work for you. Some photographers prefer labeling their cards with stickers or using different colored cases. The key is consistency. Stick to your chosen method so it becomes second nature.
8. Avoid filling your cards completely
My friend recently had an issue with a memory card. When he took it into the store, the clerk asked if he’d completely filled the card with images – and when he nodded, he was told that this could occasionally cause problems with some types of cards.
Let me be clear: I’ve not heard this advice before, and I’m somewhat skeptical about it myself, but it’s probably worth keeping in mind. The advice would be to regularly take images off your cards rather than only removing images when the cards are full; this is a good idea anyway because it’ll prevent significant heartbreak if you lose the card or the files are corrupted.
9. Periodically reformat your cards
This memory card tip is quick but essential:
Reformat your memory cards every so often, and do it with your camera, not your computer. This will clean the card and get it ready for a new batch of images. Of course, you should only do this after you’ve downloaded all files – otherwise, you’ll lose them!
10. Format your memory cards in the right camera
As I discussed in the previous tip, it’s a good idea to format your memory card in a camera. But you shouldn’t format the card in just any camera; instead, make sure you format it in the camera you plan to shoot with.
For instance, if you’ve been using your card in your Canon DSLR but want to start using it in your Canon mirrorless camera, you should safely store all the images, then reformat the card when you put it in the mirrorless camera for the first time.
11. Switch off your camera before removing the memory card
Years ago, it was said that a camera could give a card “voltage shock” when the card was pulled out of the camera without first turning the camera off. But while manufacturers seem to have since made improvements in this area, it’s better to be safe than sorry! That’s why I recommend you always turn off your camera before you remove a card.
(Additionally, if your camera is on, it might still be in the process of writing images – and if you remove the card, those images may become corrupted or go unwritten.)
12. Transfer photos as soon as you can
There’s a simple rule I follow: transfer your photos as soon as possible. Why? Memory cards are reliable, but they’re not infallible. The longer your images sit on a card, the higher the risk of loss, either through card failure or misplacement.
I’ve made it a habit: every time I return from a shoot, I transfer my images to my desktop hard drives. Then, once the images are safely transferred and backed up, I delete them from the card. This routine ensures I always have a fresh card ready for my next adventure.
But there’s another reason for this habit: untransferred images are easily forgotten. You might capture an amazing moment, only to forget about its impact and relevance when it sits unseen on a card for months.
13. Keep your camera up to date
Every so often, camera manufacturers will release firmware updates, which keep your camera up to date and include fixes for errors or problems that are identified with the camera.
Some of these fixes can relate to the camera’s interaction with the memory card, so I encourage you to check for camera firmware updates every few months and download them as needed.
14. Periodically update your cards
Memory cards can last a long time – even years. However, like all electronics, they wear down with constant use, so it’s important that you update your set of cards periodically to prevent issues.
Fortunately, memory card prices are always dropping, so updating your cards has become a surprisingly inexpensive task!
15. Replace batteries before they die
When you’re on a photoshoot, it’s important that you keep an eye on your battery levels – and if the battery does get low, either pause for a recharge or swap it out for a fresh one.
You see, when a battery runs out just as you take a shot, it can prevent your camera from writing the image to your card. This can also cause card errors, so make sure you keep an eye on those batteries!
16. Don’t switch off your camera too quickly after shooting
This one really depends on your camera model. If you fire off a burst of photos, your camera will need a little time to write all of the data to the memory card – and if you switch the camera off during this process, some cameras will simply lose the images and even end up with errors.
However, recent models will continue buffering even after you switch them off (thus avoiding the problem). If you’re not sure how your camera handles the issue, check the manual or do some Googling.
17. Keep your memory cards safe
Perhaps this memory card tip should go without saying, but whenever you’re shooting, do what you can to keep your cards safe.
Make sure the cards stay dry and clean – a dedicated memory card case is perfect for this – don’t expose them to extreme temperatures, don’t drop, bend, or puncture them, and don’t expose them to electromagnetic currents.
That way, your cards remain in good condition for years!
18. Prepare your cards in case they’re lost
This last one is optional, but if you’re afraid that you might lose your camera and/or memory card, you might try taking a picture of a luggage tag or business card complete with your contact details, then keep it as the first image on each of your memory cards.
Then lock the image so it’s not deleted. If you lose your camera or card and an honest person finds it, they’ll hopefully see the image and get in touch!
How to use camera memory cards: final words
Now that you’ve finished this article, you know how to take care of your memory cards – and you’re well-equipped to prevent common card errors.
Bottom line: Having backup cards, organizing them effectively, transferring photos promptly, treating them with care, and more – these aren’t just recommendations, they’re necessities for any photographer who values their work. Implementing these habits will save you from the heartache and frustration that come with memory card mishaps.
So remember the tips I’ve shared, keep your memory cards safe, and (with a bit of luck) you won’t run into any issues.
Now over to you:
Do you have any memory card tips that I missed? Share them in the comments below!
If you’ve never participated in a photo walk before, then you’re missing out. I love photo walks, I think they’re a great idea for a host of reasons: they challenge you to use your photographic skills in a new way, they help you meet people with similar interests, and they’re a ton of fun.
The great thing about enjoying a photo walk is that it doesn’t have to be a formal, structured occasion. You can be by yourself or with a group of friends. You can wander familiar streets, or you can explore an area that is brand new. The whole point is to get you out there, explore your surroundings, exercise your creativity, and take some pictures.
Below, I delve into the photo walk – what it is, how it works, and how you can find (or create) one near you. So whether you’re planning to attend an upcoming photo walk and you’re looking for some tips to make the most out of it, or you want to better understand how you can start participating, this is an article you don’t want to miss.
What is a photo walk?
Simply put, a photo walk is an organized outing where a group of photography enthusiasts journeys through a specific area to take pictures. But it’s more than a casual stroll with a camera. These walks are an adventure in observation, a chance to see the world in a new light—quite literally.
Photo walks have become a staple activity for many photography clubs and individual photographers alike. These are communal events, attracting lens-lovers from various corners of a city or even from different cities altogether. And the settings are as diverse as the photographers themselves. While urban areas often serve as popular backdrops, given the wealth of architectural and human subjects, photo walks aren’t confined to city limits.
You can just as easily find photo walks meandering through parks filled with the colors of changing seasons or the soft, dappled light of a late afternoon. Residential areas, with their unique blend of personal and public spaces, can offer a different yet equally enriching canvas. Whether it’s the pulse of a bustling market or the serenity of a secluded nature trail, each setting offers its own set of challenges and rewards. The locale dictates the mood, and the possibilities are endless. So, whether you’re a city slicker who thrives on street photography or a nature lover aiming to catch a bird in flight, there’s a photo walk out there for you.
How to find a photo walk near you
So you’re intrigued and ready to dive into the photo walk experience. Great! But where do you start? Locating a photo walk in your vicinity is often easier than you might think. A fantastic place to begin your search is Meetup.com. This platform caters to all sorts of interests, including photography. Search for photography groups in your area and check their events calendar. Even if they don’t advertise a specific photo walk, you can always reach out to the group’s leaders. A quick message can unveil hidden opportunities.
Another method to find a nearby photo walk is a good old Google search. Try keywords like “camera clubs near me” or “local photography groups.” Once you identify a few, a short email to inquire about photo walks can go a long way. Don’t hesitate to take this step; photography communities are generally friendly and open to newcomers.
And what if your search comes up empty? Well, that might be a sign for you to take the reins and start your own photo walk. All you need is a couple of interested photographers to get the ball rolling. Use social media or photography forums to connect with local photographers. You’d be surprised how many people are interested in something like this but just need someone to take the first step. Over time, your small get-together can evolve into a larger, thriving community of avid photographers.
10 tips for the best photo walk experience
If you’re embarking on a photo walk for the first time, it’s worth taking some time to prepare. As someone who’s attended quite a few photo walks, here are my top tips for enhancing your experience:
1. Be comfortable
You’re going to be on your feet for a few hours – at least. Wear supportive shoes, weather appropriate clothing, and dress in layers in case you need to warm up or cool off.
Put on sun block (I usually leave my hat and sunglasses behind since I’m never comfortable shooting with them on), and make sure you have access to water.
2. Reduce your profile
A cumbersome bag can weigh you down both physically and creatively. Opt for pants with roomy pockets and leave the big camera bag at home. Your extra batteries? Tuck them into a pocket.
Some photographers even ditch lens caps and filters to trim down further. A cross-body strap for your camera can be a real game-changer, giving you the freedom to use your hands when you need to. Basically, just do your best to avoid carrying lots of stuff.
3. Bring only the absolute essentials
This relates to the previous photo walk tip, but it’s so important that it deserves its own section. Photo walks often last longer than a standard photoshoot session with a client – but the pressure isn’t as high, and you won’t be photographing the whole time, so keep your equipment simple.
One or two spare batteries should suffice if your camera’s battery is fully charged. A couple of memory cards should be more than enough to capture the day’s inspirations. Toss a lens cleaning cloth in your pocket, and you’re good to go. Remember, the idea is to focus on your surroundings, not fuss over gear.
4. Be confident enough to bring only one lens
Traveling light often means making choices, and the lens you choose can be a game-changer. A zoom lens with a diverse focal range, like a 70-200 or an 18-135, offers flexibility without the fuss.
And don’t worry: You won’t lose out on that dream shot. You’ll simply challenge your composition abilities. If a unique shot eludes you, mark the spot mentally. You can always return later with a different lens.
5. Leave the camera on
It may feel counterintuitive, especially if you’re concerned about battery life. But while you’re out shooting, keep your camera on to capture spontaneous moments. Those split-second opportunities often result in the most memorable shots, and some photo walk groups can move pretty fast, so it’s important to be ready at all times.
Of course, if you do plan to follow this tip, make sure you carry extra batteries. That way, you don’t have to constantly think about whether you’re going to run out of charge.
6. Bracket your shots
A tip I picked up from Jay Maisel helps ensure you nail the exposure every time. Bracket your shots. This technique minimizes the need for heavy post-processing. The closer you get it in-camera, the less time you’ll spend in front of your computer later.
Sure, this method uses more memory, so just bring extra cards. If you’re sure of your skills, consider shooting in high-quality JPEG. It saves space and eliminates the need for RAW conversion, depending on how much post-editing flexibility you’re after.
7. Walk a lot, and sit a lot
Variety is key in photography. Some shots require agility and a keen eye for details you can only spot while moving. Other shots demand stillness, giving you the chance to deeply observe from a fixed vantage point. Don’t rush. Spend some time walking and scanning your surroundings.
But also pause. Sit for a while and immerse yourself in one location. The blend of movement and stillness enriches your experience and diversifies your photo collection.
8. Bring some business cards
Networking is a big part of any creative endeavor, photography included. You never know who you might bump into while you’re out capturing the world through your lens. So, make sure to carry business cards or mini cards with your name, email, and website. (Moo offers cost-effective options for creating personalized mini cards.)
As you wander the streets clicking away, people are naturally going to be curious. They’ll want to know why you’re so focused on that rusty gate or those vibrant flowers. Let these encounters pave the way for future collaborations or simply help people reach you to request photos.
9. Be aware of your surroundings
It’s easy to get lost in the world you see through your camera’s viewfinder. I get it; it’s a captivating, almost hypnotic experience. But life is still bustling around you. Traffic flows, pedestrians rush by, and there may even be some curious wildlife.
Always keep one eye on your surroundings to ensure you’re not obstructing anyone’s path or putting yourself in a precarious situation. This awareness is not just about safety; it’s also about courtesy. A polite photographer is a remembered photographer.
10. Know your rights, and know the rules
The laws differ in every country regarding photographers and the photos you can and cannot take. Chances are you’ll never be confronted by anyone regarding the photos you’re taking, but it’s better to be educated beforehand.
Look up a civil rights or professional photography organization for your area or country and see what they have to say about a photographer’s rights. For example, in the United States, the American Civil Liberties Union has put together this page to educate photographers on their rights.
A guide to photo walks: final words
By now, you should have a solid understanding of what photo walks are and how to find or start one. Remember, photography is as much about the journey as it is about the final image. Photo walks offer an enriching blend of social interaction, skill-building, and pure, unadulterated fun.
So why wait? Grab your camera, reach out to potential photography buddies, and embark on an adventure that promises to sharpen your skills while broadening your social circle. Trust me, your camera—and your soul—will thank you.
This guest post was written by Tiffany Joyce from Beyond Megapixels and updated in October 2023 by dPS’s Managing Editor, Jaymes Dempsey.
The sky is the single most abstract and dynamic canvas that a photographer could ever encounter; for me, it’s an endless source of inspiration. Plus, the sky is ultra-accessible, and photographing clouds is just a lot of fun.
But cloud photography isn’t without its difficulties. Given how bright the sky often appears, it can be tough to nail the exposure. And your camera will often struggle to focus on clouds, especially when the sky is low in contrast.
Fortunately, there are several easy solutions to these problems, which I share in this article – along with a handful of additional tips and techniques to help you photograph clouds like a pro.
So if you’re ready to make use of the gorgeous photo opportunities that exist right above your head, then let’s dive right in!
1. Deliberately overexpose the clouds
Clouds tend to be bright white, which generally causes camera meters to go haywire. Your camera sees the bright white tone, thinks it should look a medium gray, and then dramatically underexposes the clouds in response, resulting in dull, unpleasant-looking photos that lack pop.
So instead of letting your camera do all the work, make sure you’re set up in Aperture Priority mode or Manual mode. Point your camera at the clouds, note your camera’s exposure recommendation, then boost the exposure by one to two stops.
If you’re shooting in Aperture Priority mode, simply dial in positive exposure compensation. If you’re shooting in Manual mode, then you can technically choose whether to increase your ISO, widen your aperture, or lower your shutter speed – but in general, I recommend making adjustments to your shutter speed and nothing else.
2. Seek out areas of contrast to focus
Camera AF systems often struggle to get clouds in focus. On overcast days, for instance, skies tend to be very flat and low contrast; this is an absolute nightmare, and your camera’s autofocus system will spend long seconds hunting for perfect focus (and often failing to find it).
So what do you do? You have a few options.
First, as I mentioned above, the real difficulty with autofocusing in cloud photography is contrast. If you don’t have contrast, your AF system won’t know what to do, which will lead to lots of frustration and out-of-focus photos.
So set your AF mode to AF-S (also known as One-Shot AF); this tells your AF system to find focus and then lock it. And set your AF area mode to its single-point option. You want to be able to carefully target areas of contrast.
Next, take a long look at the sky and see if you can identify any clear contrast. Carefully position your single AF point over the high-contrast edge, then half-press the shutter button to lock focus.
Finally – while keeping the focus locked! – adjust your composition until you get the result you want. When you’re ready, take the shot!
Another approach is to switch your lens over to manual focus, then carefully adjust your lens’s focus ring until the clouds look sharp. This option depends on your ability to focus manually, but if you zoom in on the LCD and you use a narrower aperture for a slight depth-of-field buffer, you can get consistently great results. It’s the slower method of focus, sure, but if your AF system is causing problems, it won’t let you down.
3. Always carry a camera
Clouds are visible everywhere, and they’re constantly changing – which means that you often have great photo opportunities forming right above your head.
So whenever you head out, make sure there’s a camera in your bag, in your car, or around your neck. You don’t want to be driving along, only to see an amazing set of clouds and be unprepared to capture it!
You can technically use any camera and lens combination for cloud photography. But if you want to capture detailed cloud shots, I’d recommend grabbing a DSLR or mirrorless camera (any recent model will be fine, and many older models will also get the job done). I’d also recommend using a telephoto lens, like a 55-200mm kit lens or a 70-200mm f/4 zoom.
The higher-quality camera will ensure that your cloud photos include plenty of beautiful color and detail, while the telephoto lens will let you zoom in and out for a mix of tighter and wider cloud shots.
4. Look for powerful compositions
If you want to capture the best cloud photography, you can’t just notice an interesting cloud, fire off a shot or two, then call it a day. Instead, you must think carefully about the composition. In particular, ask yourself:
What is it about this cloud scene that I find interesting? How can I highlight it?
How can I create a frame that feels balanced overall?
How can I change my framing to add flow?
Composition is a complex topic, but when just starting out, I encourage you to think carefully about what makes the scene feel special. Then do what you can to emphasize those features.
You can also use the rule of thirds, which encourages you to position key elements a third of the way into the frame. While the rule of thirds isn’t really a rule and it’ll occasionally give you bad results, it offers a simple layout to create balance and flow within the scene.
By the way, composition isn’t just about studying theory; it’s also about experimentation! Don’t ever feel hemmed in by composition rules and guidelines. If you notice an interesting composition, then try it and see what you can create.
5. Try a minimalist approach
Minimalism is often associated with modern art or lifestyle choices, but it has a firm place in photography, too. In cloud photography, less is often more – so instead of filling the frame with complex elements, focus on simplicity.
A few clouds set against a vast sky can be incredibly impactful. You’re not just capturing the clouds; you’re capturing a balance of clouds and negative space, which helps emphasize the subject while giving the viewer’s eye a place to rest.
Note that minimalist cloud photography can evoke a sense of calm, grandeur, or even isolation. So next time you’re out with your camera, see if you can capture just one or two clouds in a sky full of emptiness.
Pro tip: Tinker with your composition to see how positioning the clouds in different areas changes the feeling of the images. A slight reframe can turn a good photo into an unforgettable one!
6. Think about geometry
We’ve all been children once, staring at the sky and identifying cloud figures – maybe a dragon or a human face. While this is a fun exercise, I’d actually recommend you take your cloud photography in the other direction. That is, instead of thinking about objects in the clouds, think about shapes; that is, try to view them as lines, circles, or even swirls.
This geometric approach can elevate your photography from mere representation to a form of visual poetry. With practice, you’ll find yourself arranging the geometric shapes in ways that are not only visually pleasing but also emotionally resonant.
And if you’re not sure how to arrange shapes within a frame, that’s okay! Start by using the compositional techniques I described above – utilize the rule of thirds to make the geometries pop, work with negative space to make certain shapes stand out, and so on. Imagine you’re an abstract painter and the sky is your canvas. Whether you’re creating tension or harmony, your photograph will elicit more than just a cursory glance. It’ll invite viewers to pause and feel.
7. Shoot at sunrise and sunset
It might seem obvious, but if you want cloud photos that are bursting with color, make sure you head out to catch the sunrise and sunset.
As you’re undoubtedly aware, at sunrise and sunset, skies turn red, orange, purple, blue, and everything in between. It’s a great time to photograph abstract, detailed shots with a zoom lens – but it’s also a great time to shoot wider images that capture the entire scene.
Some sunrises and sunsets are more spectacular than others. In my experience, you want a decent number of clouds in the sky, but not too many. I recommend checking the weather forecast in advance, and if the sunrise or sunset times promise partly cloudy conditions, make sure to head out with that camera!
8. Photograph beams of light
Capturing light beams in your cloud photography can make such a difference. These beams, often referred to as crepuscular rays, are created when light filters through gaps in the clouds and hits dust and other particles on its way through the atmosphere. The visual result? Shafts of sunlight that pierce the sky, providing a dramatic effect.
It’s not just about randomly stumbling upon these light beams, though. You should actively seek them out. Sunrise and sunset are the best times to find crepuscular rays, plus the light during the golden hours really makes the beams pop. The sky often has a range of colors during these times, which further enhances the effect.
Note that cloud cover plays a huge role here. If the sky is too clear, there won’t be any gaps to produce the beams. On the other hand, if it’s completely overcast, the light can’t break through. Aim for a sky that’s mostly cloudy but not fully covered. You want those little gaps!
And when you do spot a light beam, be sure to act quickly. The rays last for fleeting moments, and you often have only a few minutes – or even seconds – to capture that perfect shot before the clouds move and the beam disappears. Ready your camera settings in advance so that you’re not fumbling around when an opportunity appears.
9. Photograph before and after storms
While breathtaking sunrises and sunsets are great, you can also capture amazing cloud shots in other weather.
In particular, stormy skies look amazing and offer up all sorts of cloud photography opportunities. You can create gorgeous shots before the storm begins – when the clouds are still brewing in the distance – and you can also capture amazing shots after the storm has passed through. (Maybe you’ll even get to photograph a stunning rainbow!)
You can even try shooting during the storm, but make sure you stay safe at all times, and also take steps to protect your camera equipment. If you want to capture storm clouds in peak action, consider shooting through the window of your house; that way, you get plenty of photo opportunities, but you don’t have to worry about lightning or rain.
10. Try a long-exposure technique
If you like the idea of cloud photography but want to take that abstract, fine-art look to the next level…
…then long exposures are the way to go. You see, long exposure techniques will create stunning cloud streaks, which look absolutely gorgeous.
Unless you want to shoot at night, you’ll need a neutral density filter (the darker, the better). You’ll also need a sturdy tripod and a remote release to keep your camera steady as you expose each shot.
Here’s how it works:
First, mount your camera on your tripod and select your composition. (Bear in mind that clouds will move, so once you’ve chosen a composition, you’ll need to work quickly.)
Switch your camera to Manual mode. Then dial in a longer shutter speed to capture the cloud movement. Next, set your camera’s lowest ISO; finally, pick your aperture based on exposure considerations. (In other words, choose the aperture value so that you can capture a bright – but not too bright! – image.) Then use a remote release to trigger the shutter.
What shutter speed is ideal? That depends on the speed of the clouds and your focal length, so you’ll need to do some experimentation. However, 20 seconds is a good starting point; I encourage you to take a few shots, check the results on your camera LCD, then adjust the shutter speed accordingly. Eventually, you’ll hit on a speed that works, and you’ll end up with some amazing fine-art cloud photos!
11. Don’t be afraid to include foreground subjects
We often get so engrossed in capturing clouds that we forget the rest of the frame, and this often works great – it allows the viewer to focus on the clouds with zero distractions. That said, it’s okay to sometimes include other elements. By including a foreground subject, you can make your cloud photography not just about the sky but also about its relationship with the earth, and you can also elevate your compositions.
For instance, a solitary bird flying through the sky can add depth to a shot. It gives the audience an anchor point, a place to rest their eyes before they wander back to the clouds. So if you spot a bird soaring through the sky, don’t hesitate. Capture the moment!
Objects on the ground can also add flair to your cloud images. Think tree branches or flowers waving in the wind. They make the clouds look grander and more expansive, though caution is key. You’re still aiming to capture the beauty of the clouds, so make sure the foreground elements don’t dominate the frame. It’s all about balance!
12. Post-process your cloud photography
While it’s always important to nail the exposure, select the composition, and optimize the image quality in-camera, you can also dramatically improve your cloud photos with some careful processing.
I’d recommend using a program like Lightroom, but any basic editing software will do. Once you import a new image, make sure you:
And those are just the basics! You can also adjust specific colors using an HSL tool, add interesting hues via a color-grading or split-toning panel, and even dodge and burn with adjustment brushes. At the end of the day, you have to decide how much you actually want to tweak your photos, but a little editing can go a long way.
13. Learn about the different cloud formations
Imagine enjoying a glass of wine without knowing its origin or blend. Sure, it might be tasty, but knowing the details enriches the experience, and the same goes for cloud photography. Understanding what you’re capturing elevates it from a visual experience to a more in-depth one.
You don’t need a degree in meteorology to appreciate the difference between cloud formations, and you don’t need to read dozens of textbooks, either. Instead, just spend some time looking at cloud ID guides, and see what you can learn!
And as you study, think about what each cloud type adds to your shots. Cloud formations can indicate specific weather patterns, but they can also dramatically change the mood of your photos.
So get curious. Learn the basics. I guarantee that the more you know about clouds, the more you’ll want to spend time photographing. Plus, once you get the hang of identifying different types of clouds, you can start to predict the kinds of clouds that will appear in advance, which can certainly come in handy!
Cloud photography tips: final words
I love photographing clouds – and I’m guessing you do, too! (If you don’t already, you will soon!) Clouds are amazing subjects, and they offer plenty of breathtaking photo opportunities.
So remember the tips I’ve shared. Spend plenty of time practicing. And appreciate the sky!
Now over to you:
What type of cloud photos do you plan on taking? Do you have any additional tips that I missed? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
Ryan Cooper is the founder and president of jitZul.
jitZul is an online resource and company dedicated to helping aspiring artists market and monetize their creative talent so that they can turn their passion into a career.
This article was updated in January 2025 with contributions from Kaspars Grinvalds, Karen Quist, and Darlene Hildebrandt.
Want to know how to pose men so your portraits consistently shine? Posing men isn’t especially difficult, yet many beginner portrait photographers struggle to produce nice, clean, high-quality results – and that’s where we come in.
In this article, we share 21 male posing ideas, ranging from simple, beginner-focused ideas to complex options for experienced photographers. We include a mix of styles, including corporate, informal, fashion, and more – so no matter your preferred genre of photography, you’re bound to find a pose or two that works.
Plus, we offer a handful of expert tips for male portrait photography; that way, you can confidently handle your future photoshoots!
Let’s dive right in.
How to pose men: 21 ideas
Without further ado, here are 21 outstanding male poses that practically guarantee stunning results:
1. Upper body with crossed arms
Let’s start with a very simple male pose:
Ask your subject to stand up straight, cross their arms, turn one shoulder slightly away, bring their chin toward the camera, and smile.
It works for plenty of portrait styles: informal (e.g., family portraits or senior portraits), business portraits, and even fashion shots.
Two things to watch: The shoulders should be pulled back a little, and the stomach muscles should be kept in check.
2. Full body with crossed arms
Crossed arms work in full-height shots, as well.
So use the same posing guidelines as above, then ask your subject to cross one leg in front of the other. But make sure the body weight is not supported equally on both legs; that will look awkward!
This pose is especially nice for informal photoshoots, such as a family portrait session.
3. One hand on a hip
A recurring question from your subject might be, “Where should I put my hands?”
But while hands are often a point of confusion and awkwardness, the solution is actually quite simple. There are four places a subject can position their hands, and they can be mixed and matched in any combination:
Loosely by the side
On the hips
In the pockets
Crossed on the chest
Note that hands should always be relaxed, which means no muscle pressure (unless you’re photographing a bodybuilder!)
For this pose, the man should put one hand on his hip, stand square to the camera, and let the other hand dangle loosely – though feel free to experiment with different hand positions, too!
4. Full body with hands in the pockets
Here’s another casual pose for a man standing upright.
Ask your subject to square his body to the camera, with his weight equally distributed on both legs and his nose pointed at the lens. In general, I recommend that the hands go in the pants pockets, thumbs out; this is a surefire way to achieve a natural and relaxed pose. However, you can use jacket pockets, too!
5. Clothes over the shoulder
This pose is a bit edgier and fashion-conscious. It can work for corporate or fashion shots but should be avoided during family and senior portraits.
Ask your subject to cross one leg over the other, look at the camera, hook a thumb in their pocket, and throw an item of clothing – such as a suit jacket – over their shoulder. The more casual and relaxed they look, the better!
6. Sitting with one ankle on the knee
Sitting poses tend to be pretty casual, and this one is no exception. Provide your subject with a block or a chair, then ask them to cross their arms and lift one ankle over their knee.
For the best results, shoot slightly from above.
7. Leaning back against the wall
This is one of my favorite upright poses, simply because it’s ultra-easy and looks really great.
Just have your model put their back to a wall and casually recline. Their hands can go in their pockets, and – for a bit of additional flair – ask them to put one foot against the wall (while the other stays flat against the floor).
8. Leaning sideways against the wall
This is a variation on the above pose. Simply ask your model to turn so one shoulder presses against the wall, then encourage them to cross their legs.
While you can certainly use a hands-in-the-pockets look, try asking your subject to cross their arms instead. Crossed arms are more formal and work well for business portraits.
9. Upper body with an item in the hand
This one’s a very simple pose for a business portrait. Ask your subject to face the camera with one hand in their pocket and the other dangling freely, an item held in the hand (e.g., a laptop, a book, or even a tool).
(If possible, ensure that the items are clear indicators of the subject’s occupation.)
10. Sitting on a desk
Here, you’ll need a relatively sturdy desk. Ask your subject to sit firmly on the edge; you’ll get a very relaxed, yet professional, result. You can experiment with different hand positions, but hands in the pockets or resting on top of the legs works great.
11. Sitting at a desk
Here’s another simple male pose for a business portrait: A man sitting at a desk.
Ask your subject to sit forward slightly. You might also have him rest his chin on his hand while letting the other arm sit on the desk surface. Alternatively, you can have him place his hands together for a more relaxed look.
To reveal the subject’s profession, place work-related items around his arms, such as books, charts, or tools.
12. Sitting at a desk, one arm up
This is another business-style portrait, but with a little extra flair. Ask your subject to sit at a desk and lean forward slightly – but one arm should come across the desk in a V-shape, while the other should fade back.
When done properly, your subject’s shoulder should tilt toward the camera, and their nose should follow.
13. Turned in a chair (away from a desk)
To show the work environment while removing the distance created by a foreground desk, flip the shot around. Ask your subject to sit in their desk chair, but spin around so that they face the camera.
One hand can go on the desk, while the other arm can dangle off the chair. The result?
Formal and inviting.
14. Arms crossed on a desk
Continuing with the desk theme, this composition puts the desk off to the side, with your subject leaning forward, arms crossed on the desk surface.
Ask your subject to tilt one shoulder toward the camera, while pointing their nose at the lens. Again, you could place work-related items on the desk to hint at the subject’s profession.
15. Standing next to a chair
Chairs are great props, and they can easily make a portrait both engaging and interesting. So ask your subject to stand upright with their legs crossed. Add in the chair, then encourage them to place one hand on its back, the other in their pocket.
Professional looking? Yes. But also fun, eye-catching, and a little bit suave.
16. Relaxed in a chair
If you’re taking corporate or even fashion portraits and your subject is struggling to get comfortable in front of the lens, why not make them comfortable – literally?
Just ask them to sit in a chair, lean back, smile, and cross one leg. Later, you can move on to more complex poses, but you’re bound to get a good shot or two out of this simple idea!
17. Sitting on the ground
For business-style portraits, this type of pose is best avoided. But if you’re doing family photo sessions, senior portraits, or another type of informal shot, you’ll love the casual, relaxed images you can capture.
Simply ask your subject to sit on the ground, one arm holding them up from behind and the other dangling over the knee. You might also try a leg cross (as pictured below), as well as other shooting directions and angles.
18. Reclining on the ground
Here’s another variant of a man’s pose while sitting on the ground. Ask your subject to sit, then to lie back while supporting his weight with one arm.
Unlike the male pose displayed above, the subject’s second arm should dangle behind. And make sure the upper arm is completely hidden – otherwise, the shot may turn out a tad awkward.
19. Sitting on the ground with arms over knees
This one’s an easy and relaxed pose for a sitting man. It works well for family portraits, senior photoshoots, and other informal purposes, though it’s best avoided for serious corporate photos.
Ask your subject to sit on the ground with one leg out (knee bent!) and the other leg tucked slightly under the opposite calve. Have them bend forward and rest their forearms on their knees.
20. Reclining against a wall
Here’s one final informal male posing idea, and while it may feel overly relaxed for certain situations (even senior portraits), it’s a great fit for more carefree subjects.
Ask your subject to sit on the ground, supporting their back against a wall, a rock, or even a tree. Encourage them to lean back in a resting pose and bring one leg back while leaving the other straight. You can experiment with different hand positions, though I’d recommend using the illustration as a starting point:
21. Close-up headshot
This is a male pose that never fails, no matter your intent. Corporate, senior portrait, website shot – the close-up headshot won’t let you down.
Ask your subject to sit forward and rest their elbows on a solid surface such as a desk. The hands should overlap loosely and rest comfortably next to your subject’s chin. Test out different head positions, though begin with a look straight toward the camera.
Oh, and one last tip: Never be afraid to crop around your model’s face!
Tips for posing and photographing men
Of course, even once you have plenty of ideas for posing men, you need to know how to approach a male photography session – and you also need to know how to think about posing more generally. In this section, I share my best tips and tricks for great shots, including:
How to create flattering male poses
How to keep men engaged in the photography process
How to get the best results when retouching your portraits
Much more!
1. Include him in the consultation process
One of the most common complaints I encounter on portrait photography forums is that men tend to be very reluctant when involved in family photoshoots. They turn up to the family shoot looking like it’s the last place on earth they want to be, and their crankiness is infectious. Pretty soon, everyone is annoyed, and it makes your job of capturing all those joyful family connections close to impossible.
I confess that this was also one of my bugbears – until I realized a problem. You see, I was often leaving male partners out of the consultation process. And in every grumpy dad case I encountered, I mistakenly assumed that the woman I spoke with during the consultation would communicate everything to their partner and communicate any concerns their partner might have.
Following a major light-bulb moment, I started to include men in the consultations, and it made a world of difference. As it turned out, my male clients just wanted to be heard! The more you engage with men before the shoot, the more comfortable they will be when you’re wielding a camera, and the better the photos will turn out. (This applies whether you’re photographing a paying client, the guy next door, or your brother.)
So before you conduct a photoshoot that involves a man, talk with him. Ask him if he has any features he’s sensitive about (a prominent nose, a double chin, acne scarring, and a bit of a tummy are common sensitive areas). Allow him to express his insecurities without feeling silly, and reassure him that you can work around these via posing, camera angles, lighting, and post-processing.
Ask him what kind of clothes he feels good in, and make sure he understands how these may work for or against him in photographs. Tread gently; if it’s a family session, there’s a good chance his partner is already on his case.
Finally, if a man makes the effort to dress well for your photoshoot, show him the same respect by paying attention to detail in the editing process. Zoom in close and check for stray hairs his razor may have missed, loose threads, and even smudges left by a child’s fingers.
2. Find purpose and meaning
Before conducting your session, ask the man why he wants the photos taken. If it’s an individual portrait, what is he using it for? If it’s for professional purposes, what kind of work does he do? What kind of look does he want? Then tailor your compositions accordingly.
If he’s a passionate kite-surfing instructor, he may not appreciate a moody black-and-white portrait; instead, he’s much more likely to want an image full of color and action. On the other hand, a budding author may love the black-and-white look!
If you’re doing a family shoot, ask him questions about the family. It sounds like a no-brainer, but you’d be surprised at how often this important step is missed. What does the family like to do together? What is special about his partner? What does he love most about his child or grandchild? Dig deep, and listen to his answers. You’ll appreciate what he reveals, and you can incorporate the insights into your photos.
The image below shows dad with my eldest daughter, and it’s one of my personal favorites. He told me he loves the fact that, even though she is a teenager, she still takes his hand or his arm when they go for walks together through the forest near his home. I like how the arch of the trees frames them. To me, it suggests they are walking toward the future together.
The man in the photos below told me that he marvels at the smallness of his new daughter’s hands and feet. Like many young dads, he is at a very busy stage in his professional life. Often his baby is asleep by the time he gets home at night, so he cherishes the quiet moments they get to spend together.
The photo below features two cousins. They played together as children but have lived on separate continents since their families emigrated from their native country when they were young. I was astonished by how similar their gestures and body language were despite having lived apart for most of their lives, and I wanted to capture that in a photograph. The ocean is symbolic in this photo; though it usually separates them, when I pressed the shutter, they were both on the same side of it.
3. Give him something to lean against or sit on
Regardless of the amount of time you spend preparing, many men are profoundly uncomfortable in front of a camera, especially at the start of a shoot. And if your subject feels uncomfortable, that will come through in the photos, resulting in stiff, awkward, less-than-optimal shots.
So start by asking your subject how they feel in front of the camera. Observe their body language, too, as you take your first few shots. If your subject does seem awkward just standing, ask them to lean against a vertical surface such as a wall, fence, lamppost, or car. It will help them feel anchored and will allow them to angle their body without looking unnatural.
Another option is to find something for them to sit on, like a chair, a bench, or even a rock. You’ll be surprised by how easily it helps your subject relax.
4. Minimize a double chin, a prominent nose, or heavy jowls
Men often have certain features they prefer to deemphasize. It’s important to ask them about this in the consultation process; encourage them to be honest, and ensure that they feel safe sharing these insecurities with you. Often, the list will include double chins, prominent noses, and heavy jowls, so you should take steps to minimize these in your photos.
One way to hide a double chin is to shoot from above eye level with your subject leaning slightly forward. If he’s seated, ask him to rest his forearms on his thighs and angle his knees 45° away from you.
You can also use lighting to your advantage. Strong, directional light can visually slim a face or a torso – it’s a trick that often comes in handy!
The photo on the left was shot from below eye level (the subject was taller than me and was standing) with light falling on both sides of his face. But the photo on the right, where my subject was seated and leaning forward with their head angled away from the camera, is more flattering. Note how strong light reflected off a wall in the late afternoon casts his neck and the left side of his face into shadow.
5. Give him something to do with his hands
When people are facing a camera with their arms hanging down at their sides, they suddenly become self-conscious. “What should I do with my hands?” they ask. And they’re onto something: Dangly hands generally don’t look good! So what do you do?
Instead of letting the hands hang awkwardly, ask him to put one or both hands in his pockets or loop his thumb over his belt. If he’s sitting, have him interlink his fingers or clasp his hands together. If you’re doing a family photoshoot, have him hold a baby or clasp a child’s hand.
You might also consider adding props (depending on the type of male photoshoots you’re conducting). For instance, your subject could hold a book (if he’s an author), a guitar (if he’s a musician), or even an umbrella (if you’re going for a moodier image).
6. Pay attention to the little details
Details such as eyes, lips, and hands help tell a story, and they often depict the connections between people. Of course, you should make sure to get all the wider shots – but don’t forget to zoom in every so often (a close-focusing lens is a big help here) and capture the details, even if they don’t seem like showstopping portrait material.
Hands are a personal favorite of mine. They’re a powerful expression of emotional connection and tenderness, and because of their size, men’s hands are often visually striking when placed side by side with the hands of children.
The portrait below shows a tender and playful moment between father and daughter. His hand is large next to hers, and she smiles as he kisses milk froth from her fingertips.
7. Don’t forget about retouching
Let’s face it: Cameras can be brutal. They do a great job of capturing all those little imperfections the naked eye generally doesn’t see, and they hold it in a static image for the eye to contemplate.
In some styles of male portraiture, this is actually useful. Elderly men with craggy faces are popular subjects for travel photographers and photojournalists. However, wrinkles and blemishes are not something you want to highlight in family photos or corporate headshots, so it’s important that you spend some time removing or minimizing these items in the editing room.
Men will give you hints during the consultation and the shoot. If he cracks jokes such as, “Can you Photoshop me to make me look 10 years younger?” or “Can you make me look like George Clooney?” he’s probably only half-kidding. Just because he’s a man doesn’t mean he’s okay with acne or out-of-place nose hairs.
Now, when it comes to editing, much will depend on your personal style. While I’m not a fan of heavily edited portraits, I still follow a careful Lightroom workflow. With men, I use the Brush tool to soften skin, but the effect is always subtle (his skin probably shouldn’t appear softer than a woman’s or child’s skin in the same photo).
When it comes to blemishes, my rule of thumb is to remove anything that is temporary. Pimples, scratches, stray hairs – if it’s going to be gone from his face in a couple of weeks, I’ll remove it from his face in the post-processing stage. But unless the client specifically asked me to, I wouldn’t remove a mole or a birthmark.
Additional resources for posing men
Looking for additional advice on creating amazing male poses? First, check out this hands-on video from Adorama; in it, expert portrait photographer Emily Teague walks you through the basics of masculine posing:
In this second video by Creative Live, instructor Jeff Rojas talks about body language and things to watch for, and also to avoid when posing males. Do you know what clenched fists or hands below the belt line mean? Watch this clip and find out.
Finally, give this Jerry Ghionis video a watch. Yes, it’s long, but the tips that Jerry provides are invaluable, and he does an amazing job of showing exactly what you need to do for top-notch male poses.
How to pose men: final words
Hopefully, you now have a starting point for your male poses! Remember that there are no absolutes; each sample pose might and should be adjusted depending on your shooting environment and scenario. There is no need to overdo anything.
In reality, all you need for good people portraits is simplicity:
Simple backgrounds, simple clothing, simple poses, and natural expressions.
Now over to you:
Do you have any tips for posing men that I missed? Any favorite male poses? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
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Find purpose and meaning”},{“id”:”give-him-something-to-lean-against-or-sit-on”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”3. Give him something to lean against or sit on”},{“id”:”minimize-a-double-chin-a-prominent-nose-or-heavy-jowls”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”4. Minimize a double chin, a prominent nose, or heavy jowls”},{“id”:”give-him-something-to-do-with-his-hands”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”5. Give him something to do with his hands”},{“id”:”pay-attention-to-the-little-details”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”6. Pay attention to the little details”},{“id”:”dont-forget-about-retouching”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”7. Don’t forget about retouching”},{“id”:”additional-resources-for-posing-men”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”Additional resources for posing men”},{“id”:”how-to-pose-men-final-words”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”How to pose men: final words”},{“id”:”how-to-pose-men-ideas”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”How to pose men: 21 ideas”},{“id”:”upper-body-with-crossed-arms”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”1. Upper body with crossed arms”},{“id”:”full-body-with-crossed-arms”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”2. Full body with crossed arms”},{“id”:”one-hand-on-a-hip”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”3. One hand on a hip”},{“id”:”full-body-with-hands-in-the-pockets”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”4. Full body with hands in the pockets”},{“id”:”clothes-over-the-shoulder”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”5. Clothes over the shoulder”},{“id”:”sitting-with-one-ankle-on-the-knee”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”6. Sitting with one ankle on the knee”},{“id”:”leaning-back-against-the-wall”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”7. Leaning back against the wall”},{“id”:”leaning-sideways-against-the-wall”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”8. Leaning sideways against the wall”},{“id”:”upper-body-with-an-item-in-the-hand”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”9. Upper body with an item in the hand”},{“id”:”sitting-on-a-desk”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”10. Sitting on a desk”},{“id”:”sitting-at-a-desk”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”11. Sitting at a desk”},{“id”:”sitting-at-a-desk-one-arm-up”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”12. Sitting at a desk, one arm up”},{“id”:”turned-in-a-chair-away-from-a-desk”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”13. Turned in a chair (away from a desk)”},{“id”:”arms-crossed-on-a-desk”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”14. Arms crossed on a desk “},{“id”:”standing-next-to-a-chair”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”15. Standing next to a chair”},{“id”:”relaxed-in-a-chair”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”16. Relaxed in a chair”},{“id”:”sitting-on-the-ground”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”17. Sitting on the ground”},{“id”:”reclining-on-the-ground”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”18. Reclining on the ground”},{“id”:”sitting-on-the-ground-with-arms-over-knees”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”19. Sitting on the ground with arms over knees”},{“id”:”reclining-against-a-wall”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”20. Reclining against a wall”},{“id”:”close-up-headshot”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”21. Close-up headshot”},{“id”:”tips-for-posing-and-photographing-men”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”Tips for posing and photographing men”},{“id”:”include-him-in-the-consultation-process”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”1. Include him in the consultation process”},{“id”:”find-purpose-and-meaning”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”2. Find purpose and meaning”},{“id”:”give-him-something-to-lean-against-or-sit-on”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”3. Give him something to lean against or sit on”},{“id”:”minimize-a-double-chin-a-prominent-nose-or-heavy-jowls”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”4. Minimize a double chin, a prominent nose, or heavy jowls”},{“id”:”give-him-something-to-do-with-his-hands”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”5. Give him something to do with his hands”},{“id”:”pay-attention-to-the-little-details”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”6. Pay attention to the little details”},{“id”:”dont-forget-about-retouching”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”7. Don’t forget about retouching”},{“id”:”additional-resources-for-posing-men”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”Additional resources for posing men”},{“id”:”how-to-pose-men-final-words”,”permalink”:”https://digital-photography-school.com/21-sample-poses-to-get-you-started-with-photographing-men/”,”title”:”How to pose men: final words”}] };
This article was updated in November 2023 with contributions by Kav Dadfar, Ana Mireles, and Jaymes Dempsey.
Museums offer incredible opportunities for photography; you can capture paintings, sculptures, educational displays, architecture, people interacting with exhibits, and so much more.
Unfortunately, while museum photography can look great, it’s tough to get right. Due to the large crowds, reflective glass, and low light, it’s easy to come home from a museum with a batch full of blurry, muddy, distraction-filled photos.
So how do you capture amazing photos at museums? Simply follow the nine tips I share below, which explain how to handle crowds, how to keep your shots sharp, how to deal with reflections on the glass, and so much more.
Let’s get started!
1. Check the rules
Before planning a photography trip to a museum, I highly recommend you start by checking the rules. Make sure you’re actually allowed to photograph inside the museum – not all museums are so photography-friendly! – and determine whether photography is off-limits in certain areas.
If photography is banned, you can always try contacting the museum and asking for permission, but don’t be surprised if you get rejected; photography can cause safety issues, and the flash can damage works of art, so museum staff likely won’t be so accommodating.
Note: Even if a museum does allow photography, you may not be allowed to capture commercial photos, and you may also encounter certain equipment restrictions. Tripods, for instance, are a big no-no at many museums, so make sure you read the rules carefully. You don’t want to prepare for a museum shoot, only to arrive and have your tripod confiscated.
Bottom line: Before capturing some museum photos, make sure you know what’s off-limits. The restrictions are created for a reason, so regardless of the situation, never intentionally break rules.
2. Consider what you want to convey
When it comes to museum photography, it’s easy to simply walk on through, point your camera at each exhibit, and press that shutter button. However, most folks will get bored after viewing just a few photos of a museum – so instead of trying to document everything, I encourage you to really think about what you want to convey to the viewer.
For instance, do you want to emphasize the movement and engagement that occurs inside a museum? Then use a wide-angle lens to capture the main hall with all of its hustle and bustle. Do you want to impress the viewer with the intricate details of a single artifact? Then get up close and exclude all other objects from the frame.
Every museum is different, and thinking about its key attributes can help you decide what you want to highlight. You might also consider researching the museum in advance; look to understand the architecture, the exhibits, and the overall feeling of the place, then hone in on what interests you most.
That way, instead of producing hundreds of lackluster documentary-type shots, you can come away with two or three key images that really showcase the venue and its exhibits in your own unique style.
3. Don’t forget about the building!
Museums are teeming with incredible works of art, historical pieces, and/or flashy exhibits – so it’s easy to forget that they are often housed in some of the most amazing buildings in the world. Think of the Louvre in Paris, the Natural History Museum in London, or the Guggenheim in New York, and you’ll know what I mean.
In my view, the buildings are as much a part of the experience as the attractions inside, so you should absolutely spend some time exploring the museum architecture in addition to the artifacts and exhibits. I’d recommend doing a little research on the building before you go; that way, you can note any specific elements of cultural or historical importance. These small details are often missed by people (and photographers!) who focus on the main attractions, so by seeking them out, you can capture some uniquely powerful shots.
Make sure to photograph both the museum’s interior and exterior. When working indoors, pay attention to ceilings, columns, and doorways, all of which can make for beautiful images. And when you’re photographing outdoors, try to work during the early morning or late evening, when the light is soft and golden.
You can also try photographing the museum facade after dark, which will give you the opportunity to combine a moody atmosphere with beautiful artificial lighting:
4. Take steps to eliminate reflections
Have you ever tried to photograph a museum display that’s behind glass? It’s tough. If you’re not careful, you’ll end up with reflections in your final shot, and while you can reduce these in post-processing, it’s much better to get it right in the field.
So what do you do?
First, turn off your flash. Otherwise, it’ll bounce off the glass and create an unpleasant white glow somewhere in the image.
Next, make sure you’re using a lens hood. A rubber hood is best, though you can make do with a plastic hood, too (and in a pinch, you can simply drape a coat over the front of your lens).
Finally, move your lens as close to the glass as possible. You’ll want to keep your front lens element parallel to the display, and you’ll want to keep any gap between the lens and the glass covered by the lens hood.
If you follow each of the above steps, you’ll eliminate most (or even all) reflections, and you’ll end up with images like this one here (yes, it was shot through the glass!):
5. Adjust your settings or stabilize your camera
Museum exhibits are sometimes kept dark for added ambiance or for purposes of preservation, and even when exhibits are fully lit, the artificial lighting often isn’t much compared to outdoor lighting. As a result, your museum photography will turn out unpleasantly underexposed or extremely blurry – unless you change your camera settings to compensate for the low light.
Specifically, you’ll want to switch your camera to Aperture Priority or Manual mode, then boost your ISO until you can keep your shutter speed at 1/80s or above. Yes, a high ISO will increase image noise, but most modern cameras can go up to ISO 800, ISO 1600, and beyond without significant reduction in image quality, so as long as you only raise your ISO as necessary, you should be okay. (Also, it’s better to capture a noisy image than a blurry one!)
As I noted above, you’ll want to keep your shutter speed at 1/80s or above – otherwise, your images will likely turn out consistently soft – but you’ll need to take steps to keep your body stabilized. While 1/80s is fast enough for sharp handholding when using a wider lens, it’s important to use proper technique (hold in your elbows, cup your lens with one hand, keep your camera close to your face, etc.).
That said, if the museum does allow tripods, then I encourage you to use one! You can also try resting your camera on a table or a bench, which is another great way to capture sharp shots while using ultra-low shutter speeds.
6. Try to get creative
Museums aren’t exactly new, and museum photography has been going on for decades – so it’s your job, as a photographer, to showcase what people have seen and captured a thousand times from a new perspective.
How can you do this? I’d start by adjusting your viewpoint. See if you can photograph an exhibit or hall from high up (by shooting from a balcony) or from low down (by kneeling down and shooting upward with a wide-angle lens).
I’d also encourage you to look for the little details: shadows, reflections, and even moments of interaction between the visitors and the artifacts. Small details often go unnoticed, yet they can be full of meaning and beauty.
Finally, you can try out various creative techniques. If tripods are allowed in the building, try to capture a long-exposure photo that hints at the movement of the museum’s visitors. If the museum is full of artifacts, try to use shooting-through composition techniques (where you position an out-of-focus element in the image foreground) to give the viewer a sense of immersion within the scene. Make sense?
7. Choose your composition carefully
When photographing art or an artifact in a museum, don’t try to just reproduce it; if all you want is a record shot, it’s generally just better to buy the postcard or the catalog.
Instead, think about what the piece is transmitting to you. Consider going wide: show the architecture of the gallery, make it interact with the other pieces of the exhibition, and try to capture the ambiance.
In other words, make it your own. Notice how in this next example, I didn’t photograph any specific artwork, just the space and the atmosphere:
Rijksmuseum van Oudheden, Leiden, the Netherlands. (Image by Ana Mireles)
8. Avoid crowds with research and patience
As any museum photographer knows, one of the main issues when capturing images of exhibits and halls is the crowds.
After all, museums are designed as tourist destinations, and as such, they’re often very busy. Try to capture a photo of a famous sculpture, and you’ll generally end up with dozens of people fragmented throughout the frame.
Fortunately, I have a few handy tips to prevent crowds from encroaching on your shots:
First, head to the museum on days and times when things are quieter. If you attend during the week and take care to avoid school vacations, you can often avoid visitors. And if you come early in the morning, you may get whole rooms to yourself! You might also try heading to the museum between around 11 and 2, as many tour groups eat lunch during these times. (Locals can sometimes offer this kind of insight.)
Second, spend some time photographing the less-popular portions of the museum – the back rooms, the permanent third-floor exhibits, etc. These areas are often quieter, but that doesn’t mean they’re any less worthy of photos!
Third, if you find an area you desperately want to photograph but you can’t seem to shake the tourists, just take a breath. Even in the busiest of venues, if you wait long enough, you’ll eventually find a gap in the flow of traffic. You’ll ultimately capture the shot you want, but you’ll need to give yourself plenty of time; patience is key!
Fourth, don’t be afraid to include people in your photo. Just be sure to wait until the right moment so that they complement your image!
9. Keep copyright considerations in mind
Last but not least, there is something that you won’t see on the museum signs, but it exists and it’s very important: the issue of copyright.
While getting inspiration from others is great, remember that you are photographing the work of a fellow artist, so it is covered by copyright. This can apply to artwork being exhibited as well as to the architecture of the museum, so it can be a very complicated issue to understand.
I encourage you to inform yourself in greater depth. A general rule of thumb is that you can’t use an image for commercial purposes without permission from the creator. And if you’re using the image for educational purposes, you should always give credit to the creator. Let’s be respectful of one another!
Museum photography tips: final words
Museums are often beautiful and are certainly key sights in most areas, so they should be on every photographer’s shot list.
And while museum photography can be tough for beginners, just remember the tips I’ve shared, approach each new museum carefully, and stay creative. You’re bound to capture some amazing photos!
Now over to you:
What museums do you plan to photograph? Which of these tips will you use? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
What is negative space in photography, and how can you use it for beautiful compositions?
The term negative space may sound strange, but it’s actually an essential component of almost every great image. In fact, if you want to create gorgeous photos, you must master negative space; that way, you can take shots that feature balanced, harmonious, eye-catching arrangements. (You can also capture wonderfully minimalistic compositions, as I discuss down below.)
In this article, I’ll explain everything you need to know about negative space, including:
What negative space actually is
Why negative space is important
Simple tips and tricks to use negative space in your images, whether you shoot landscapes, portraits, street scenes, or architecture
Ready to become a compositional master? Then let’s get started.
What is negative space?
The negative space of an image is anything other than the subject. It’s the foreground, the background, and the visual “breathing room” all around the scene.
Check out this next image, where the foggy sky and the empty water act as negative space:
In photography, negative space is often made up of certain elements:
Water
Sky
Walls
Sand
Note that all of these elements tend to fade easily into the background, and that’s why they make such great negative space. An empty sky does not draw the eye, any more than a blank white wall, a stretch of empty sand, and so on.
Now, some photos are full of negative space. These compositions are often very abstract, such as a stretch of empty blue sky, or a sand dune stretching off in every direction. Such negative-space-centric compositions can also be minimalistic, with a single eye-catching element surrounded by emptiness.
Other photos, however, feature plenty of non-negative space, also known as positive space:
Positive space versus negative space
Positive space is the complete opposite of negative space. Negative space rejects the eye, while positive space steals the spotlight. You see, positive space is the area of a photo that includes elements of interest, the area that includes the main subject, the area where the viewer’s eye goes first.
In the photo below, there is plenty of positive space but very little negative space. The flag, the buildings, and the trees all act as positive space. Even the clouds provide some positive space thanks to their interesting arrangement and texture. The biggest patch of negative space is the sky, which takes up a tiny portion of the shot.
Now, positive space can be anything, but here are some common examples:
Faces
People
Buildings
Birds
Wildlife
Mountains
So which is better, positive or negative space?
Neither.
In photography, the goal is to combine both types of space to create a balanced composition. You want negative space, yes, but you also want positive space. That’s how you can get consistently stunning photos!
Negative space and minimalism
Technically, negative space is present in nearly every image, even if the compositions are chaotic, messy, and otherwise overwhelming. But when you think of negative space, you might associate it with minimalism. Why?
Minimalism in photography heavily emphasizes negative space to create a tranquil effect. This type of image uses lots of negative space to give the viewer plenty of room to breathe and focus on the subject.
Think of a lone tree or a solitary figure in a field, surrounded by emptiness. It makes for an eye-catching composition, and that’s primarily due to the power of negative space!
But there’s an essential point that I want to emphasize: Not all images with negative space are minimalistic. Minimalism uses negative space in a unique way, and you can go for striking results by taking a minimalistic approach, but you don’t have to. You can always compose with a balanced combination of positive and negative space for a different effect.
The best genres for negative space photography
Negative space isn’t confined to a single genre. In fact, you can apply this concept across various types of photography.
Take landscape shooting, for instance. The wide expanses of sky, beach, mountains, and desert often lend themselves to heavy use of negative space. And this allows the main subject, such as a mountain or a tree, to truly stand out.
Here’s an example of a landscape photo that uses negative space in the composition. It works because the blue and orange colors in the sky add atmosphere and mood:
Image by Andrew S Gibson
Travel photography also benefits from negative space. Imagine a road stretching through an empty landscape, or a person standing at the edge of a lake; the results are meaningful and striking at the same time.
Even certain forms of street photography can look great with lots of negative space. A lone figure crossing a wide-open plaza can speak volumes about urban life and isolation.
On the flip side, portrait photography, event photography, documentary photography, and sports photography often focus more on positive space. The aim here is to convey information about a person, setting, or story, and positive space generally communicates more details.
But don’t let that limit you! If you feel inspired to shoot documentary images with lots of negative space, go for it. Creativity knows no boundaries, and it’s always refreshing to try new approaches.
The genres and ideas I shared above are merely suggestions. The beauty of photography lies in personal interpretation and experimentation. Dive into different subjects and see how negative space can enhance your style.
Negative space in portrait photography
While negative space is often ignored when discussing portrait photography – as I mentioned above, positive space is discussed more frequently here – it’s actually an essential aspect of good portrait photos.
How does negative space work with portraiture?
In portraiture, negative space is the area around the main subject of your photograph. The portrait below has negative space – it is the dark area around the model. I’ve highlighted it below in green so you can see exactly what I mean:
Image by Andrew S Gibson
There’s a quote in photography attributed to photojournalist Robert Capa: “If your photographs aren’t good enough, you’re not close enough.”
A lot of the time, that’s good advice – many portraits can be improved by getting in closer to the subject, either physically or with a longer lens, so the model dominates the frame. When it comes to photographing people, it also helps to get closer emotionally to your models, by establishing a rapport or connection that enables you to take deeper, more insightful portraits.
But there are also times when the environment around your model can contribute to the composition. Sometimes the subject needs room to breathe. This is when you can create an interesting image by backing off and including more negative space.
There is nothing to stop you from getting in close to your model and making a portrait, and then stepping away and including more of the environment to make use of the negative space. This is called working the subject and is the process of exploring the photographic possibilities by varying focal length, shooting distance, and other factors.
In addition to making the portrait above, I also got in close during our shoot. Here’s a close-up portrait, side-by-side with the first so you can see the difference. See how the close-up also uses negative space, just in a different way:
Images by Andrew S Gibson
Please note there is no right or wrong here, no simple rule to tell you what to do. You have to take each situation on its merits and find the best way to make a good portrait of your model. But it always helps if you keep the composition as simple as possible. In the examples here, the negative space is empty. There is detail if you look closely, but nothing to distract attention away from the model.
Why does negative space matter in photos of people?
Now that you know how to create images of people that utilize negative space, it’s also helpful to understand why negative space images are important and why you should consider incorporating at least a few into every photo session.
1. It helps emphasize scale
Image by Meredith Clark
Using negative space when you’re photographing people can help to emphasize the size of the person you’re photographing. For example, if you’re photographing a newborn and fill the frame in every image you take, you may have missed the ability to convey just how small newborn babies are relative to their surroundings.
By including varying degrees of negative space in your images, you will be better equipped to emphasize the scale of a newborn. Similarly, you could also consider using negative space images to convey how small a bride and groom are compared to the vast beach they were married on.
2. It gives your clients options
If any part of your business plan includes offering digital images to your clients, keep in mind that many of your clients will want to post the images you’ve taken on social media. Many of the popular social media platforms are not very conducive to typical “fill the frame” portraits, forcing your client to either cut off the top of their head or cut off their shoulders (leaving them looking rather like a floating head as above).
Similarly, if a client requests a certain image printed on a canvas, images with negative space allow you to accommodate that request without worrying about part of the image getting cut off by the gallery wrap. By including negative space in a few images, you’ll be giving your clients more options and less frustration!
3. It gives you options
Original shot with negative space on the left. (Image by Meredith Clark)
Not only do images with negative space give your clients flexibility, but they give you additional flexibility as the photographer.
Want to submit your image for the cover of a local magazine? Many editors want images with plenty of negative space to accommodate headline text. Want to start offering a Christmas card design to your clients? Negative space images help make that easier. Want to advertise mini sessions on Facebook? Try placing the text in the negative space of one of your favorite images.
The negative space in this image allowed me to add a text overlay.
Making an effort to utilize negative space every time you photograph people will give you more ways to use your images!
Negative space photography tips and tricks
Hopefully, you now feel ready to capture some negative space images of your own. To that end, here are my favorite tips and techniques for working with negative space:
1. Let the scene dictate your negative space and positive space combination
Every scene has a different ratio of negative space to positive space.
And while you, as the photographer, can zoom in, change perspective, and crop to emphasize certain parts of the scene, you need to be flexible; you need to be able to embrace a scene that’s full of negative space, just the same as you embrace a scene filled with positive space.
So don’t try to force a scene in a certain direction. Instead, ask yourself: What is the scene already like? And work with what you’ve got.
For example, a few years ago, I stood at a popular lookout, observing an iconic rock sitting in the Atlantic Ocean in Eastern Canada. It was early morning and some fog had rolled in, covering most of the impressive structure. The woman standing next to me turned to me and said, “It’s so sad, we’re driving by today, and I wanted to get a photo of the Percé Rock. But due to the fog, it seems it won’t be possible.”
She left, disappointed that she didn’t get her shot. But I stayed, and I stood for a long time, examining the fog and the way it draped the rock like a heavy blanket. I thought it was one of the most amazing things to happen that day. I felt so lucky to be there at that exact moment to capture the wonder unfolding. I embraced the negative space, and I captured a beautiful, minimalistic image.
Bottom line:
Be adaptable. Be flexible. If negative space dominates a scene, let it, even if you generally prefer to avoid minimalistic compositions. Make sense?
2. Use negative space to balance out positive space
A key goal of photographic composition is to achieve visual balance. You want your images to feel whole, complete, satisfying.
And one way to achieve balance is by identifying your positive space, then countering it with negative space.
For instance, look at the image below. You can see the positive space – the clenched fist. It’s a powerful, eye-catching subject, but it’s countered by all the surrounding negative space. It creates an overall balance, as you can see:
By the way, it’s important to recognize how lots of negative space can balance out just a little positive space. Positive space is aggressive and powerful. Negative space is much more subdued, even soothing. So unless you’re specifically after a very in-your-face image, positive space should come in small doses.
Some photographers practice a “2:1” negative space rule, where you add two parts negative space for every one part positive space. I don’t like to restrict myself in this way, but it’s a good guideline to bear in mind.
3. Experiment with minimalism
As I explained above, minimalistic compositions use negative space to great effect. They’re all about negative space; they take lots of negative space, include a touch of positive space, and create an eye-catching result.
Here’s an example of a minimalist image, where the shadow acts as positive space, while the bricks provide some empty negative space:
If you like the minimalistic look, I highly recommend you try it out. It’s pretty simple to pull off.
Here are my recommendations:
Start by identifying a main subject, like a tree, a person, or a building. This will be your positive space.
Adjust your positive, focal length, and camera angle until your main subject is all alone, surrounded by nothing but negative space. (A low perspective is great for this; by dropping down to the ground, you can frame your subject against the sky.)
Eliminate as much color as possible. You want uniformity, if you can get it: just one or two colors in a highly harmonious scene.
Position your main subject toward the edge of the composition. You can try putting the subject at a rule of thirds power point or along a gridline, but you might also consider moving it closer to the edge of the frame.
The tree photo below is highly minimalistic. It includes a small tree positioned in the corner as positive space, while the rest of the photo is (for the most part) negative space, for a nice overall balance.
4. Use negative space to convey emotion
Negative space tends to be bleak, even melancholy, especially in black and white images.
Use thisfact. Tell a story with your composition – a story that’s laced with sadness, or loneliness, or quiet pleasure.
Of course, you should let the scene guide you, as I emphasized above. But you can also carefully add more negative space to your composition by zooming out, or by finding a uniquely empty background, etc.
Check out this negative-space-filled image. Is it full of emotion?
Yes, it’s an emotional shot, at least to my eye. The empty sky, sprinkled with a bit of positive space, tells a captivating, haunting story.
5. Look to the sky
Finding lots of negative space in a scene can sometimes be a challenge. But if you feel your composition lacks negative space, you might just need to look up.
The sky, with its generally flat appearance, provides an excellent canvas for negative space, and it can certainly help push the viewer’s attention toward your subject. In other words, the sky isn’t intrusive or distracting; it’s just there, and it can effectively balance out the positive space in your compositions.
How do you bring more sky into your shot? Try changing your angle. Get down low. Aim your camera upward. Suddenly, the sky becomes a major part of your composition, and an ordinary snapshot becomes something far more interesting.
This technique can turn a crowded, messy street scene into a calm, serene image, and it can make a flower in a field seem profound and significant. So next time you’re struggling with negative space, remember to look to the sky. It’s always there, just waiting to help you create that perfect photograph.
6. Try a black-and-white conversion
Did you know that black-and-white tones can transform your images? It’s true! A black-and-white conversion can take what counts as positive space and turn it into negative space.
You see, when you work with colors, certain areas feature a variety of hues, which generally ensures they appear as positive space. But strip away those colors, and suddenly, you’re left with a lot of near-identical grays – and an abundance of negative space.
In other words, by converting a shot to black and white, distracting colors vanish. This can turn a once chaotic area into a serene negative space, adding a whole new layer of elegance to your image.
Of course, this technique doesn’t work every time. It depends on the existing tones in the photograph. But when it does work, the results can be breathtaking. Minimalistic black-and-white images, brimming with negative space, have a timeless appeal that’s hard to resist.
7. Eliminate distractions
Imagine capturing a perfect scene, only to notice a stray object in the background later.
Distractions can ruin a composition. They draw attention away from the subject and clutter the image, leaving the viewer’s eye confused and wandering. In negative space photography, this can be especially detrimental.
You see, distractions always add positive space to an image. They interrupt the emphasis on the subject that negative space aims to create. Whether you’re going for a minimalistic image or a balanced composition, distractions can throw everything off-kilter.
Before you press that shutter button, take a moment to scan the entire frame. Look for anything that doesn’t belong and adjust your composition to exclude it. This might mean changing your angle, repositioning your camera, or waiting for the right moment. With a distraction-free frame, you’ll be more likely to achieve that perfect harmony between positive and negative space.
8. Go wide
Ever felt constrained by your lens?
Wide-angle lenses open up a new world of possibilities. They expand your field of view, allowing you to include vast backgrounds filled with negative space. Imagine a landscape with a lone tree, backed by a seemingly endless sky. Or imagine a few flowers in a field, backed by a stretch of grass that goes on forever. That’s what a wide-angle perspective can capture.
But what if you don’t have a wide-angle lens? Don’t worry; you can still capture the same effect. Simply take some steps back, find a new vantage point, and shoot from there. It might take a bit of trial and error, but with some patience, you’ll find the right spot.
Wide-angle or not, going wide with negative space can lend your images a sense of grandeur and simplicity. It’ll emphasize the subject while creating a wonderful sense of scale.
9. Share your photos on Instagram
Sharing your work is a rewarding part of the creative process, and I think that Instagram is an excellent platform for showcasing negative space photography.
Why does negative space work so well on Instagram?
Well, the simplicity of negative space captures the viewer’s attention. Instagram, being a platform generally viewed on phones, presents images briefly as users scroll through their feeds. Photos that have lots of negative space are simpler to process, allowing even a casual viewer to be stunned by the thumbnail-sized file.
Basically, negative space adds an artistic touch that stands out in the fast-paced world of social media. Your followers will appreciate the ease with which they can understand and connect with the image.
And consider using specific hashtags that cater to negative space and minimalism. Engage with communities that appreciate this style. You’ll be surprised at the connections you can make and the feedback you can gain!
Negative space photography: final words
Photography is a world filled with endless possibilities, and negative space is one powerful tool in your creative arsenal. By now, you should have a rich understanding of what negative space is and how it can be applied across various genres of photography.
Remember, negative space isn’t limited to minimalistic shots. It’s a way to direct the viewer’s attention, create harmony, and even tell a deeper story within your images. Whether you’re capturing breathtaking landscapes, engaging street scenes, or intimate portraits, negative space can be a subtle yet profound element to explore.
I encourage you to consider this the next time you go out shooting. Incorporating negative space into your images can be very rewarding, though it can also be quite challenging. Sometimes situations will present themselves where a solid approach is clear. Other times you will have to get creative with a subject to find the proper framing to create an image with lots of negative space.
Don’t be afraid to share your work on platforms like Instagram, where your negative space photography can resonate with viewers. From landscapes to street photography, negative space has its place, and even in genres that focus more on positive space, there’s room for experimentation.
So remember this article. Memorize the advice. And good luck!
Now over to you:
What do you think about negative space? Do you plan to use it in your images? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
A note on authorship: This article was updated in November 2023 with the contributions of three expert impressionist photographers: Eva Polak, Anne McKinnell, and Erin Fitzgibbon.
Unlike conventional photography – which focuses on capturing crisp and detailed images – impressionist photography challenges us to see the world through a different lens, one that is less concerned with sharpness and more with the emotional and visual impact. Impressionist photos aren’t just about what is directly in front of the camera, but about the story you choose to tell through colors, shapes, and even blur.
I love capturing impressionistic shots, and in this article, I share the techniques that’ll allow you to paint with your camera – so you can create the kind of artwork that resonates deep down. My methods encourage you to embrace movement, play with focus, and celebrate abstraction.
So whether you’re a seasoned photographer looking to break the mold or a beginner eager to explore, prepare to capture some amazing images!
What is impressionist photography?
Impressionist photography is a style where the photographer tries to convey the feeling or suggestion of a scene, rather than a literal description. In other words, it’s about capturing a scene’s overall atmosphere by presenting the essence of a subject through shapes and colors rather than sharp, realistic representations.
In impressionist and abstract photography, the focus is on eliciting emotion through the interplay of texture, form, and color. This style encourages the use of vibrant hues, distinct shapes, and lines to craft visually stimulating compositions.
Imagine briefly observing a scene and then turning away before your eyes can fully comprehend the details. What remains is a vague memory of colors and forms, a distilled essence of the original scene – and that is what impressionist photography is all about.
Tips for amazing impressionist images
Ready to start capturing some stunning impressionist photos of your own? Here are the tips and techniques to get you started!
1. Look for shapes, patterns and textures
As you go about your daily activities, notice the shapes around you. Even a standard house or apartment is full of interesting shapes, patterns, and textures that can be used to make impressionist photos.
Look closely at different objects around you and consider whether there are any reoccurring shapes or themes. Then use them to your advantage.
Lines, for instance, can be used very effectively in a photograph, as the eye will tend to follow them through the shot. Look at the undulating pattern the wave makes as it comes to shore:
And if you like to walk in the city, look for patterns formed by the buildings.
Basically, the more interplay of form you can find, the better!
2. Use intentional camera movement
Intentional camera movement is an excellent technique for creating impressionist landscape photography, especially when you’re faced with prominent lines, such as the horizontal expanse of a beach or tall trees in a forest.
The method requires practice to master, but the process is part of the creative enjoyment, and each shot is practically guaranteed to produce unique results. Here’s what I recommend:
Set your camera to Shutter Priority mode.
Select a slow shutter speed between 1/20s and 1/2s.
Aim your camera at the center of the scene, and press the shutter button halfway to set the exposure.
Pan your camera so it moves parallel to any dominant lines in the scene.
While panning, fully depress the shutter button. Continue the motion even after the shutter has closed for a fluid effect.
Experiment with different shutter speeds for different results!
3. Look for reflections
Reflections are one of the best ways to create impressionist photography – and if you look carefully, you’ll see they are everywhere.
As you walk around, seek out smooth surfaces. Think about how you can use each surface to capture a viewpoint that you simply couldn’t have shot otherwise.
Pay special attention to colorful reflections in rain-soaked streets; they will create shimmering scenes with an impressionistic quality.
Also, lakes and rivers can create some wonderful reflective surfaces.
And always bear in mind that when a surface is textured or shaped, unusual and interesting reflections can appear.
4. Try zooming
A zoom burst, or zoom blur, is another technique that is simple, fun, and easy to achieve. It involves changing the focal length of your lens (zooming in or out) while you take a photo, causing the shot to blur from the center outward, as if the scene is bursting toward you.
To use this technique, you’ll need a camera with a zoom lens (one that includes a zoom ring). Set your camera to Shutter Priority, and dial in a shutter speed of around 1/10s.
Compose your photo as you normally would, then zoom the lens as you press the shutter. The key to success with this technique is to get the amount of zoom burst right. Experiment with zooming speed and direction, and also experiment with different shutter speeds.
5. Use selective focus
Selective focus involves isolating a small portion of your frame to be in sharp focus while letting the remainder of the image be rendered in a soft, painterly manner. This technique is most effective when using a lens with a wide aperture (for example, f/1.8 or f/2.8).
For optimal results, use a telephoto lens to zoom in on the point of interest, or grab a macro lens and get up close to your subject.
Set your camera to Aperture Priority mode and choose the widest aperture available. Manual focus may be necessary to ensure the desired area of the frame is in sharp focus.
(Pro tip: For particularly striking results, include vibrant colors in the frame!)
6. Deliberately defocus your lens
Pulling the lens out of focus is a quick way to give a scene an impressionistic look, like this:
Then switch your lens to manual focus and start looking at things through the camera. Turn the focus ring until everything is blurry.
And try varying the point of focus; this will create different amounts of blur, which can suit different subjects.
7. Use the focus-through technique
Image by Anne McKinnell
This technique is especially effective with flowers due to their semi-translucent nature, which allows light to pass through them. To execute it effectively, focus your lens on a flower that is a few feet away while positioning another flower so close to the lens that it becomes impossible to focus on.
This creates a layered effect, with the foreground flower providing a colorful, blurred overlay that frames the sharply focused flower in the distance.
A few more tips for this impressionist technique:
Employ a telephoto lens to ensure a decent amount of foreground blur
Choose a semi-transparent object to place near the front of the lens (rather than a fully opaque object)
Use manual focus to prevent your camera from mistakenly focusing on the foreground object
Image by Anne McKinnell
8. Have fun with panning
Panning is a fun technique to learn, and although it takes some practice, it’s relatively easy to get started. You can use panning to capture running people, bicycles, cars, or just about anything else that’s moving.
Once you’ve chosen a moving subject, set your camera to Shutter Priority mode, and choose a shutter speed between 1/10s and 1/60s. As your subject comes close, focus on it in advance and start tracking with your camera until you are confident that you are moving your lens in sync with the subject.
The trick to a successful impressionist-panning image is to find a suitable subject. Strong vibrant colors are ideal, and lines that appear throughout the frame will keep the colors distinct and separated.
How to capture impressionist photos: final words
By embracing the methods I’ve discussed, you can essentially reinterpret the world around you! Impressionist photography really does allow you to capture scenes in a way that stirs the soul and ignites the imagination. Ultimately, you can help your audience experience a world that is at once familiar and fantastically new.
Whether you seek to integrate these methods into your existing practice or you’re just dabbling for the joy of discovery, remember that the essence of photography lies in the way you see the world. Let impressionist photography be a celebration of your unique vision, a testament to the beauty that exists in the blur, and a bold statement that every scene is a canvas waiting for your distinctive touch!
Now over to you:
What methods do you plan to use to capture impressionist photos? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
What is Program mode on your camera, and when should you use it?
Program mode is one of those “odd one out” camera settings – something that most folks never try because they simply don’t understand how it can help their photography.
Yet once you get the hang of it, Program mode is actually pretty darn useful. That’s why, in this article, I aim to share everything you need to know about this mode, including:
What it actually is
How it works
How to use it for great results
So if you’re ready to become a Program mode master, then let’s get started.
What is Program mode?
The camera mode dial operates on something of a continuum. On one end, you have Manual mode, which gives you complete control over the three elements of exposure: shutter speed, aperture, and ISO. On the other end, you have Auto mode, which gives you almost no control over exposure.
As you can see in the diagram above, other modes exist in the middle of the spectrum. These modes – Shutter Priority, Aperture Priority, and Program mode – give you some degree of control, but your camera does significant work, as well. For instance, Aperture Priority lets you control the aperture and ISO while the camera determines the proper shutter speed for a good exposure.
So what about Program mode? What does it do?
Program mode exists somewhere between Aperture/Shutter Priority and Auto mode, and it works like this:
You set the ISO, while your camera sets the aperture and shutter speed.
(Remember: The ISO refers to the sensitivity of your camera sensor, the aperture refers to the lens diaphragm size, and the shutter speed refers to the length of time the shutter captures light.)
Program mode also gives you control over other camera features, such as exposure compensation, but I’ll discuss that in a later section. For now, just remember that Program mode gives you ISO control, but leaves the aperture and shutter speed up to your camera.
(In fact, Program mode is sometimes referred to as “ISO Priority.”)
When is Program mode useful?
While Program mode isn’t nearly as popular as Aperture Priority or Shutter Priority, it can make a big difference to your photography – you just have to know when to use it.
In essence, Program mode works best when you care about the ISO, but you don’t care about the shutter speed and the aperture. This is either because you know that your camera will automatically give sufficient shutter speed and aperture values or because these settings won’t affect the final result in a meaningful way.
So if you’re shooting outdoors and you want to produce minimal noise in your photos, you might select Program mode, dial in a low ISO, and then let your camera do the rest.
I shot this using Program mode, which let me tweak my exposure settings on the fly.
Or if you’re photographing under powerful artificial lights, you might tell your camera to keep the ISO low, then trust it to nail the remaining exposure variables.
Bottom line:
If all you want to do is adjust the ISO, you’re set. Put your camera in Program mode, change the ISO, and focus on composing and framing your shots rather than thinking about the aperture, shutter speed, and overall exposure.
But that’s not Program mode’s only use. You see, Program mode is also a great transition mode. If you’re aiming to improve your photography skills but you’re still stuck on Auto mode, you might try leveling up to Program mode; you can then use it as a stepping stone to Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, and beyond.
How to shoot in Program mode
Back in the 35mm film days, you would often choose the film you used based on the shooting conditions you planned to work in.
ISO (or before that, ASA or DIN) was a function of the film. ASA speeds of common film types might be 25, 64, 125, 200, 400, and maybe up to 800. You could go a little higher with special processing. The rub was that, whatever film type you chose, you worked with the same ASA for the entire roll (be it 12, 24, or 36 exposures).
With film, you had to stick with the same ISO (ASA) for the entire roll. (Image by Rick Ohnsman)
Working with Program mode can be a little like shooting film – in that the first thing you do is pick your ISO setting.
This could be ISO 100 for good outdoor light, ISO 200 or 400 for lower lighting conditions, and ISO 800 or higher for dim conditions (or perhaps for when you will be shooting action and need to use fast shutter speeds).
Some photographers call Program mode “ISO Priority,” because once you dial in the ISO, it will remain set, even as the shutter speed and aperture change. (Of course, the big difference from film is that you can change the ISO from shot to shot if you so choose).
So you start by setting your ISO.
Then, unless you have a special reason not to, I suggest you use the averaging metering modes: Evaluative on Canon, Matrix on Nikon. These will consider the entire image and calculate the exposure.
If your camera is set to Program mode, you will now see that it has selected both aperture and shutter speed settings. Depending on the available light, these will usually be toward the middle of the settings range – perhaps something like 1/125s and f/5.6. You may want to change these, and we’ll get into that in a minute, but if not, you’re good to go. Nail the focus and take the shot.
You can shoot all day like this, with your camera pretty much working as a point-and-shoot machine. As a beginner, rather than puzzle over what your settings should be for each shot, you can use Program mode to concentrate on more important things – chiefly composition – and let the camera figure out the exposure. Take away the clutch and the gearshift, and driving is so much easier, right?
Program mode: beyond the basics
At this point, you should be comfortable with the Program mode basics: You set the ISO, and your camera does the rest.
But if you dig a little deeper, you’ll find more useful features to unlock. Many of these can help you get the shot you want, instead of the shot your camera thinks you want. In this way, Program mode is like the late-night infomercial version of Auto; it handles all the nitty-gritty complicated stuff for you, but ends with a “Wait, there’s more!”
First, Program mode allows you to use exposure compensation to correct any exposure mistakes. By adjusting the exposure compensation in one direction, you can force your camera to take brighter images, and by adjusting it in the other direction, you’ll get the reverse.
Say you take a photo of snow and it turns out too dark. With a little exposure compensation, you can bring back the snow’s natural brightness (note that you can’t do that in Auto mode).
And you can adjust plenty of other camera settings while in Program mode, including white balance, metering mode (full/center/spot), point of focus, and whether your camera should use its flash.
(Contrast this with Auto mode, and you should start to see the usefulness of the humble little “P” marker on your camera’s mode dial.)
Of course, Program mode isn’t always the way to go. Sometimes, you’ll want to independently adjust your shutter speed or your aperture, in which case one of the Priority options, or even Manual mode, is the right choice.
But when ISO is all that matters, give Program mode a try.
Shooting in Program mode gave me a good overall exposure, but I didn’t like how the microphone was so dark.
I switched to spot metering, retook the shot, and got what I wanted. Program allows for this flexibility, whereas Auto does not!
Program Shift and some Program mode examples
You now know that Program mode allows you to set the ISO while your camera sets the aperture and shutter speed – but what if you want a narrower aperture and don’t mind lengthening the shutter speed? Conversely, what if you want a faster shutter speed and don’t mind widening the aperture?
That’s where Program Shift comes into play. This option lets you adjust the aperture and the shutter speed together – so the exposure doesn’t change, but the specific settings allowing you to achieve the exposure do.
The specifics for how to use Program Shift depend on your camera model, but I’d like to walk you through an example scenario where it can help you achieve top-notch results.
It’s an overcast day, so you set the ISO to 800.
Your camera is in Program mode, and it suggests an exposure.
You decide you want a deeper depth of field, so you use Program Shift to set the aperture to f/22.
Your settings are now ISO 800, 1/20s, and f/22. (Note that you’ll need to be on a tripod if you’re using a 1/20s shutter speed.)
You focus, then take the shot.
Image by Rick Ohnsman
You take a look and decide it might be better to isolate the foreground leaves with a shallow depth of field. Still in Program mode, you use Program Shift to put the aperture at f/4. Your camera automatically adjusts the shutter speed to 1/640s to maintain proper exposure. You take another shot.
Image by Rick Ohnsman
Easy, huh? The ISO stayed locked in at 800, and as you adjusted the aperture, the shutter speed adjusted itself.
Suppose now you want to see the effect of shutter speed on a moving object. Still in Program mode, you leave the ISO at 800. To freeze the droplets of a fountain, you use Program Shift to set a 1/1600s shutter speed. You take the shot.
Note how the top shot, taken at 1/50s, has more blurred water drops; also note how the tree is sharper at f/22. The bottom image, taken at 1/1600s, displays frozen water – but at f/4, the depth of field is smaller. (Image by Rick Ohnsman)
Now, what if you want to get a little motion blur on those drops? Use Program Shift to set a slower shutter speed of 1/50s. The aperture automatically adjusts.
(Exposure compensation is also an option should you need to make your images a little lighter or darker.)
Then make the leap
Program mode can help you get good exposures. And if you pay attention to the settings your camera chooses, you’ll begin to understand the relationship between aperture, depth of field, shutter speed, and motion capture. Program mode can also give you a good jumping-off point to work with a mode such as Aperture Priority.
Say that after making a shot in Program mode, you see the camera chose f/11 as the aperture, and you like the amount of depth of field that resulted. You can then switch over to Aperture Priority mode (Av on Canon, A on Nikon), dial in an f/11 aperture, and start shooting. The camera will stay locked at f/11 while adjusting the shutter speed for various lighting conditions.
The same goes for shutter speed. If your Program mode shot shows a nice amount of motion blur at 1/5s and you want to make subsequent images with that amount of blur, switch to Shutter Priority mode (Tv on Canon, S on Nikon), dial in 1/5s, and shoot away.
The camera will stay locked on the shutter speed you chose and alter the aperture as needed.
In the left photo, the focus is on the tree trunk at the right edge. At f/22, there’s a good amount of depth of field. In Program mode, roll the dial to take the f-stop to f/4 for less depth of field. The camera automatically compensates, putting the shutter speed at 1/160s. The exposure stays identical. (Image by Rick Ohnsman)
Back to the safe spot
If you play around enough with your settings, you may eventually mess things up so that you create a bad exposure or become totally confused about why things are not working for you. That’s when Program mode comes to the rescue.
These were some of the first images I made when I got my Canon 10D years ago. Program mode was all I knew, but it got the job done. Don’t think you have to immediately learn to shoot in Manual mode to make nice shots. (Image by Rick Ohnsman)
Put the camera in Program mode, put the ISO to a setting appropriate for your lighting situation (ISO 200 might be a good starting point), and it’ll be like hitting the reset button: you’ll be back to letting the camera choose exposure settings.
It’s easy to explore the relationship between aperture and depth of field while in Program mode. This series starts at f/4 on the left, before a roll of the dial (with Program Shift) took the aperture to f/8 (middle), and then to f/22 on the right. The camera did all the exposure calculations. As simple as one, two, three! (Image by Rick Ohnsman)
Regardless of what mode I choose to shoot in, even Manual, I always put the dial back to Program mode before turning off the camera and putting it back in my bag. Then, if that once-in-a-lifetime shot presents itself and I must grab the camera, quickly power up, and shoot, I can be assured I will get a reasonably well-exposed shot.
I hope you will not take this article to mean you shouldn’t learn to shoot in Aperture Priority mode or Manual mode, because it’s true that a great number of professionals use these settings. But if you are new to photography and are confronted with more information than you can immediately absorb, working in Program mode might just be the helping hand you need.
Working in Program mode will free you to concentrate on composition while letting the camera figure out exposure. (Image by Rick Ohnsman)
Concentrate first on learning good composition. And make sure your images are well-focused, because blurry shots are impossible to fix in editing.
For now, let your camera help you with exposure until you begin to wrap your head around all there is to know. Even if you are a more experienced photographer, you might occasionally find that turning the mode dial and working in Program mode is the right choice for a given situation.
Program mode: final words
Program mode is a handy little option, even if it’s often eclipsed by Manual, Aperture Priority, and Shutter Priority.
So the next time you don’t want to give up all control over your camera but also don’t want to do everything yourself, consider Program mode. You might ask yourself, “Do I need to adjust the aperture? And do I need to adjust the shutter speed?”
If the answer is “No,” then Program mode is probably your best option!
Now over to you:
Do you use Program mode? Do you plan to start using it? Why or why not? What do you think of it? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
If you meet a photographer, what questions should you ask them? What questions about photography will help you understand what they do? How can you use their knowledge to improve your own photography?
I’ve spent a lot of time interviewing photographers, and I’ve developed a list of essential questions for photographers that I highly recommend you commit to memory. These are the types of questions that will give you the best, most useful advice, and they’ll also help you understand how the photographer approaches their own photography.
That way, the next time you run into a photographer you admire or you simply engage with a photographer on a website or forum, you know how to come away with the most helpful information.
Let’s get started with my first question:
1. What is the one thing you wish you knew when you started taking photos?
Every photographer struggles when they start out – and improves as they gain experience. Which means that every photographer has one, or two, or even dozens of things they wished they had known at the beginning.
So it’s a great question to ask a photographer right off the bat. Plus, it’s very open-ended, so it can lead to lots of interesting tips and conversation.
2. How did you get good at photography?
No matter how skilled a photographer might be, they didn’t begin as a photographic genius. Camera settings, composition, light, post-processing; it all takes effort to master, which means that every photographer has experienced some journey.
So ask them about it. Ask them how they went from beginner status to professional (or skilled amateur, semi-professional, etc.). What did they do that helped them most? Was it reading books about photography? Photography courses? Viewing photography? Practicing? Some type of magic bean?
(Bonus: Plenty of photographers love this question, because it’s clearly flattering! So you’re likely to get a good, long, helpful answer.)
3. What essential resources do you recommend?
Every photographer has their go-to resources. These are the books, courses, or tools that they swear by. If you’re talking to a professional, don’t forget to ask them about the resources they find indispensable. This can be your shortcut to leveling up your skills.
Courses, books, documentaries, and workshops come in all shapes and sizes. Some might recommend a YouTube channel that offers quick photography hacks. Others may point you toward a comprehensive online course that dives deep into the technicalities. The point is, each photographer has their own set of recommendations that can offer you unique perspectives.
And if they’re in the photography education space, don’t be surprised if they recommend something of their own. Many of these photographers create their own courses or write books to share their expertise. This could be your chance to get an insider’s view. Learning from their curated material could provide you with tips that are hard to find elsewhere.
Bottom line: The right resources can help you refine your craft. Investing in the right books or online courses can provide you with practical skills that you can apply right away.
4. How do you get honest feedback on your work?
Feedback is a cornerstone of growth, not just in photography but in any creative endeavor. If you’ve ever wondered where to get an unbiased critique of your work, you’re not alone. Professionals have been through this and can guide you to platforms or communities where you can get constructive criticism.
Not all feedback is created equal. While friends and family might offer praise, they often lack the expertise to give you a detailed critique. Professionals can point you to online forums, photography clubs, or even specific social media groups where your work can be critically assessed.
How do you get people to be honest? There’s an art to soliciting constructive feedback, and a professional can teach you how. Maybe it’s about asking the right questions or maybe it’s about creating an environment where people feel comfortable being candid. Learn these techniques to get the most out of your feedback sessions.
5. What gear do you use?
I don’t recommend you start off with this question, because it comes off as a bit superficial; after all, it’s the photographer, not the gear, that makes great photos.
That said, gear does make a difference, and understanding a photographer’s setup can help you in two key ways:
It’ll offer recommendations for your own kit (after all, if a photographer you admire shoots with a certain lens and achieves tack-sharp images, the lens is undoubtedly capable glass!).
It’ll give you an understanding of the necessary equipment for different photography genres. For instance, a panoramic landscape photographer will need a certain type of tripod – but if you’ve never shot panoramas, you may not know this. Same with a macro photographer who uses a focusing rail, a long exposure photographer with a 10-stop neutral density filter, etc.
By the way, when you question a professional photographer about gear, don’t limit yourself to cameras and lenses. Accessories are often amazingly helpful and less well known, so I highly recommend you discuss tripods, tripod heads, filters, flashes, camera bags, and even rain covers.
6. Which lens is your favorite? Why?
This question about photography continues on the gear theme, except it attempts to understand why a photographer uses the lenses that they do – and what makes certain lenses better than others. Again, it’s worth emphasizing here that a great photographer can make images with any lens, but focal length, maximum aperture, autofocusing speed, and more can all affect your photos (potentially a lot more than you think!).
By the way, when it comes to choosing from among high-level lenses, it’s not so much about determining which lens is the sharpest. Instead, it’s about determining which lens fits your particular preferences and requirements, so that you can achieve the shots you’re after. Make sense?
7. When you go out to shoot, do you take any essential items other than a camera and lens?
Most photographers have an interesting accessory or two they can’t live without, like a cleaning kit, a portable charger, or even certain hiking boots.
And these items vary from photographer to photographer, depending on their shooting genre and style.
It can be a lot of fun to ask a photographer about their essentials. Be sure to find out why they carry the items that they do. And pretty soon, you’ll have a handful of items to add to your own gear wish list!
8. Among the photography gear that you’ve purchased, is there something you wish you hadn’t bought? Why?
It’s not a question that often comes up, which is part of what makes it interesting. As a photographer, what wouldn’t you buy?
You’ll get plenty of different answers here, and that’s great – encourage the photographer to be as broad or specific as they want. Photographers might talk about lenses that sit in their camera bag getting dusty, tripods that shake on windless days, lights that broke after five uses, or something else entirely.
Note each item, but don’t let it stop you from buying the equipment yourself; what works for one person might not work for another!
9. What are some common photography pitfalls?
We all make mistakes. In photography, some missteps can lead to poor results, but knowing what to avoid can make all the difference. So, why not ask a professional what to watch out for? The answer might just save you from falling into common traps.
Let’s talk about composition, for example. It’s easy to get caught up in the moment and snap a shot without properly framing your subject. Another common error is investing too much in gear, without dedicating equal time to learning the craft. This unbalanced approach can stall your progress significantly.
There are also more nuanced pitfalls. Some photographers get so caught up in achieving technical perfection that they forget to develop a unique style. Other mistakes are conceptual, like taking photos without a clear intent or message. These pitfalls can divert you from your artistic path.
Being aware of these mistakes isn’t just about avoidance. It’s also about knowing what to focus on for improvement. By asking this question, you’re not just collecting cautionary tales; you’re building your own guidebook for success. You’re armed with the knowledge of what not to do, which is just as valuable as knowing what to do.
Gathering advice on common pitfalls offers you a fast track to improvement. It’s like having cheat codes for a video game. You get to bypass the errors that could have slowed you down, ensuring a smoother journey in your photography career.
10. What are your favorite settings?
I recommend you leave this question open-ended because you don’t want to know the precise settings that a photographer uses every now and again; instead, you want to know the best settings for specific occasions, as well as the can’t-live-without settings a photographer always needs.
Image style (do they shoot in black and white or do they convert later?)
Button customizations
Some photographers are very particular about their settings, whereas others tend to leave things on Auto and focus on lighting, composition, and processing. So don’t push the photographer if they don’t give you much (and don’t restrict the photographer if they talk about settings for hours!).
11. What kind of tools do you use for post-processing? What’s your workflow like?
Post-processing is very unique to individual photographers, plus it can be daunting for beginners – so if you struggle in that area, it’s a key question to ask.
You might start by determining the software the photographer uses, but then dig deeper. Ask about specific tools and techniques. (Do they color grade? Do they have any favorite sliders? Do they dodge and burn?) And if they seem open to it, ask about their workflow. In other words, how do they go from start to finish on an image? What does the process look like?
Be sure to listen carefully; the key to a photographer’s style is sometimes hidden in the smallest of details!
12. Out of all your photos, which one is your favorite? Why?
Photographers generally love talking about their own work, so this is a great icebreaker question and a great way to get even the shyest of photographers talking.
It’s not a useless question, either; if you ask a photographer about their favorite work, they’ll often explain how they approached the composition, why they like the shot, and potentially even the techniques they used to create it. It’s an information goldmine!
13. How do you stay focused on your art?
In today’s digital age, external validation is everywhere. Social media has made it easier than ever to seek approval through likes and comments. But is that why you got into photography? If you ask a seasoned photographer, you’ll find they have specific methods to stay focused on their art.
Personal projects are a great example. These are the endeavors that fuel a photographer’s passion. They are not for likes or follows but for the joy and satisfaction that comes from creating something meaningful. Another strategy might be to set aside “creative time” apart from your regular shooting schedule. This is time reserved purely for experimenting and developing your artistic voice.
You might also discover that professionals use tangible tools to stay focused. Mood boards, journals, or even a dedicated workspace can serve as daily reminders of what you’re striving for. These aren’t just physical objects but symbols of your commitment to your art.
By asking this question, you open the door to strategies you might not have considered. These tactics can help you strike a balance between seeking external validation and maintaining your artistic integrity. They remind you why you picked up a camera in the first place.
14. What do you think about social media for photographers?
Ah, social media, the blessing and the curse of modern-day photography. On one hand, platforms like Instagram or Facebook can get your work out there. On the other hand, they can be massive time sinks. Getting a balance is key, and who better to ask than a professional photographer?
Different platforms suit different styles. Instagram may be great for portrait photography, while Pinterest could be more suited for showcasing landscapes. Asking a seasoned photographer about their preferred platform can give you a new perspective on where to showcase your work.
How much time should you spend on social media? The answer varies. But finding out how a professional manages their time online can offer you invaluable insights. Maybe they have a set schedule or perhaps they outsource their social media management. Whatever their strategy, it can serve as a useful reference point for you.
Of course, the big question: art or likes? Social media can skew your focus towards getting validation rather than improving your craft. It’s important to hear from someone who’s navigated these waters successfully. They can offer advice on how to maintain your artistic integrity while still engaging with an online audience.
15. Whose work has influenced you most?
Out of all the questions to ask photographers on this list, the “influence” question is the most difficult to answer – but if you have the time and the photographer is willing, it can lead to outstanding insights into their work.
See, all photographers have influences. And while most work is original to some extent, by understanding how a photographer developed, you can nail down certain aspects of their thought process, such as:
What they’re trying to say with their photography
How they approach composition
How they think about light
And asking about influences will often give you a few new photographers to follow!
Questions to ask a photographer: final words
Well, there you have it: 15 questions about photography to improve your knowledge, skills, and more.
These questions aren’t just a one-time checklist. They form a guide that you can revisit whenever you’re looking for a boost in inspiration or skill. And don’t hesitate to go back to these questions as you continue to grow and evolve in your photographic journey.
Now it’s up to you. Take these questions and go start conversations with photographers who inspire you. Your passion, combined with their wisdom, can lead to remarkable growth. These dialogues could very well be the catalyst for taking your photography to the next level.
Now over to you:
Do you have any key questions to ask photographers that I missed? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
About the author: Anees K Ais a photography enthusiast who likes to explore the wild. He tweets as @aneeskA.
